Horse Feeding Tips

A horse's nutritional requirements and his digestive system have not changed since the time he was first domesticated thousands of years ago. However, due to a lack of knowledge, convenience considerations and an over-zealous adoption of the scientific claims of the feed industry, the way we feed a horse has changed dramatically. Often, these methods contradict what natural horsemanship tells us about feeding and result in health problems for the horse and management problems for owner.

Certain principles of natural horsemanship can be applied to choosing a proper feeding program for the horse. Just as we studied aspects of horse physiology and psychology when approaching training techniques, it is beneficial to think in these terms when we decide how to feed our horses. This will tell us both what to feed and how to feed.

It doesn't take an expert in natural horsemanship or equine nutrition to understand that feeding flakes of alfalfa and grain supplements twice a day to a horse in a stall is not what Mother Nature intended. Indeed, that approach completely ignores a few basic principles that every horse owner should know about their four-legged charges.

A horse's digestive system is designed to obtain the maximum nutritional benefit from a diet of high-fiber and low-energy grasses. The foundation of a healthy, natural diet for a modern, domesticated horse is grass and grass hay. A horse in his natural environment will spend many hours a day grazing. Most experts say that a horse needs to consume at least 1.5 - 2 lb. of good quality hay and grain for every 100 lbs of body weight. Much will depend upon the metabolism of the horse. Horses that are heavily worked, pregnant and lactating mares will consume up to 3 lbs of dry matter for every 100 lbs. of body weight.

Grass hay is much preferable to alfalfa for the bulk for the horse's diet for several reasons. Alfalfa is a very rich or "hot" feed for the horse. It contains approximately 50% more protein and energy per pound than grass hay. Its phosphorous to calcium ratio is also too high for a horse's requirements. When fed with grain, as alfalfa often is, numerous digestive problems including colic may result. Alfalfa may be fed but only in small quantities almost as a supplement, not as the predominant feed component.

Not all hay is the same. The nutritional content of hay depends not only on the variety of grass grown, but also on the soil and amount and type of fertilizer used. Hay quality also can vary and should be examined prior to purchasing. Good hay exhibits the following qualities:

1. Should be leafy as opposed to containing too many stems. Most of hay's protein is contained in the leaves.

2. Good-quality hay should exhibit a light green color. If it is too yellow or brown, it might have been harvested too late and may not contain proper nutrients.

3. The hay should smell fresh and sweet. Hay that smells moldy or musty should be avoided. Feeding moldy hay can result in colic.

4. Check for weeds and other non-hay matter. Good horse hay should contain a bare minimum of weeds, sticks and debris.

Unfortunately, hay comes without supermarket labels specifying nutritional content, but often a reputable hay supplier will have a laboratory analysis available for a particular cutting of hay he is selling. Parameters to look for include:

1. Moisture: usually averages around 10%. Higher than 13% may result in palatability problems and even mold proliferation.

2. Crude protein: Legume hay will run 20% or more. High quality grass hay might run as high as 12-15%. A minimum should be at least 8%.

3. Digestible energy (DE): This is an estimate of the amount of energy available to the horse from the hay. This figure will vary depending upon the stage of growth at which the grass was cut and harvested. Young grass will have a higher DE. As the crop matures, DE decreases as the lignin content increases. A DE reading of less than 1.65 Mcal/kilogram indicates a high level of indigestibility and should not be fed to horses. This could cause impaction colic.

4. Acid detergent fibre (ADF: Indicates the digestibility of fiber in the hay. ADF levels above 45% indicate poor nutritional levels, while values less than 31% indicate excellent quality hay.

When horses ran wild, their food supply consisted of different kinds of grasses grown in one pasture or field. Today we have lost that natural variety. An improved pasture is more than likely to contain just one variety of hay grass. Feeding just one type of hay can limit the nutritional value of the horse's ration, especially trace minerals. Several different kinds of hay, ideally, should be fed. This will not only provide a more balanced diet but will also vary taste and texture characteristics of the feed as well.

A horse will also nibble eagerly on all kinds of vegetable matter. A good idea is to provide your horse with tree branches with leaves to chew on. He will not only be able to derive needed nutrients but will use his teeth and wear them down naturally. A horse's teeth are continually growing, and because of domestication and modern feeding techniques, usually need to be rasped down once a year. In the wild the horse is apt to feed in such a way that the growth of his teeth is naturally kept under control.

In addition to being perfectly suited to extracting maximum nutritional value from grasses, a horse's digestive system has other requirements which are often ignored by owners. The relatively small size of the stomach limits the amount of feed that can be safely consumed at one time. A horse is unable to vomit or belch. Eating a large volume of hay and grain concentrate twice a day, as most horses do, can be unhealthy and even dangerous. A horse should eat small amounts, many times a day.

One of the unique features of the horse's digestive system is that even though he has but one stomach compartment, as opposed to ruminants like cows, there is a large microbial population in the cecum and colon. These microbes have the ability to break down and utilize the nutrients contained in forage. The peculiar shape of the colon which bends back upon itself numerous times reduces the rate at which digested food is able to pass. This allows more efficient utilization of roughages in the horse's feed, but also can cause digestive problems when the horse is not fed correctly.

If you observe a horse eating in a barn situation, you can readily see that he prefers to eat off the ground. Most feeders require a horse to eat with their necks extended and their heads raised. This is an unnatural position for a horse to eat. Grass particles and debris fall back into his face and eyes. The horse cannot properly chew his food, and respiratory problems can result when the horse constantly inhales dust from the hay. It's better to place hay on the ground in small amounts and in different places.

