Lungeing Your Horse

One of the best ways to let out some excess energy from your horse before you ride is to longe him. This will help you see how your horse is going to react before you even step a foot in the stirrup. If you have a small corral or round pen, you can send the horse around without a rope. Have him walk, trot, lope and then work back down. You may also have him do some turns to limber him up. Sometimes horses that are excited to be out or who are tight will explode into a buck as soon as you get on. Longeing will give him the opportunity to get any of that out of his system.

When you longe the horse, you don’t want to be just chasing him around the pen. You will want him to follow the pressure off of the longe line and drive him with your body behind his shoulder. You also want your horse to longe properly. For example, if the horse is going around to the right, you want him to have his nose tipped to the right, not the left. You also want to be sure that his eyes are focused on where he is going and that he is not looking in the other direction. You will be able to tell where the horse is looking depending on whether or not you can see any white of his inside eye.

When you are longeing your horse, you will want to direct the horse with the hand of the direction that your horse is going. If your horse is going to the left, then you will want to direct him with the left hand. Standing behind his shoulder will drive him forward and you will use your other hand to help drive. You may twirl the end of the rope or wave your arm up and down in the air. Stepping in front of the shoulder will encourage the horse to slow down and stop.

You will also be able to make him change directions as well. Apply pressure to the halter with the rope in the opposite direction and with the opposite hand. Your horse will turn and go the other way. For many horses, turning can be difficult. Many horses prefer to go in one direction and they may fight you about going the other direction. These horses just need practice and patience. Keep working with him on following the pressure of the rope and driving him from behind his shoulder. These horses may also need a tap on the rear with the end of the rope.

When your horse begins to feel comfortable and starts to anticipate when you are going to turn him, mix it up a bit and turn him in different parts of the pen. After the horse is comfortable and turning well, give him a well-deserved break. Then direct him again and drive him some more. Eventually, you may not even have to feel like you are driving the horse and they will work around you in the circle, but you still want to be an active participant and get a feel for your horse. After ten to fifteen minutes of longeing, your horse should be limber enough and mentally prepared for a ride.

By Ron Petracek

Ron Petracek - Raised in southern Idaho, Ron loves horses and the outdoors. If you would like to join in and learn from the vast resources at our equine forum please visit http://www.horsechitchat.com Looking to buy sell or trade something equine related? Just visit our huge network and get 12 sites for Free! Click here => http://www.Click4equine.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ron_Petracek

Read More..

How Much Food Is The Right Amount For Your Horse?

Though it would certainly be nice if there was a full proof template for feeding a horse, unfortunately one does not exist. Simply put, you have to take these things on a case by case basis. There are many different factors that can impact how much food a horse needs. Obviously, a horse that goes through a lot of activity will need more food than one that just sits around.

Not only will all horses have different needs for how much food they ingest, but they will also have different likes and dislikes about their food. It is important to always keep a finger on the pulse of your animal’s temperament. Find out what kind of foods it likes and what foods it does not like. When you do this, you will be able to pinpoint the foods that are easier for your horse to ingest.

It is no coincidence that most horses take much better to more expensive foods. The more expensive foods are made with better ingredients and they are easier to swallow and digest. Play to your horse’s desire for this food and make sure to buy the good stuff. More times than not, cheap food won’t taste good to the horses and they may or may not continue eating it. Even if they do, the cheap food will cause lots of health problems over the course of time. You might save a little bit of money in the short run with cheap food, but in the long run, you will lose out big time. Cheap food has a tendency to become musty and moldy, and could cause your horse to develop respiratory issues. Most horses will let you know this, though. They simply won’t eat the cheap stuff in huge quantities.

Depending upon how big your horse is, he will need a varying amount of hay. Large horses of around 1,200 pounds, for example, need around twenty pounds of hay each day all year long. Smaller horses, on the other hand, could require a little bit less hay in order to maintain their weight and keep performing at a high level. If you want to insure the horse’s performance and health through the winter, be sure to give them a little bit of extra hay. This will enable the horse to maintain its full body weight.

Horse owners should not always go with that rule, though. There are times when it is not appropriate to change a horse’s diet with the seasons. If the horse seems to be maintaining its weight well and performing at a high level with the same diet, then don’t make any huge changes. Always keep your eye out for any extreme weight loss, though.

Horses are an interesting kind of animal in that they eat a huge percentage of their overall body weight each day. An average horse will need to eat 1%-2% of their total body weight each day. Keep that in mind when providing food for your horse.

By Patricia Reszetylo

Patricia Reszetylo has been a “horse crazy kid” since 1978. She now operates EquineTeleseminar.net, where she interviews other equestrians on a variety of horse health, training and equine business topics “By Request”. Visit http://EquineTeleseminar.net/free.htm for your own free copy of a telepak (audio and transcript) from the most popular horse health call of 2006. You don’t want to miss out on this important information!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Patricia_Reszetylo

Read More..

Choosing the Right Horse - It Can Be a Match Made in Heaven!

We all have those visions in our heads of the perfect horse. Maybe it's a 16-hand palomino mare with a snip and two socks and a beautiful, wavy blond mane and tail. Maybe it's a well-muscled solid black gelding with just the smallest of stars . . .

So why don't we ever end up with it? Well, probably for good reason. Is it possible to find the perfect horse for you? You can certainly get darn close. But will he look like the vision you've carried in your head since childhood? Doubtful. If you want to find the right horse for you, you are going to have to do a lot more than go on looks alone.

Finding the right horse is hard. There are lots of horses out there for sale, and it's not always easy to determine that a horse will fit your needs in the limited amount of time you spend considering him. However, if you follow a few simple rules you can make sure that the horse you end up buying is the right horse for you.

• Deal only with reputable sellers. Ask friends, family, and fellow riders for recommendations of good sellers to deal with. An honest, reliable seller will make a considerable difference in your horse buying experience.

• Determine your discipline. No matter how much you love the leggy Thoroughbred you saw last week, if your discipline of choice is barrel racing he might not be the best choice. Know what type of conformation and attitude suits the discipline you enjoy, and look only at like horses.