A diet of high-quality grass and hay should provide all the energy and protein needs non-working horses require. However, if a horse is in training, shows in performance classes or is ridden frequently, you might want to supplement with grain. Although this might be considered a departure from a purely natural approach to feeding, riding and working a horse is a complete departure from what nature intended as well.

In his natural environment as a wild, prey animal, a horse consumed very little grain. His very limited grain consumption took place in the fall from natural grasses that had gone to seed. This probably served to put on extra weight before winter. However, our energy demands on a horse have changed nutritional demands on him as well.

If a horse needs more energy, fat and protein in his diet than he is receiving from a grass and hay-based diet, there are several ways you can get him that additional nutrition. It's a good idea to avoid feeding the quantity of sugar and molasses present in many commercial sweet feeds. Just as in humans, the ingestion of large amounts of sugar can play havoc with the horse's insulin-regulating mechanism. Compounded grain products may also contain other undesirable ingredients such as fish and animal by-products.

You can get your horse the extra energy he needs through supplementing with rice and wheat bran or oats and barley. Limit the horse's intake of prepared rations of grain except for pregnant and lactating mares and young foals. We want to feed naturally but we don't want to reject out of hand advances in feed science. Educate yourself and choose supplements based on your horse's true needs. Do not overfeed grain, however.

Natural supplements that are useful to include in a horse's daily ration include flaxseed. Flaxseed is a good source for important Omega-3 fatty acids that are so important in human diets too. Omega-3 fatty acids can play a role in alleviating chronic inflammation and strengthen the immune system. They can improve the condition of a horse's coat and hooves.

Food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE) supplements is a lesser-known source of trace minerals, internal and external parasite control, improved feed utilization and fly control. DE is a desiccant and can be used as a feed supplement or can be spread around stalls and the barn and will kill 75% of flies, fleas and mites that come into contact with it. Horse owners who use DE religiously claim that feeding DE to their foals and grown horses eliminates the need for chemical worming.

Horses themselves can be a judge of what trace minerals they need to consume. Have you ever seen a horse digging in the ground and begin to lick some special rock they've found? He seems to know instinctively what minerals he is lacking and where he can get them. This probably pertains more to a wild and varied environment than to a controlled and limited pasture environment. For that reason, it is a good idea to provide a free-choice salt and trace mineral product especially formulated for horses.

When horses are first offered this feeding option, they will initially consume a considerable amount but begin self-regulating very quickly. A supply of salt is essential to a horse's health and well-being. In the wintertime salt should be manually added to a horse's feed in order to ensure that he drinks the proper amount of water. Be sure to make available to the horse an unlimited supply of fresh, clean water.

By Anita Lamb

http://www.horsetrainingwiz.com
http://www.horsetraining.blogspot.com

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Zen Gardening

For a region that is predominantly Buddhist, Chan, or Zen, is an important philosophy. Zen is a term used for a school that teaches the teachings of Buddha and how they are active in the natural world. Buddhism was in China before the Zen teachings, and when the Indian prince Bodhidharma introduced the idea to the Buddhist in 526 A.D., they were amazed at his way of seeing the world for what it is. Zen took off after Bodhidharma's ideas were spread.

Schools of Zen teachings were a mix of the Daoism philosophy and Mahayana. These were very strict schools that insisted on the idea that separate things exist only in relation to one another, which means nature cannot be defined or classified in any way. The goal of these Buddhist practicing Zen was to accomplish the way of seeing the world as Buddha did, just as it is, with a mind that has no grasping thoughts or feelings. Schools that teach Zen recognize the importance of the arts, such as: painting, calligraphy, architecture, ceremonial tea drinking, and gardening. Other areas of Buddhism, such as Japan, practice arts such as Jujitsu as an art as well. Of the Zen arts, gardening is one of the most important and interesting forms of art.

Gardening has been done in Zen for almost a millennium. In the eleventh century, monks began creating these gardens as a tool to teach the principals of Zen and Buddhism to students. These gardens take careful consideration and care to make a peaceful environment for meditation. It takes a lot of labor to keep them looking nice, but Buddhist think of it more of an opportunity to create than just a basic chore. The gardens have to be a perfect place to meditate.

We know these gardens simply as the desktop sand box with a rake, but there is a lot more to a Zen garden. Everything in a garden is there for a reason. Every single rock, plant, sand spread, water form, and bridge serves a purpose for the garden. The number 3 has importance in Buddhism because of the Buddhist trinity and the sky, earth, and humanity. Odd numbers are used because of the Buddhist belief that the earth is not an even structure and nature is naturally uneven. All gardens are meant to be massive landforms on a much smaller scale.

The materials used in the gardens represent different things. Of the objects used, rocks are the most meaningful. Tall rocks are used to symbolize the sky and wide flat rocks are used to symbolize the earth. Some rocks are even used to represent animals or specific landforms. The sand spreads are the most interesting part of Zen gardens; they are important because they are meant to give a sense of emotion while meditating. While many plants are used in the gardens, floral fixtures are rarely found because they are not naturally occurring. Not everything used is natural; pathways, bridges, a lanterns are frequently used to guide the visitor in the path that Buddha would take. They also are used to show Buddhist beliefs, such as, the Eight-Fold Path. Everything in a garden has a purpose.

These beautiful gardens are now all over the Buddhist countries in Asia. What began in China is now celebrated more in Japan and Korea. Japan is home to the world's finest gardens, such as, Kyoto, Nijo, Katsura, Sento and numerous others. Over time, the gardens have stayed true to the basic style, the only exception is Japan, many of their gardens have a lot of ponds and other water fixtures. The gardens, though a big tourist attraction, are still used today.

Overall, the ultimate goal of Zen and Zen gardening is to show the world from the point of view that Buddha saw it. Because of this, they are some of the most unique gardens in the world. They give monks a great place to meditate and are fun to look at. Their popularity in Asia has brought them to the United States. Americans use miniature dry rock gardens with sand and a rake as a relaxation devise. There are even a couple of Zen gardens in the Chicago land area. They look simple and easy to make, but they are really complex and need a lot of care. If a leaf falls in any design, it must be picked up, that's just how meaningful and important Zen gardens are.

By Sarah W. Daniels

Sarah Daniels
http://www.gardengirly.com

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Best Methods of Horses Mating

Some horse owners new to breeding are quite embarrassed by the functions involved in horses mating and the best methods to get proven results from each breeding encounter. There are two main methods used in producing results from your horses mating: pasture breeding, and hand breeding. Of those two, hand breeding is the one that is proven to be the most reliable method, but it is the one that also produces the most embarrassment for beginning breeders.

Pasture Breeding

Pasture breeding is the simplest form of breeding in that the only thing that needs to be done is to release a stallion in with one or more selected mares to be bred and leave them alone to do what nature intended them to do. There is no need to watch your horses mating, in fact, it may be near to impossible to catch some of the shyer stallions in the act although most are quite exhibitionist in nature and have no shame in doing their thing in full view of anyone who desires to watch.

Some of the pros of pasture breeding are:

• No embarrassment-There is no need to watch.

• Less hassle-Horses are simply left together and the time spent is only in putting them out in the pasture.
• Physically less dangerous for the owners-Since there is no contact with the animals involved during the mating it is safer for the owners.

Some of the cons regarding pasture breeding horse mating methods are:

• No Assurance-Since you are not likely to stand watch 24/7 to ensure the stallions have successfully mated with the mares in question there is no way to tell for sure that the mating took place.
• Unknown breeding dates-While you will know the average range of dates calculated from the day you released the stallion in with the mares to the day you took him out of the pasture that the foal may be due you cannot know the exact date of expectancy making it harder for you to be present when a foal is born.
• Stallion risks-One reason so many valuable stallions are only live bred by hand are that in a free and open situation a reluctant mare can seriously damage the stallion as he attempts to seduce and mate with her. There have been many instances where extremely valuable animals were even castrated by a well aimed kick from an angry mare.

Hand Breeding

By far the most popular method of getting the best results from horses mating is using the hand breeding method. This ensures copulation in a safe and controlled situation where the dangers to the stallion are also greatly reduced.

In this method the stallion is lead on a lead rope to where the mare is being held and allowed to court and then mount. If a mare becomes reluctant, or even violent the stallion can be pulled away to keep him safe. It is imperative that a stallion be taught impeccable ground manners beforehand so that they are completely controllable even when hormonally aroused. This method is also best because if a stallion is successful in courting and the mare is willing but he has trouble getting the proper position he can be assisted by hand to ensure the copulation actually takes place.

Pros of hand breeding are:

• Insured insemination

• Accurate delivery dates-Since you are present at the breeding you know exactly when to calculate the arrival of an expected foal. This allows you to be present should any difficulties occur during delivery and possibly prevent the loss of a valuable foal.

By Katie Appleby

Katie Appleby is an accomplished niche website developer and author.

To learn more about horse breeding, please visit Horses Today for current articles and discussions.

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The Thoroughbred Horse - Thoroughly Bred For Distance Racing

The Thoroughbred is also known as the Thoroughbred Racehorse even though that is not their only use. While they have historically been bred for racing, their 16 to 17.3 hand height and long legs allow them to excel at jumping and their graceful ways of moving helps the breed to excel at most of the English disciplines such as equitation and dressage.

The Thoroughbred breed includes some of the most valuable animals in the world. In 1985 an untested yearling colt named Seattle Dancer was sold at auction for the record price of $13.1 million just on the basis of his pedigree.

The Thoroughbred pedigree dates back to the late 1600s and may be the oldest recorded pedigree for any animal population. One of the earliest formal registries was the General Stud Book for Thoroughbreds that began in 1791. It shows that the breed descended from a group of English-bred horses whose ancestry can be traced back to three foundation stallions: the Darley Arabian owned by Thomas Darley (1703); the Godolphin Arabian "Barb" owned by Lord Godolphin (1730); and the Byerly Turk owned by Captain Robert Byerly (1683). These three stallions were imported to England from North Africa and the Middle East around the turn of the 17th century and were bred to the strong, locally available native English mares.

The Jockey Club took over the General Stud Book in 1896 and is the official registry for Thoroughbreds. The JC manages one of the most sophisticated computer operations in the country for tracking race results world-wide. Its database holds the names of more than 1.8 million horses in a master pedigree file which trace back to the late 1800's.

According to the pedigree records, the overall foundation stock numbered only 80 horses, with 21 of those contributing a total 80% of the pedigree for modern Thoroughbred horses. Only 10 horses have contributed over 50% of the genes in the current generation of Thoroughbreds and four of those horses appear in the bloodlines of over 30% of modern Thoroughbreds. With such a small gene pool, genetic problems associated with inbreeding are generally expected. However, this does not appear to be the case in the Thoroughbred.

Now, as a result of three centuries of careful selection, Thoroughbred racehorses are the fastest horses in the world over distances of 1-1.75 miles. They have been bred to carry more than 1000 to 1300 pounds of their own body weight over extended distances, galloping at speeds of 35-40 miles per hour, yet still have the agility to respond to changes of pace or direction as dictated by the rider.