• Know your strengths and weaknesses. Your horse should make up for your deficiencies, and you should make up for his. For example, if you are a beginner rider, you are going to need an expert horse to show you the ropes. But if you are an expert rider, you might enjoy working with a green horse. Don't forget to consider personality as well. If you are a timid rider, for example, you will do much better with a confident horse.

• Enlist the help of a knowledgeable friend. Sometimes you get so caught up one aspect of a horse—say his bloodlines—that you can't see past it. A knowledgeable horse person—a friend, instructor, or trainer—will notice things that you don't. It never hurts to have a few pair of eyes look a potential horse over.

• Ask lots of questions. Make a list of questions about behavior, performance, and health, and bring them with you when you visit the barn. If the owner declines to answer a question, consider it a red flag!

• Handle the horse yourself. Ask if you can groom the horse, handle him in crossties, load him on a trailer, or anything else you see yourself doing with the horse on a regular basis. Never buy a horse without knowing that you are comfortable handling him.

• Ask to see the horse ridden. Have the owner or trainer ride the horse before you do. That way you will be able to better gauge his performance level and potential.

• Take the horse for a test ride. You'll want to do this at least once, preferably two or three times, to determine whether you like the way the horse goes. If you are an inexperienced rider having your trainer or riding instructor ride the horse will also give you a good sense of what your horse is capable of.

• Have the horse vet checked. If you love the horse and want to buy him, make sure that your contract stipulates that the horse must pass a vet check in order for the sale to be final.

• Ask the seller about a trial period. Some sellers, particularly those who are concerned that their horses go to the right buyers, allow a horse to be returned within a specific number of days if things don't work out.

Good luck finding the perfect horse! And check out the great resources below for more information on equine information.

Hope that Helps..

By Ron Petracek

Ron Petracek - Raised in southern Idaho, Ron loves horses and the outdoors. If you would like to join in and learn from the vast resources at our equine forum please visit http://www.horsechitchat.com Looking to buy sell or trade something equine realted? Just visit our huge network and get 12 sites for Free! Click here => http://www.Click4equine.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ron_Petracek

Read More..

Learn About Horse Blankets - Does Your Horse Need A Blanket?

A horse blanket is for protecting your horse from the elements. To keep your horse warm, protected from the rain, wind, heat and sun. They are tailored to fit around your horse's body with straps crossing underneath, allowing your horse to move about freely without dislodging the blanket.

The traditional horse blanket is a woven blanket, usually made of wool. Modern blankets are much warmer and resistant to weather than traditional wool blankets, using inner and outer shells with an insulating fiber between. Outer shells are usually made of synthetics which are water repellent and windproof, while the inner lining is smoother than wool so it won’t chafe against your horse’s skin. The filling between them provides warmth with much less bulk than older blankets. This means the overall blanket is light enough not to flatten your horse’s coat, and is more durable than their wool or cotton predecessors.

Another type of horse blanket, the Cooler blanket is a square blanket with ties that is draped over your horse if it is hot and sweaty after a workout, or has just been bathed and is wet all over. It is kept on while your horse is being cooled down as it allows enough air circulation for your horse to dry, and prevents chills and drafts.

Horse blankets are sometimes used to keep your horse's hair short. Blankets also protect horses that are kept with a short coat for show purposes.

In summer a lightweight blanket may be used to help your horse ward off flies and to prevent the hair coat from bleaching out. These blankets are usually referred to as a "sheet" or a "fly sheet". Usually they are made of nylon or strong synthetic fiber with the capacity to "breathe" so that your horse can remain cool.

If your horse is given a full body clip, or even a partial clip, it is recommended a blanket be kept on at all times if the weather is cool because your horse no longer has the natural insulation of a longer hair coat. If a blanket is put on your horse at the beginning of winter in order to suppress the growth of a winter coat, or if your horse is kept clipped in cold weather, the blanket must stay on until warmer weather arrives. If your horse is subjected to cold weather without either a horse blanket or a natural hair coat to keep it warm, it is far more vulnerable to sickness and ill health.

It is important to choose a blanket that is appropriate to how much extra protection from the weather that your horse genuinely needs.

Make sure that the blanket fits your horse properly, regardless of the blanket type. A blanket that is too tight will irritate the skin and put your horse at risk of developing abrasions and sores, while a blanket that is too large can slip down under your horse’s belly. Not only will that result in the loss of almost all the blanket’s insulating ability, if your horse gets its legs tangled in the blanket’s straps, it can be seriously injured. Putting the blanket on properly also helps to ensure a good fit.

It is best for each horse to have its own blanket. Sharing blankets can lead to the spread of skin problems such as girth itch, ringworm, and other fungal infections. Even if no horses in the stable have known skin problems, fungal spores can cling to the blankets and be spread to other horses.

Does your horse need a blanket?

By Bryan Thorby

Check out the horse blanket information and resources provided by
Bryan Thorby at http://www.pet-lovers-info.com

Your Horse may love you for it. Also links to other fine equestrian products, books and magazines.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bryan_Thorby

Read More..

Beginners Guide To Horse Trailers

Horse trailers are also known by the name horse float in New Zealand and Australia. Horse trailers are mainly used for the transportation of horses. These horse trailers come in various designs. In addition, these horse trailers have varying sizes. Horse trailers range from the small units, which have the capability of holding a couple or three horses to the designs that have the shape of a gooseneck, which have the capability of carrying as much as eight to six horses. The horse trailers need to be such that, they can be easily pulled up by an SUV or a pickup truck. These horse trailers are mostly pulled with the help of a dually style pickings, which have a weight of 1 ton. Apart from these horse trailers, there are semi-trailers which have the capability of hauling a large quantity of animals.