The gallop is the most natural gait for the Thoroughbred and the breed canters in a gallop called running. The feet move in a four-beat gait, and before the beat begins again, just for an instant, all four feet are off the ground and the horse is airborne for that single second before he begins the gait pattern again. Patience, training, and breeding can help instill pacing and trotting gaits, as well as other desirable motions.

Thoroughbreds are officially recognized in the colors of bay, black, chestnut, dark bay, dark brown, white, gray, roan, and palomino. The head should be proportional to the rest of the body, with a flat forehead and wide-set intelligent eyes. The head, which is carried relatively low, should sit well on a neck that is longer and lighter than in other breeds. The shoulder should be deep, well-muscled and sloped along the same parallel as that on which the head is carried. When seen from behind or from the front, the legs should be straight and move smoothly in unison through a single plane.

The Thoroughbred is one of the 5 "hot-blooded" horses in terms of temperament, which means they have more sensitivity and energy. But being high-strung gives the Thoroughbreds an edge that helps them compete successfully as race horses. Hot bloods have high intelligence that allows them to be athletic, versatile, and to learn quickly. They have agility and speed and are generally considered spirited and bold. They tend to have long legs and a slim build and are more physically refined than other breeds. Some pedigree lines of Thoroughbred are known to be temperamental, if not hot-headed, while others are equally known for their level-headedness.

All Thoroughbreds are given an official birthday of January 1st to keep the age groups easily defined for racing, regardless of the actual date of birth of the foal. They must be registered with the Jockey Club within a year of the actual birth date and must be DNA tested to prove their parentage. Additionally, a horse must be named by February of its 2-year-old year, but even that can be a challenge, since the owner must submit 6 names and it is the Jockey Club that will decide which name they can have.

In addition to DNA, "night-eyes": or "chestnuts", may be required for identification. These are horny, irregular growths that are found on the inside of a horse's legs. They are just above the knees on the front legs and they are near the rear of the hock on the rear legs. These chestnuts are like human fingerprints since no two horses have been found to have the same set of these growths. Additionally, since they do not change in size or shape throughout the life of an adult horse they are extremely useful in animal identification. The Jockey Club often asks for a set of night-eye photos to assist in the identification of horses that have no white markings or for identifying gray/roans.

An expert on biomechanics of the horse once noted that if there is a limit on the Thoroughbred's performance, it may be on the ability of the horse to remain sound in the face of the tremendous physical stresses of racing.

By Philip Wiskell

Philipe Wiskell is a writer for HorseClicks.com, popular horse classified website of horses for sale that includes a lot of Thoroughbred horses for sale.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Philip_Wiskell

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Safely Weaning a Horse

Just like human babies, foals have to be weaned from their dams too. This however is often a very challenging task. Horse owners who have little experience with weaning may unintentionally introduce methods that could be harmful to a weanling.

Making Sure a Foal is Prepared

Foals need to stay with their dams for a period of time after birth since their only source of food and optimum nutrition at this time is their mothers' milk. As they grow older however, it is ideal to wean them for their own physical and emotional well-being. Foals can be weaned when they are at least three months old. Weaning beyond six months may prove both difficult and emotionally damaging to a foal.

Since foals also have individual personalities, they will not all be ready for weaning at the same time. You will know if the time is right if a foal is already comfortable with eating solid food and shows signs of independent socialization skills separate from its mother. Foals that are a bit timid may take longer to wean. Before you begin weaning procedures, make sure that you foal is in very good health.

Separating Foal and Dam

The most obvious way to wean a foal is to separate it from its dam. Separation here means keeping a foal and a dam completely out of sight and hearing of each other. Some horse owners may choose to wean abruptly, immediately separating a foal and its dam without the prospect of future visits. Some may choose to separate foals and dams slowly, allowing dams to be nearby in gradually decreasing frequencies.

You can get an idea on the best method of separation to use based on the foal's personality. Foals that show streaks of independence may be able to handle abrupt separations better than timid foals. This does not mean though that abrupt separation will work at all times for independent foals. Closely observe foals during the separation period to determine if you are on the right track.

Feeding Strategies

Feeding itself may be a strategy for weaning. Once a foal is helped into preferring solid food over its mother's milk, it will increasingly seek solids. A horse owner may choose between feeding foals more in a stable or more on the pasture away from their dams. Feeding on the pasture allows the foals better opportunities to socialize with other foals.

Wherever a horse owner chooses to keep foals, it is important to ensure that the area is safe and secure. Foals generally feel anxious when weaning and may run away, bump against solid objects or harm themselves.

Human and Horse Socialization

One strategy to help wean foals is to put them in the company of other weaning foals especially when they are out to pasture. This method however must be used carefully and judiciously. Some foals may transfer their attachments from their dams to their fellow foals. This can be a greater problem since foals attached to each other may behave violently once they are separated from each other.

Aside from introducing horse company, it would be better if you introduced consistent human company as well. This will teach your foal to get used to being handled by humans.

By Scott Summers

Scott Summers is an avid horse enthusiast. If you want to learn more about horses and horsemanship, he recommends Horseman Magazine.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Scott_Summers

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Your Horse's Basic Health Care Needs

An important part of your horse's health care needs is for you to develop a partnership with a veterinarian prior to an emergency. You can begin developing a partnership by consulting your veterinarian for your horse's routine and preventive health care.

Your horse should be vaccinated at least once a year. The type of vaccinations your horse requires is determined by age and overall health. Your veterinarian can recommend what vaccinations your horse needs.