Horse Trailers – In depth:

Horse trailers come in various budgets. The stock trailer is the least expensive amongst them. The stock trailers are basically those types of horse trailers, which are mostly enclosed at their bottom part. Contrary to this, they contain slats which are approximately at the level of eye, that help in the ventilation process, so that the animals which are hauled are able to breathe easily. Horse trailers need not be necessarily horse specific. But those horse trailers, which are specially designed by taking the horses into consideration, are more elaborate in nature. The main principle involved in the construction of the horse trailers is the fact that, the hauling process of the horses need not cause any form of harm to the animal. In short, the horses which are hauled by the horse trailers need to be in a good condition, even after the completion of the hauling process. The other reason why the horse trailers need to be elaborate is the fact that, horses are mainly hauled for the competitive purposes and no relaxation facility is inbuilt in the horse trailer. Horse trailers contain windows and adjustable vents, apart from the suspension. These horse trailers are mostly designed for providing less stress and smooth ride to the animals in general and horses in particular.

Horse Trailers Purchase:

Prior to the purchase of horse trailers, certain parameters need to be kept in mind. The main thing involved is that the horse trailers selected need to be of a good quality and relatively safe. In addition, only those horse trailers need to be selected, which can help in the satisfaction of the needs and requirements of the horses. Hence, the main factor which needs to be considered is the horse itself. A prospective purchaser of horse trailers need to consider the fact that, the horses are of claustrophobic nature. Hence, those horse trailers which contain plenty of ventilation, light and room would help in the creation of lesser amounts of stress to the hauled horse. Horse trailers which help in the easy loading and the travel of the horse need to be given more preference.

By Dave Demink

Dave DeMink is a leading informational author and operates the web site which provides information on used horse trailers, steel horse trailers and featherlite horse trailers.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dave_Demink

Read More..

Horses - Horse Riding Tips

Horse riding is one of those activities that move quickly from being a hobby to becoming a real passion. Horse activities have been shown to benefit children, people with disabilities and those who need to gain confidence in their athletic abilities. It provides a social venue as well as an intensely satisfying human-equine relationship, that affects personal discipline as well as relatedness and tends to make people happier and more functional in other areas of their lives.

In this article I will give you a few basic tips to bear in mind when enjoying your horse riding:

First of all you really need to get to know everything about your horse - your horse personality, likes/dislikes, etc.. One of the most important things is to make a bond with them. You need to be able to trust your horse, and your horse needs to be able to trust you. Therefore spend lots of time with your horse, just to be around her - groom her, go into her stall and just pet her for a while, or whatever you feel comfortable doing. This basic connection is important because the horse then will be able to trust you later on, when you are riding her, and the horse will be more willing to work with you. It also allows you to bond with her, and get to know what she's actually like. Just spend every day with her for a while like this.

After you and your horse know each other better, you should start some ground training. You need to be able to get respect from your horse on the ground before you even hop onto her back. Try some simple exercises such as making your horse back up, move forward, and to the side with just a push of your hand. Lunge your horse, making sure she obeys your commands the minute you give them to her. Do some kind of ground work every time before you ride, so she will trust you when you get on her back.

When you have the trust from your horse you are now able to begin your riding training, and here are some basic Tips about your horse riding:

1. Rule number one in horseback riding is keep your heels down, because this make you much more secure.

2. Rule number two is.... keep your head and shoulders up and sit straight up and down or lean slightly back, because this puts you in a secure position for riding.

3. If your horse is going strong on the forehand or is lazy, you might want to try leaning back a little with your shoulders behind the perpendicular. This will make your seat stronger and push your horse forward into better movement.

4. My last tip is properly the most important advice about horse riding…..I definitely suggest that you right from the beginning start to take riding lessons with an instructor. Riding instructors will teach you proper riding techniques, ground handling, etc... that will benefit you very much, so you don’t from the start build in bad habits with your horse riding.

------------------------------------------------------------------

Have Fun with your Horse and Horse Riding.

By Morten Hansen

About the Author

Morten Hansen has been focused on the Horse area for several years and is mainly writing about subjects, that make it easier for people to work with and enjoy Horses. For more details about different kind of subjects relating to Horses visit our website www.HorseTips4you.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Morten_Hansen

Read More..

Horse Health And Stabling

When looking for stabling what is important to consider is the actual structure and environment of the stable. The best way to choose a stable for your horse is to know some basic facts and then to actually visit stable in your area to get a comparison.

There are basic items that every stable horse should have. When visiting a yard keep these items in mind to ensure that your horse will be well cared for. A neglected stable horse can result in a costly veterinarian bill.

From the moment you drive into a yard, your eyes should be on the lookout. What does the fencing look like? Is it well maintained and safe for a horse? Is the property and fields securely gated? Are the horses content in the fields or are there too many horses in one field?

When you enter a yard is your presence noted? Is there some one to assist you or some one taking care of the horses? It is advisable to call before visiting a yard especially if you visit during lunch when most of the staff may not be in the yard.

What do the stables look like? Are they well maintained with no loose nails, broken doors, uneven and badly cracked surfaces? Is the stable a comfortable size for your horse?

Do the stables have good ventilation and fresh air circulating? Are the stables well lit with natural light and or artificial light? Does every stable offer clean fresh water? Do the horses have hay in the stable?

What does the floor of the stable look like? Is there rubber matting, straw, dirt or sawdust for the floor? Does the floor drain well? Are the stable beds cleaned out regularly? A good sign if anything else is the smell. A well kept yard does not have a strong smell of ammonia (urine).

What do the horses in the various stables look like? Are they shaggy and unkempt or are they groomed? What are the horses doing – the behavior of the stabled horses is a clear sign of what type of stable environment you are looking at. An unhappy horse will most likely be chewing wood, box walking, kicking, wind-sucking amongst other vices.

Vices are however not the only way to tell a bad stable from a good one. Some horses may have developed the vice elsewhere, so concern yourself if a number of horses are all showing signs of agitation and boredom.

When looking for a stable your horses comfort should come first. He does not need a state of the art tack room or huge covered outdoor arena. He needs basics and it is trusting you to supply them.

By Benjamin Wise

Horses. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about stabling a horse. Learn about your horse.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Benjamin_Wise

Read More..

Should You Shoe Your Horse?

Ah, the perennial question. To shoe or not to shoe. Deciding whether to keep your horse barefoot or shod—and if so how many shoes to put on him—can be confusing indeed. How do you decide?

Well, you can make a seemingly difficult process relatively easy by considering your horse and the environment in which he lives. Follow up with a quick chat with your farrier, and you should have the answers to your shoeing questions as fast as you can say, well, "horseshoe!."

The KISS (keep it simple, stupid) method works well deciding whether to shoe your horse or let him go barefoot. Start by asking yourself four questions.

1. What is the quality of my horse's feet?

2. What kind of work is my horse doing, and how often?

3. What kind of footing is my horse living and working on?

4. Does my horse have any lameness or hoof issues that might affect my decision?

Let's start by answering the first question: What is the quality of your horse's feet? If you are among the lucky few your horse has good, solid feet you barely have to give a second thought to. If your horse has good feet, you probably know it. You haven't had to deal with any foot problems to speak of, and your farrier has good things to say. Feet that fall into the above category have solid heels, a thick wall without flares, a cup to the sole, and well-formed frogs that are free of disease. They are usually relatively even in the front and back. Feet like these hold a shoe well but are also very stable when the shoe comes off.

Okay, let's say your horse has good feet. Shoes, or no shoes?

Before you decide, you'll have to answer questions 2 and 3.

If your horse is doing very little work and lives and works on nice, soft, non-abrasive footing, then barefoot is the way to go. However, if your horse lives and rides on rougher footing, or is being worked hard, then you are most likely going to want your horse shod. There's a saying that horse people use when deciding whether or not to shoe. It goes, "If the hoof will stand the abuse of use, then don't shoe it. But if it will not stand the abuse, you have to shoe it."

Why go barefoot? Going barefoot enhances the overall health of the feet. The hoof wall thickens, the sole depth increases, and the heels expand. There is also increased circulation, movement, and expansion capability. A horse who is not working for some months out of the year—let's say the winter months—will benefit by having his shoes pulled during that period of rest.

Of course, there are many good reasons to shoe as well. Many horses can't go barefoot because the hoof breaks down faster than it can be replaced. Horses with foot issues, or horses that are in moderate to heavy work year-round, should be shod year-round. Horses with navicular disease should not go barefoot, nor should severely foundered horses. If your horse has splits or cracks wait until the cracks are gone before you have your horse go barefoot. Large breeds with small hooves, like the Quarter Horse, usually can't go without shoes. Nor can Thoroughbreds with paper-thin soles.

In the end, how do you know if going barefoot is working well or causing problems? Easy. A horse who adapts well to going barefoot will seem just as he did with shoes.

With a good look at your horse and his environment, you can decide whether to let you horse go barefoot, or whether he needs shoes. Remember, in the end it is the horse himself who lets you know what works best for him. Pay attention!

By Ron Petracek

Ron Petracek - Raised in southern Idaho, Ron loves horses and the outdoors. If you would like to join in and learn from the vast resources at our equine forum please visit http://www.horsechitchat.com Looking to buy sell or trade something equine realted? Just visit our huge network and get 12 sites for Free! Click here => http://www.Click4equine.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ron_Petracek

Read More..

Feeding Your Horse - Some Basic Rules

You are what you eat, and this goes for horses as well. Keeping your horse in optimal shape means knowing what to feed, how much to feed, and when to feed. To keep your horse at his healthiest and ensure that his nutritional needs are being met, follow these simple rules.

1.)Weigh your horse. You can't feed your horse correctly unless you know his weight. But before you bring him into your bathroom and attempt to load him on your scale, you should know that there is an easier, more sensible method. To estimate your horse's weight, measure his heart girth with a horse weight tape.

2.) Figure out how many pounds of hay your horse needs. A good equine diets consists of a high percentage of bulk, and a low percentage of grain. It is very, very important that you don't feed your horse too much grain! As a rule of thumb, your horse should be fed 1.5 pound of hay daily per 100 pounds of body weight. If you feed your horse twice a day, split the number you arrive at in half. Don't just measure your horse flakes of hay. Be sure to weight each flake. You would be surprised, but flakes of hay can vary quite a bit in weight!

3.) Figure out how much grain your horse needs. First of all, you should know that not all horses need grain in their diets. Young, growing horses, lactating broodmares, and horses in heavy work need grain. Other horses can probably do without. Grain should be fed by weight, and not by volume. If you plan on feeding your horse scoops of grain, make sure you know how much each scoop weighs. Each type of grain will have its own weight. Bran, for example, is much lighter than corn. If you need help figuring out how much grain to feed your horse, ask your veterinarian.

4.) Be sure not to overfeed your horses. They say the best way to a horse's heart is through his stomach. As true as that might be, overfeeding your horse can cause a wide variety of health problems, specifically founder or colic. Be sure your horse doesn't overeat accidentally by keeping all grain and feed in a locked bin. A horse who gets into grain will eat and eat until he becomes sick!

5.) Be sure not to underfeed your horse. Underfeeding is just as dangerous as overfeeding. Underfed horses are at risk for illness. If your horse is thin and weak, and lacks energy, it's possible he's not getting enough food.

6.) Supplement your horse's diet. Free choice trace mineralized salt is a great way to balance your horse's diet. These blocks contain good things like salt, iodine, zinc, iron, manganese, copper, and cobalt. A calcium and phosphorous mineral block is another good way to ensure your horse is getting all the nutrients he needs. Depending upon the type of hay you are feeding, your horse will have different mineral needs. It's always a good idea to ask your vet what minerals will balance out your horse's diet.

7.) Make sure your horse always has fresh water. Good quality, free-choice water is absolutely imperative to keep your horse in good health. Horses who don't get enough water can become sick, lose their appetites, and suffer from colic. If you live in a winter climate, it is especially important that you do something to ensure that your horse's water sources aren't frozen. Breaking the surface of natural water bodies, or providing a heating element to keep water from freezing, is necessary to keeping your horse well-hydrated.

For more great discussions on horse feed and bedding, stop on by our equine enthusiasts forum by clicking this link http://www.horsechitchat.com/equineforums . I will tell them to leave the door open.