In the U.S., you may want to help protect your horse by vaccinating for the West Nile Virus. Contact your veterinarian if you see any of these signs in your horse; loss of appetite, depression, fever, stumbling or tripping, weakness in the legs, impaired vision, wandering or circling, inability to swallow, partial paralysis, head pressing or tilt, inability to stand up, convulsions.

De-worm your horse several times each year. It is recommended to alternate de-worming products and different de-worming classifications (mebendazole, organosphosphate, avermectine, etc.). Most de-wormers must be used every 60 days. Paste de-worming is as effective as tube de-worming. It is best to consult with your veterinarian when establishing a de-worming program.

The old de-worming tubes come in handy to dispense tablets to your horse. Crush the tablets and put into the tube. Add a little bit of water and shake until a paste forms. Then administer it like you would a de-wormer.

Teeth should also be checked once a year. Your horse's teeth may need to be filed due to uneven wear. Symptoms of improper chewing include feed falling from your horse's mouth while chewing, your horse holds its head to one side to chew, wasted feed, excessive slobbering, indigestion, and large amounts of whole grain in the feces. Your horse's teeth may need to be checked if it is starting to take longer to eat its feed. Strong, sour odors from the mouth can be indications of tooth cavities or food particles lodged in the mouth. If you horse eats, but seems to be losing weight, or maybe is not handling as well while riding anymore, then floating (filing) the teeth may be necessary to remove sharp edges that are causing discomfort or making it difficult to grind food.

Keep a first aid kit handy containing items such as diluted iodine solution, hydrogen peroxide, Neosporin, sterile gauze sponges and rolls, self-adhesive tape (vet wrap), blunt-tipped bandage scissors, topical eye ointment, sedative and pain killer. Consult with your veterinarian on what is appropriate to have in the first aid kit. Contact your veterinarian any time your horse appears sick, disoriented, or has been injured.

Many types of mineral and vitamin supplements are on the market. Use commercially prepared supplements and never exceed the recommended levels. If feeding your horse a grain concentrate, check the ingredients. Often the concentrate will provide all the necessary vitamins and minerals your horse needs without needing to add any additional supplement.

Clean your horse's hooves before and after you ride. Examine all hooves frequently for problems. Hooves need to be trimmed regularly. Most horses need to have their hooves trimmed, or shoes reset every six to eight weeks. A qualified farrier can make recommendations for your horse.

By Randall Holman

Randall Holman, site owner of Front Range Frenzy and horse enthusiast, is the author of the above article. You will find other easy and practical basic horse care information on his website: http://www.FrontRangeFrenzy.com.

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Young Horse Training

The high number of tips and advice on training young horses are enough to drive any person to insanity, especially people very new to horse training.

The many techniques and principles that exists can sometimes conflict with each other, making it very perplex.

Horse training is essential for horse trainers to build up a young horse's physical characteristics and personality.

Almost every horse training regimen depends on the breed of horse being trained. Just like humans, horses have fast and slow learners. Even under one breed, individual horses has their own development rate. By knowing this, you will be able to correct your horse training program wherever it may be needed.

Five years is the average age a horse can start training but one must remember that horses are still very young at this age and shouldn't be handled to strictly with an iron-fisted program as this can damage their physical development. At this age, one should be focusing on letting the horse know what it feels like under the saddle.

The mountain horse can be trained under the saddle from as early as two years whereas the Arabians, which are especially slow on their development, can barely be trained for anything at that age.

While it is true that horse training can start at an age of two to five years, young horses should in no way be submitted to horse training intended for fully grown horses. Training sessions should only be started with fifteen to thirty minute sessions.

Also remember that the training environment also plays a significant role where young horses are being trained. Deep layers of soft sand in the riding ring may not be good as in order to move their feet out of the sand, they would have to pull harder. So would it also be better to rather use level field instead of incline ground when training as it may be stressful on the young horse's developing legs.

It is thus very good to have a guide on helping you with training your young horse right from the very start.

By Nathalie K

For a great, very informative guide on horse training, Click Here

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Tracing Your Horse's History

Anyone who has owned an older horse, who has no knowledge of their breeding or background and has grown to love that horse, must surely wonder where he or she came from? What did they do in their past? What happened in their lives that shaped their likes and dislikes?

In pre-internet days there wasn't a lot you could do to find out but now we have access to email and on-line searchable databases, it means the horse industry is literally at our fingertips!

If your horse is a particular breed then you may be in luck, try contacting the breed society in your state and hope something turns up. Your horse might have come with a show name or brand which is registered (or was registered in the past), which may reveal his breeding and a little about his history.

If your horse is an ex-racehorse, then you are definitely in luck in your horse is from Australia. You can visit http://www.studbook.aust.com and do a search on his official racing name. It should reveal his sire and dam, his date of birth, racing history and earnings.

For standardbreds, visit http://www.harness.org.au which will give similar info.

If your horse is branded, then you need a good description of that brand. Letters and numbers are clear enough but symbol brands need to be accurately described, copy the brand down on a piece of paper, or take a clear photo when the horse has his summer coat in, or when the area has been clipped.

Most states have brand registries, including some online searchable databases. You can find a comprehensive listing of brand contacts at:

http://www.horsedirectory.com.au

Click on "Horse Resources" in the left hand menu, then "Horse Branding/Brand Marks Identification" which will direct you where to try next.

You can also contact your local EFA branch in your state and check if your horse has been registered in the past. Another good site is at: http://www.horsecouncil.org.au

They have a comprehensive links section, plus a listing of most breed organisations and societies in Australia.

But Say Your Horse is of no Particular Breed

Where do you start your search?