By Ron Petracek

Ron Petracek is the current article director for a rapidly growing equine social network community. He was raised in Southern Idaho with a beautiful jet black morgan as his adventure companion, and the Snake River within a easy ride. Horses and the outdoors are a solid part of his life. For more great information and FREE equine classfieds! Everything from horses to trailers & tack please visit. http://www.EquineMiniMart.com

If you would like to help other learn more about horses than visit our beautiful and friendly equine forum http://www.horsechitchat.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ron_Petracek

Read More..

Choosing The Right Type Of Horse Trailer

Horse Trailer types are all about the kinds of trailers, which are suggested to be taken into consideration while purchasing horse trailers. There are various types of horse trailers available in the market. Usually, People always make different decisions regarding the types of horse trailers. There are different types of horse trailers which provided an effective service in carrying capacity and for towing. Often people gets confused about the various decision regarding the types of horse trailers such as the design, size range and carrying capacity of the trailers for holding minimum of more than two horses. The most important thing about the types of horse trailers is the towing capacity, which is used for hauling livestock such as horses. The types of horse trailers include stock horse trailers, straight-load horse trailers, slant-load horse trailers and semi-trailers.

Trivia of Types of Horse Trailers:

Types of Horse Trailers are considered to be chosen with the intention of an effective capacity in towing. Following are the types of horse trailers, which mentioned in much detail for better consideration:

1. Stock horse trailers: This is one of the types of horse trailers which are of very less expensive. It is enclosed at the bottom and it has a slat which is approximately placed near to the eye of the livestock for allowing ventilation. It is specifically designed for the safety and comfort of the animals. They generally have some adjustable vents and windowpanes, as well as adjournment made to offer a smooth and steady ride, reducing the stress on the animals. Some of the types of horse trailers do not provide such convenience, as in the stock horse trailers. Some horses prefer to have these types of horse trailers, because they feel little more freedom of position and movement. The best part of these types of horse trailers is the benefit it provides, such as it can be even used for hauling other horses too.

2. Straight-load horse trailers: These types of horse trailers are popularly and commonly used. It permits the horses from holding their weight uniformly on all legs and the backbone, sometime causes problems while loading and unloading. Some horses are unwilling to walk in to straight-load trailers and create some problem too.

3. Slant-load horse trailers: These types of horse trailers permit the horses within to travel at a position, which can make them often comfortable, especially during accelerations or sharp stops. However, Slant-load horse trailers are comfortable only for the large horses. Due to the typical structure of the Slant-load horse trailers, it allows only an eight feet of useable space. At the same time, horses always use the opposite direction to support themselves with the trailers speedup and slowdown of the trailers.

4. Semi-trailers: These are other types of horse trailers in which, larger proportion of the weight is supported by road tractor or detachable assembly called as dolly. It is usually equipped with peg legs, which are capable of be lowering and it supports when it is detached. The advantages of these types of horse trailers are the flexibility that it provides while using.

Conclusion:

Types of Horse Trailers, thus is an important elements in better towing. The debate regarding the types of horse trailers is now becoming a hot issue between the owners of trailers. In order to choose the types of horse trailers, it is suggested for individuals to carefully consider his personal preferences and the requirement of the horses.

By Dave Demink

Dave DeMink is a leading informational author and operates the web site which provides information on used horse trailers, steel horse trailers and featherlite horse trailers.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dave_Demink

Read More..

Buying a Horse for the Adult Rider

Carol was in her 50s when she looked to buy her first horse. She had ridden as a child, then returned to riding 40 years later. Trusting the advice of her now former instructor, she bought from him a 8-year-old off-the-track Thoroughbred who proceeded to throw her off six times in a matter of months before she sold him back to the instructor. The horse ended up as a show jumper with a strong, rider in her 20s. Thankfully, Carol was not seriously injured in those falls, but she learned a valuable lesson about temperament and suitability. She ended up with a quiet paint quarter horse that could easily go from trail to clinic. He may not have had great potential for upper level dressage or jumping, but he was versatile in his well-rounded ability with a safe, well-mannered disposition.

Like buying a horse for young beginner/novice rider, experts recommend that when buying a horse for an adult beginner/novice rider, the most important attribute is temperament.

“A kind, forgiving horse is what I look for,” explains Marie, a riding instructor who has assisted several students in purchasing horses. “Typically, we look at horses 10-years-old and up.”

She looks for a “been there, done that” attitude.

The difference, she has found, is in the intended use of the horse.

“Adults are often looking for a long-term relationship. They are looking for a companion as well as a teacher,” she says. So less important is the potential resale value of the horse since most adults have no intent to eventually sell their horses.

Young riders, by comparison, especially those looking to compete, will likely sell their horses when they’ve taken them as far as they can in competition or when they have learned all they can from their horse, Marie said.

“I’ve found that when a younger, better prospect comes along, which can go further, young riders have no issue selling their horses for a new one,” she commented.

She added that maybe that’s just the types of students she sees, but her adult riders, when they are looking for horses, are looking for a horse to learn from, to have as a companion and to grow old with.

Junior riders buying their first horses are typically more goal-oriented regarding competition goals, notes Christy, another instructor. “The novice adults I know who are looking for horses tend to look for all-a’rounders. He jumps low courses quietly, goes on trail, has hunter paced, is capable of training level dressage, can be easily trailered to a clinic, etc. He’s not flashy or pretty, but he does have to be comfortable and sensible.”

When Christy looks for horses for older clients, she looks for horses who have had older owners. For owners looking to show, like her adults who want to show lower level dressage, she looks for that are being downgraded in their training or are being sold by younger riders who are moving up the levels and need another mount. She agrees that the horse’s resale value is more of an issue for juniors than for adults.

"You have to understand the 'why' aspect of why your adult student wants her own horse," Christy added. "Once you start looking at horses with her interests and desires in mind, you'll find the right horse for the older rider."

Patty is in her late 50s and owns a 17-year-old sound, sane, quiet, Warmblood cross. At her old boarding facility, the owner, who was also a horse seller, kept pressuring her to sell the sweet mare for a younger horse. Patty loves the companionship her horse brings her, but she was almost convinced there was something wrong with her.

"Maybe if I were 15 and had dreams of the Olympics," she said. "I might consider another horse. But why would I give her up? She does everything I need and want."

Seventy-year-old Sally had her first horse Frank for 10 years before he tragically died. She has had Arley now for four years. Arley, in his 20s, is a retired show jumper.

Arley is now laid up for a year with a bowed tendon, and Sally briefly entertained the idea of buying a new horse while fully retiring Arley. But she recently decided that no one could replace him and she’ll wait to see if he’s rideable, even if just for walks on the trail, when his injury is healed.

“We’re retired together,” she said of her relationship with her horse.

IF you have a driving passion for horses like we do, please stop by our community and say hello. Just click on any link in our resource box below. We will leave the barn door open for you. Hope to see you soon.

By Ron Petracek

Ron Petracek was raised in rural southern Idaho. With the snake river and a beautiful 16 hand jet black morgan as his adventure companion. Horses and the outdoors are engraphed within his DNA. If you would like to take part in helping others learn more about horses. Please visit our equine forum. "We always leave the barn door open on purpose for new friends! Just click Here --> http://www.horsechitchat.com To experience Equine Classifieds in a dynamic way, please visit http://www.click4equine.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ron_Petracek

Read More..

Afraid To Buy A Horse At Public Auction?

Here are 5 things to do to put the odds of getting a good horse in your favor.

Let me share a short story with you about public horse auctions and my friend Jack.

I'll show you how to buy a horse at auction so you won't get burned. Jack, an old time horse trader and I use to travel to horse auction all over the state. I'd just watch Jack and maybe later ask my questions.

Jack was usually pretty closed mouthed, but he let me in on his secrets to buying good horses at auctions.

#1 Arrive at the auction real early like 3 hours or more before the auction starts.

You want to be there as the horses arrive, so you can see who brings them and how they unload and walk to their pen.

Who brings the horse? A horse trader, private party, woman, man, kid, also how many horses did they bring? You need to know this so you have a clue as to who you will possibly be buying from and who to talk to about the horse before you bid.

#2 If you see a horse you like the looks of, go to the horses holding pen.

Watch the horse and how he moves. If the horse is tied up in the pen this could mean trouble as the horse owner might not want you to see the horse move. Check the horse for blemishes and soundness, make sure the legs are clean and the hooves are healthy and maintained, there should not be any limping or signs of lameness.

I do not like scars, divots or bumps on the head and neck, This shows the horse has been in a wreck of some kind, which could mean the horse is prone to panic, I’ve been stuck with a couple of panic prone horses and they did hurt me. If you don't know about lame horses and what to watch out for, take someone with you who does or don't bid.

Now the horse should show signs of life maybe be a little bit excited, what with all the other horses and the new surroundings, if not you could be looking at a drugged horse.

#3 Talk to the person that brought the horse

you know this person because you seen them arrive. Make sure they are the owner of the horse, if not who are they? The standard stories are:

It's my neighbors horse, this often means it is my horse but I am not going to admit it to you, as I don't want to be held accountable for the lies I'm about to tell you.

Or I'm a dealer trying to pass off this horse as a good old horse so gentle to ride, the neighbor kid rode bareback on the road when in reality it's a dink horse that he can't sell off his trading string.

Jack use to saddle up to the person who brought the horse and softly ask; say can you tell me a little bit about your horse? ( then he SHUT UP! ). They would tell all the nice things about the horse and Jack would just look at the horse, not saying a word. After they got through the string of lies or half truths, they would start getting nervous because it was so quite they thought they had to ramble on some more and that's when a bit more of the truth starts to show up, yeah old Barley don't buck except that one time when he broke my collar bone opps...

#4 Follow the horse from the pen to the sale ring

Jack use to walk right into the sale ring with the horse and watch it move in the ring too. The other advantage is you can see who is bidding. The owner or someone with them may be running up the bid, you know this because you seen them arrive right?

Now you may not be able to get in the ring but you can stand next to it so you can see the horse and the crowd too. Most owners try too hard to get their horse to ride well in the ring which is usually too small to work a horse in anyway so you get to see how the horse responds under pressure. Watch for rearing, head tossing, humping up or crow hopping, usually the small size of the ring prevents them from bucking.

#5 If you still like the horse bid on it.

How much? Jack would only pay about $15 to $20 above killer price. How much is that? You need to snoop around before the sale and ask the dealers or auctioneer, I've seen it range from 15 cents to 1 dollar a pound, so that could mean from $150 to $1000 for a 1000 pound riding horse.

Jack was comfortable paying that price as he would take the horse home, try them out, if there was a problem he would run them through the next auction and not get hurt too bad, out $20 at most.

This works good if you, your wife, or kids don't fall in love with old Barley, Jack use to say if you don't send them right back to the auction. you end up with a field full of cripples and buckers.

You can get a nice horse at a rock bottom price following this method. My experience has been that I can get older well trained horses that people are bailing out on because the kids all left home and they don't want to feed the horse any more, or they just were flash in the pan horsemen and need the money for a quad runner.

I have also bought young unbroke horses that people do not have the skill to train, if you think you want a go at that, make sure you have a medical plan and go for it.

I do not pay top dollar for exceptional horses at auctions because, again experience has taught me there are no exceptional horse at these auctions, if you think there are some there, look close as there is usually a hole in them somewhere.

Now put this plan into action and you will find a nice horse that you can use and even make a profit on if you so choose at some time in the future, just do all the steps and you will get the successful results.

By Dale Anderson

Dale Anderson

Foundation Quarter Horses

360-398-1261

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dale_Anderson

Read More..

Horses - Breeds, A To Z

A horse is a horse of course of course. Right? Well, not exactly. There are more breeds of horses than Carter has liver pills. We're just going to touch on a few examples here, otherwise we're going to need a book about 2000 pages long.

For example, and we'll just start with the letter A, there is the Australian Stock Horse. This is one of those horses that arose from selective breeding due to the demands of the environment. The history of this breed actually began in 1788. When the first breed of horses was brought to Eastern Australia by the First Fleet. These horses were of mixed English Thoroughbred and Spanish stock and they were hardy enough horses that they were a perfect choice for the cavalry.