Your first contact should be your horse's previous owner, ask them to tell you everything they know including where they got him/her from. Then you might be able to trace him right back through a succession of previous owners and discover a wealth of info. However people move, change phone numbers and seemingly disappear into thin air. What then?.

One idea is to post on some local horse forums, they usually allow you to upload pictures.

You can also try Yahoo horse groups, if you spread the word far and wide, it just might turn something up ! You'll never know if you don't at least start digging.

If you bought your horse locally and his previous owner can't be contacted or shed any light on his/her background, try putting up notices in local feed merchants, saddle shops and veterinary surgeries, or enquire at the nearest Pony Club.

You might strike it lucky !!

By Samantha J Jane

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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Taking Care of Your Horses In The Heat

We go to great lengths to make ourselves comfortable in the hot weather, air conditioning, fans, cold drinks. What should we do to ensure our horses are also comfortable through our hot, dry and dusty summer?

1. On the priority list -

WATER is definitely right at the top! As a general rule of thumb, horses drink 3-4% of their body weight each day, with this percentage increasing following work or during hot conditions. A 550kg horse will therefore drink (in normal conditions) around 22 litres of water per day, with 50 litres not out of the question in hot weather or after work. If your horse is getting his water supply via buckets don't forget to take into account the evaporation factor, and also ensure that water remains cool. If it becomes tepid, your horse may not drink and could suffer from dehydration. Be aware that you may have to replace or top up during the day. Obviously the best scenario is for your horse to have access to clean, fresh water where he can just meet his own requirements. Horses should be cooled down after work however before being allowed free access to water.

2. On the priority list -

Your horse, like yourself, will appreciate being able to get out of the direct sun in the heat of the day. Therefore shade is important. If there are no trees to provide shade in the paddock, a roofed shelter is desirable. if your stables are cool and well ventiliated, you may decide to keep your horse in during the day and out at night.

3. On the priority list -

Light rugs, sometimes referred to as 'fly sheets', are useful in keeping your horse comfortable in the heat and less annoyed by insects (hint: light colours deflect the heat). Fly veils can also provide your horse with a higher degree of comfort in the daylight hours, but for safety, check regularly. A good fly control program is important as flies and other biting insects can carry diseases, cause sores, annoy any existing wounds and provoke allergic reactions. You may wish to regularly apply a fly repellent, there are a number on the market that are purposely designed for horses. Covering your horse up from the sun will also ensure that his coat does not suffer any "bleaching" .

4. On the priority list -

If your horse has a pink muzzle or other sun sensitive parts on his body, apply zinc cream or sun block. For the muzzle you can attach a U.V. flap from the headstall to protect his nose from the sun. 5 On the priority list - When temperatures really soar, your horse will enjoy a cool hosing or sponging down, to bring down his body temperature. Make sure you scrape the water off afterwards though or it will form a blanket of its own and trap heat to the horse.

6. On the priority list -

If possible do not stable a hot horse. Standing still in a confined area whilst hot can cause the horse's temperature to rise even higher. Walk the horse in the open air to cool off and allow him to stand where there is plenty of air to flow over his body. If possible, plan your ride to avoid the hottest part of the day, kinder on you and him!.

7. On the priority list -

Assess the availability of summer feed and the body weight/condition of your horse regularly as paddock pasture is soon dried out and burnt off by the sun. You should supplement his diet with hay when the pasture is minimised as the digestive system of the horse is designed to continually process fibre.

8. On the priority list -

You should also develop in advance a plan of action to be carried out in the eventuality of a bush fire. The development of a survival plan that meets your individual needs is important. Whether you decide that you would transport your horse to a safe district, or place him in the safest part of the property (which may be a closely grazed paddock, green swampy area, well fenced large sand menage), the main thing is to have a plan in place.

9. On the priority list -

You should also make every effort to remove any fire hazards such as long, excessive grass and leaf litter from around buildings and stables. Clean gutters regularly and store hay, shavings etc. away from the stable block throughout summer.

By Samantha J Jane

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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Why Horses Bite And What To Do About It

While watching horses play with each other, you'll notice they do things like push their bodies, rear up, strike and kick, and BITE. Of course it's all in fun and grabbing a bit of skin in their teeth is no big deal, unless the recipient is a human. It hurts !A horse that wants to bite you is usually expressing his desire to play, but he doesn't know that human skin is not quite as tough as a horse's. On one hand it's a compliment that your horse wants to play with you, on the other hand, it's a clear sign that he doesn't see you as the alpha.

Horses Never Bite Their Alpha !

Do you know how to recognise the alpha in a herd?

He or she is the one without the bite marks ! Horse's don't bite their alpha. In the game of dominance, those who 'bite best' win. When horses play and nip each other they are basically developing their dominance skills and rehearsing takeover strategies.

People Turn Playful Horses Into More Aggressive Biters

Most people smack a horse for biting, which doesn't work because prey animals don't understand punishment. They think you are biting back and now the interchange becomes all about who will 'win' the dominance game. In horse land the bravest, smartest and quickest horse wins. The alpha horse is calm, self confident and totally unemotional. He's also ready to do whatever it takes to maintain the alpha position. So when a horse goes to bite and you try to smack him, the horse just gets better at the game, he gets quicker at taking a nip and dodging the slap.

As time goes on the nip turns into bites because the horse gets more serious about dominating you. Also, when a horse can evoke an emotional reaction from you, surprise, anger, fear, he knows you have no chance of being alpha. You obviously aren't calm, smart or brave enough !

Prevention Is Better Then Cure

What does Pat Parelli do when he gets bitten ?