Moving along to the letter B, we have the Basotho Pony. This horse is found only in Lesotho, which is in South Africa. The horse is used almost exclusively for riding. The breed itself was developed sometime after 1825 from the Cape Horse. By the start of the 20th century this breed almost completely disappeared due to exporting of the horses and cross breeding with Arab and Thoroughbred horses. Fortunately, during the later part of the 20th century, a society was formed to revive the breed.

One of the most famous breed of horses starting with the letter C is the Clydesdale. This horse was developed in a district of Scotland. It is a heavy draft horse breed. The breed itself was developed by farmers in Lanarkshire, which is the old name for Clydesdale. This horse was mainly bred to meet the agricultural needs of farmers. The Clydesdale is a real work horse. Make no mistake about that.

The letter D gives us the Dartmoor Pony. This horse is one of nine breeds that are specific to the British Isles. This particular breed comes from a barren moorland called Dartmoor, which is located in Devon, England. These are very old horses which go all the way back to the reign of King Henry I. Today, Dartmoor Ponies are found all over Great Britain as well as countries like France, Sweden and Germany.

Moving along to the letter E, we have the Eriskay Pony. This particular pony is the only surviving variety of the Hebridean pony. It is found on the Hebrides Islands off the coast of Scotland. Today this particular breed of pony is almost extinct. Recent DNA testing of these animals show that they are of very ancient origin. These horses are mostly used for transportation and common chores such as pulling carts and even taking children to school.

And in case you are wondering, yes there are breeds of horses that begin with the letter Z. One of them is the Zaniskari Pony, which is found in Northern India. This particular breed is what is called a riding and pack breed.

Yes, there are more breeds of horse than you can possibly imagine. If you're interested in doing more research on these animals you can do so by going to http://www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/horses/Horses-w.htm. You'll have enough to read to keep you busy for many years to come.

By Michael Russell

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Horses

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Michael_Russell

Read More..

Questions To Ask When Buying A Horse

More questions!! This time to ask the owner over the phone. Things to find out are:

* Whether this horse is suitable for a beginner. Most people will be honest here, not wanting to endanger someone.

* The horse's age, height and build. Does it match your criteria?

* Color and markings, if these are important to you.

* What sort of temperament he/she has. Quiet, calm, bombproof, gentle.

* If she is a mare, what to expect with any mood swings, if any.

* The suitability for your chosen horse activity. This is an opinion only, and should be taken with a grain of salt unless there is a solid reason for that opinion. For example, if you wanted a horse for jumping and the owner advised you this horse always refuses...

* Any vices or bad habits. Charging, biting, kicking, bolting, bucking, rearing. Any of these and you can thank the owner for their time and end the call.

* Easy to catch and shoe and trailer and worm? A horse that won't do these is a pain in the behind and you should consider carefully if you want to put up with these bad habits.

* Any fears ie dogs, bicycles, cars. These aren't ideal either.

* Any health issues. So you can research if an issue would be a problem for you.

* Any soundness issues or physical limitations. A vet check will show these up, but why visit a horse that is known to be very lame?

* What the horse has been trained and used for, now and with previous owners. Has the horse had experience in what you want to do? You'll have a lot more fun on a horse that can teach you rather than the other way around.

* How long the horse has been in work (ridden regularly) and has it been in work recently. Some horses aren't trained until later in life. Sometimes horses are trained and worked and then put in a paddock and left for years.

* Any quirks of personality to be aware of. Just so you know.

* Why it is being sold. You may not get an honest answer, but it's worth asking anyway.

By Phil Tragear

Phil Tragear

http://www.HorseTrainingSuccess.com
All the questions you've asked, answered.

About the Author

Phil is author of the comprehensive book 'Horse Training Success', full of answers to the most asked horse training questions. Stop by http://www.horsetrainingsuccess.com for a huge selection of information regarding common problems, training of horses, equine psychology, how to get the best behavior and so much more!

Please feel free to use this article on condition that you maintain a live link to the http://www.horsetrainingsuccess.com website, acknowledge that the content is ©Phil Tragear 2006, and keep this paragraph included!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Phil_Tragear

Read More..

Feeding the Horse

Feeding a stabled horse is slightly different than feeding a horse that lives on a pasture. A stabled horse will spend more time in a stall and will require a somewhat different feeding regime. This is because the stabled horse does not have access to the same amount of roughage that the pastured horse receives. The stabled horse will also eat a lot of high-energy feed, but then have nowhere to release that energy. This is why it is important that you understand what and why you are feeding the horse to ensure that he is receiving all of the nutrients the horse requires.

Exercise must be considered when developing a feeding program for your horse. The horse’s age, gender and size will all play a determining role in how much the horse is fed. A horse that is four years old or older and is only ridden on the weekends or one hour per day will only require a maintenance ration. If the horse is not working extremely hard, then the horse is considered to be lightly worked. In this case, it does not matter what gender the horse is and a maintenance ration will be sufficient. You will need to fee the horse approximately one percent of his body weight in hay per day and then use your feed tag to help you determine what percentage of the horse’s body weight should be fed in grain. A horse that is on a very good pasture may not even require a grain supplementation until the cooler months.

Horses that are used for events such as jumping, roping, cutting, polo or racing are going to require a more customized feeding program. These horses will still require about one percent of their body weight in hay per day, but they may require a higher protein ration. Some horses may also need a fat added ration depending on how much energy they are burning in their work and if it is causing them to lose weight. A good general rule of thumb is that if the horse needs more energy then you should gradually increase the amount of feed that the horse is receiving. Racehorses and polo ponies may require fat added diets because they need to sustain their glucose levels throughout their competition.

The mature adult horse requires eight percent protein for daily maintenance. This means that a horse on very good pasture or alfalfa hay will not require supplementation from grain. Younger horses will require a ten to twelve percent daily protein depending on how quickly they are growing. High performance horses may require 14 percent protein depending on the amount of work they are doing. Owners should consider purchasing a well balanced sweet feed with a good hay, either alfalfa or grass, to meet their horse’s nutritional needs.

Once your horse is feed go inside and enjoy your horse home décor.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jo_Thompson

Read More..

Buying A Horse - On The Day Of Viewing

Buying a horse is buyer beware. Not to make you frightened, but it is your responsibility to make sure the horse you choose is what you expected you were getting. Check all claims made about an animal out for yourself.

To start with, take someone you know who knows horses. If you don't know anyone who will volunteer their time, consider paying a trainer or riding instructor for their time as it will be money well spent. There is so much to take in when viewing a prospective horse that many eyes alone will give a more accurate picture. Different people will 'see' different things. A beginner may see an affectionate good looking animal. An experienced horse person may observe an arthritic joint and a tendency towards pushiness.

Also on a general note, take lots of pictures. Consider making notes. If you have particular questions in mind, write them down beforehand and note the answers when you ask. This way you'll cover everything and remember a lot.

Health. Although the domain of health is for the experts, look for a general impression of wellness. In a well lit place, is the coat shiny and smooth to the touch? Are ribs showing? Does he have a pot belly? Are the hooves broken, cracked or poorly cared for? Is the horse alert or half asleep? Are the eyes bright and clear? The ears scanning for sounds?

Temperament. How is this horse around other horses? Watching him being walked past other horses as he is brought in from the pasture or out from the stable will give you and idea of how he relates to other horses. Does he kick or bite? This might be forgivable when directed at other horses, but not at humans. Do not buy a horse with bad manners.

Training. Ask for and watch the horse being caught, led, tied and groomed, including having all hooves picked out. Have a demonstration of the horse being put on a trailer. Watch the horse being saddled and mounted. In short, ask to see everything demonstrated that you'd do with this horse yourself. How does he behave?

Riding. Let the owner ride first and put the horse through all it's paces and special skills. How smooth are the horse's responses? Are there any signs of resistance or fighting? Head tossing, leaning on the bit, laziness, tugging?

Your Turn. Ask your knowledgeable friend to try the horse out and then you have a go too. Watch for how the horse reacts to you. Go back to the basics and try all the everyday stuff as well. Leading, grooming, hoof handling, saddling up.

Paperwork. If this horse is a registered breed, ask to see the papers.

If the horse does not behave, that's kicking, biting, rearing, bucking, bolting etc then don't buy it. Did you hear that? No matter how stunning you think this horse may be! Don't buy it. Yes you want to feel a strong commitment to your animal AND you also want a well-behaved animal, especially if this is your first horse. Don't settle on a gorgeous looking bucker. It's not worth it, and the well behaved ones come in 'stunning' too.

It can be worth making a second visit. Ask the questions you forgot the first time. Repeat the same questions from the first time. Do the answers match? Is the horse behaving in the same manner?

By Phil Tragear

Phil Tragear
http://www.HorseTrainingSuccess.com
All the questions you've asked, answered.

About the Author

Phil is author of the comprehensive book 'Horse Training Success', full of answers to the most asked horse training questions. Stop by http://www.horsetrainingsuccess.com for a huge selection of information regarding common problems, training of horses, equine psychology, how to get the best behavior and so much more!

Please feel free to use this article on condition that you maintain a live link to the http://www.horsetrainingsuccess.com website, acknowledge that the content is ©Phil Tragear 2006, and keep this paragraph included!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Phil_Tragear

Read More..

What You Must Know About Horse Trailers

One of the most important factors to consider when buying a horse trailer is safety. If your horse trailer isn't road-worthy, you could be putting both yourself and your horses in danger, not to mention everyone else on the road. Blown tires have resulted in the deaths of many horses, so don't cut corners when deciding if your horse trailer is road-worthy or not.

Nature of Horses
Horses are creatures of the prairie that are designed for life in wide open spaces. Horses are claustrophobic by nature so the more room, light and ventilation in the trailer, the less stress on the horse and facts are that most horses are very sensitive to dust and noxious gasses. Horses are large and strong animals and the equipment you haul with them is heavy. Therefore the trailer design must be able to hold up to kicks, rough loading, and even a fallen horse. When loading horses make sure they are led onto the straight load trailer and tied facing forwards. This is the direction in which they will travel comfortably.

Using Aluminum Trailers
Aluminum has become very popular for use in both the frame and body of horse trailers in recent years. Aluminum trailers tend to cost more up front but generally hold their value better over time than steel trailers. The main disadvantage of steel is weight, but since less steel is needed for strength than aluminum, a steel trailer can compare very favorably to aluminum in respect to weight. The fact is that aluminum must be thicker than steel to be as strong, therefore, an all aluminum trailer is not always lighter than a trailer made of another material. Repairs to aluminum trailers can be more difficult because aluminum welding is more difficult that steel welding. So before selection a aluminum trailer consider all disadvantages.

Need a Gooseneck?
Goosenecks generally are larger trailers and can carry more weight. Goosenecks also are easier to maneuver and back up. Gooseneck trailers provide excellent towing stability and easy maneuverability when turning or parking and they come in models of 6'9" or 8' wide with short walls in 4', 6', 8', 10' or 12' lengths. Gooseneck trailers are loved for their stability on the road and smooth ride. For more than two horses, a gooseneck is the better option.

Need a Stronger Vehicle?
Not all trailers will fit with every vehicle, so it's best to check this out beforehand. The owners budget, use of the trailer, size of the trailer, type of trailer and the tow vehicle that will be used are all factors that need to be addressed, and not particularly in this order. Buying a trailer that holds more than two horses requires a heavy duty towing vehicle, so you will be spending more money not only for the trailer, but for the necessary truck to pull it. There are more vehicle choices for a tag-along trailer, which means there is also a better chance to pick the wrong one. If the tow vehicle is properly rated and equipped with the proper hitch, a tag-along two-horse trailer can be just as safe as a gooseneck.

Finding the right horse trailer can be a difficult task but if you need more information please check out our website below.

For everything your need to know about horse trailers be sure to check out our website.

By Hank Westwood

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Hank_Westwood

Read More..