"I say "ow" and rub it until it stops hurting ! What else are you going to do? Slapping the horse doesn't work and it definitely doesn't improve the relationship. If you got bitten it's your fault for not thinking, being and behaving more like a horse!

Satisfy The Play Game

Many biters live in very restrictive environments, like stables and pens, and are isolated from other horses. Of course they're going to feel pent up and lonely as their need for social interaction increases. The you may be all they have!

The Parelli Seven Games teach you how to interact with your horse in a constructive and playful way and at the same time allow you to exert your leadership in ways that horses understand. Dominant horses move other horses around and that's what the Seven Games teach you do to.

The game is "who moves who". If your horse can make you move your feet, he knows it's just a matter of time before he can knock you off your perch. Horses are persistent in their quest for dominance and they are not in a hurry!

When playing the Seven Games, use them creatively as opposed to playing the games the same way every time. Always playing them the same way turns the Seven Games into Seven Jobs, and bored horses start to get pretty inventive! Try playing the games with an obstacle where the horse has to do lots of different things, from jumping the obstacle, to stepping on it, to straddling it, going sideways over it, backing up on it etc. The only limit for you and your horse is your imagination!

Indulge The Talent

A horse who is mouthy and nippy is also showing his need for oral interaction. Play with his mouth a lot, and do more then he really wants. Rub vigorously with your hands, pull his lips around (playfully of course !), rub his tongue and even teach him to lead by the tongue (very advanced). Teach him to pick up your cap or a stick or a bucket, put this obvious talent to good use!

Stay Out Of The Nip Zone

Most horse nip because they are to close to you. Learn to move your horse out of your personal space with rhythmic driving actions, use your elbows and even do jumping jacks ! Horses with a tendency to nip also tend to crowd you, they are over friendly, pushy and self confident. Simply asking the horse to stay at a respectful distance can make a big change to his nipping behaviour. Remember, if they can't reach you, they can't bite you !

Don't Smack Em Back !

If you feel a nip coming on, back your horse up quickly and intentionally. This changes their mind because it's a dominant move on your part. Give up smacking. It doesn't work, and it can actually turn a nice horse nasty. Put more backing into your daily interaction with the horse and, above all, don't let him barge into your space.

Horses Only Bite People They Don't Like, Don't Respect Or Don't Trust

Remember, horses are prey animals. They are most concerned about safety. Some horses bite because they are scared or unconfident, others bite because they are trying to dominate. In both cases, improving the relationship works. Just like people, horses need to feel liked and respected. Success with horses relies on knowing how to develop and maintain friendship and respect. It's a balancing act. You can't make a horse respect you by punishing him, in fact, it does the opposite. Aggressive people may successfully cause a horse to stop biting but they don't win the horse's heart.

Become The Kind Of Person A Horse Likes, Respects And Trusts

Play a lot of friendly games. Get your horse to like you and have positive thoughts when he sees you. Bring him apples and carrots (as gifts, not bribes!). Understand life from his perspective, understand how he develops respect, and consider his needs.

Develop your leadership skills. Teach your horse to move around you, not the other way round! Remember, horses need an alpha, or they will assume the role.

Prove to your horse you are not a predator, and that he can trust you no matter what. There's a delicate balance between getting your horse to do as you ask and preserving his confidence.

By Samantha J Jane

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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Horse Training Secrets - What You Should Know

If you make a compilation about secrets on training young horses, you may finish with a book thicker than any dictionary. There has never been any shortage on tips related to training young horses; and like opinions, most of these advice may never have been proven to be right or wrong. Really, these facts are essential for horse trainers in their pursuit to build up a young horse's performance and physical characteristics.

For those who are new to horse training, the sheer number of tips on teaching young horses can drive them to madness. Some techniques and principles that exist can be conflicting to each other; and the confusion can be more evident. But to really learn about tutoring young horses, one has to be approachable to trying out various techniques by combining various horse training methods. Here are some of the most common but successful training tips for young horses that have been practiced by a lot of trainers for generations.

The average age that a horse can start learning is about five years old. Although at this age, horses are still very young and therefore should not be trained severely since at this age, a severe training program can do damage to their physical development. At this age, we should focus on letting the horse feel what it is like under the saddle.

All horse training regimen depends on the breed of the horse that you are teaching. Horses have slow and fast learners just like humans. For example, the mountain horse, which could be trained under the saddle as early as two years of age. Or the Arabians, which are notably slow on their development; Therefore, at two years old, they can barely be trained for anything yet. Even under one breed, individual horses still have their own development rate; knowing this will enable you to adjust your horse training program consequently.

While it is true that horses can start training at two or five years old, young horses should never undergo a training program that is intendant for fully-grown horses. Training sessions for younger horses must begin with fifteen to thirty minutes of training periods.

The training environment plays an important role in the training of young horses. For instance, deep layers of soft sand in the riding ring might not be a good idea for young horses because in order to move their feet out of the sand, they will have to pull harder. Also, an inclined training ground may put more stress to the young horse's developing legs; therefore, it's better to use a level field.

By Paul A Wiseman

This well known author is an Internet expert and really enjoys sharing his passion with other people. Discover more now about Horses and all about Horse Training idea at his website http://www.horseswebsite.com

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Horse Breeding Uncovered - An In-Depth Look At Breeding Horses

Feral and wild horses breed naturally with no problems, but the selective breeding of purebred horses obviously requires specialist human intervention. The mating of two such horses has to be carefully planned, in order to produce the favourable characteristics required. Human management of horse breeding also ensures healthier pregnancies and a more successful outcome for foaling.

In breeding terms, the male horse (stallion) is known as the sire, and the female (mare) is known as the dam. Each plays an equal part in the genetic make-up of any ensuing offspring, so it is important that both possess the desirable characteristics needed. This is especially important to professional breeders, who wish to produce good foals of a certain breed. It is also possible to mate two different types of horse in order to create a new breed, with its own distinctive characteristics.

In horse breeding, there are half-brothers and sisters (horses who share the same mother but have a different father), horses fathered by the same stallion (referred to as 'by the same sire') and ones that share the same mother and father (known as 'full siblings').

A horse owner needs to take several factors into account before deciding to breed the animal, such as:

- Does the breeding partner have excellent genetic qualities?

- Is the animal in good health?

- What purpose will any ensuing foal be used for? Will it be kept or sold on?

- What are the economic benefits for the owners of the sire and the dam?

Furthermore, the owner of a mare will have to take into account the extra added costs associated with seeing their animal through gestation and add to this the very expensive costs of nursing a foal. There are many things to consider, starting with the stud fee. After this, the pregnant mare will require adequate veterinary care throughout her pregnancy, and she will also need proper nutrition - both these things will cost the owner a substantial amount of money. Finally, there is the cost of caring for the foal and mother post-gestation to consider. When taking all these factors into account, it becomes apparent that it is difficult to make a profit from horse-breeding, especially for the mare owner. This is a major factor for horse owners, and many decide not to breed their animals due to the huge expense involved.

A newborn foal is worth approximately three times the cost of the stud fee, and would fetch this if sold immediately after birth. However, if the foal is kept for any longer period of time, the costs of caring for it far outweigh any profits. Sadly, foals bred without careful consideration may end up being sold at a loss, or worse still, being sold for horse meat.

To conclude, horse owners should give careful consideration to whether they wish to breed their animal, what their motivations are and how achievable they may be.

By Sid Levett

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To Be "Dewormed" Or Not To Be "Dewormed" - That Is The Question!

Truth And Consequences

I've been told, you have been told, and we have all been told that "all horses have worms". Likewise, we have been told that if you don't deworm your horse(s) EVERY 2-3 months you are a "bad" horse owner, right? Well perhaps no one actually called you bad - but you WERE shown all those horrible pictures of all those horrible worms and informed of all those horrendous consequences. Eventually you believed, I believed, we all believed! Fear and guilt are incredible tactics BUT notice I used the past tense believED! Why the change? For me it was merely a matter of just remembering the truth. I woke up from my guilt-like trance and remembered that way back when I first graduated from vet school all horses didn't have worms. I remembered that way back before easy to use, convenient paste wormers were available, at the most, we dewormed twice a year. I also remembered that most veterinarians did a fecal check exam on horses each time before we treated them. If they didn't have a positive test, we simply did not deworm! Exceptions were only the obvious need, like a "wormy" looking horse. Bottom line is many horses didn't have worms then and many horses don't now, either! So what changed along the way? Why is their so much indiscriminant deworming today? Has the change been good or bad for our equine friends? How about those daily "preventatives", are they really the answer?

Dewormers - The disease or the cure?

Horses that tend to have worms simply do - horse that don't tend to have worms, simply don't. Just like people - some people get sick all the time, some hardly ever, regardless of the exposure. If horses do have parasites, studies have shown that actually about two out of three horses will become reinfected in eight to ten weeks after deworming. When reinfected, those that initially had high numbers of eggs will continue to have high numbers. Those that had low numbers to begin with had low numbers later, too! So the parasites can be reduced with chemicals BUT they obviously just come back in "parasite prone" horses anyway. Could this be more of a genetic-type resistance in the horse rather than effectiveness of dewormers? In my opinion, the more you give chemicals the weaker the horse becomes, with a consequent tendency for many more problems. Have you noticed all the horses with allergies today? How about all the horses with chronic lung problems? Why all of a sudden do horses have a problem from being exposed to the opossum (EPM) when the two, horses and the opossum, have co-mingled for millions of years. Could our horses be weaker today? Noticed more laminitis lately? How about colic? There are certainly other contributing factors such as over-vaccination, improper nutrition, etc., but no doubt our horses are weaker today than they used to be. Many holistic oriented veterinarians like myself, truly believe we are damaging our horses. As much as this absolutely makes sense to me it may still just be my opinion. But facts are facts and it is a fact that parasites are becoming resistance to dewormers. The literature actually is reporting considerable resistance to wormers like Benzelmin, Panacur and Anthelcide. There is even resistance to Strongid (pyrantel pamoate) being reported. Noticed a price drop lately in these products? This brings to my mind the question, how effective are these "daily" products if resistance is already present? The only product that doesn't have resistance problems in equine parasites is Ivermectin. For goats however, it is a different situation - there is a lot of resistance to Ivermectin, and deworming goats these days is quite difficult. There is nothing left to use! This problem is coming for horses - What will we do then? What is the "cure" today may be the disease soon - especially if chemicals are weakening our horses, too! A recent article in a major Equine health magazine stated "custom deworming programs based on consultation of a veterinarian and fecal exams of individual horses will help postpone drug abuse, and thus drug resistance by common parasites". They went on to state a "looming disaster" if we continue deworming the way we do today. My feelings, exactly - we have a serious situation!

"As needed" deworming, the answer!

Hopefully you are getting the sense that "as needed" deworming may really be the answer. The key is to determine WHEN deworming is needed! The first step is to understand that each horse is an individual - each with an individual need and circumstance. Rather than just deworming by the calender, it is our responsibility to look at each situation. This may not be as difficult as it sounds and I assure you it will even be cheaper! Now, I imagine I have your attention - less money! Let's face it, saving money is important -- especially when you have 30 or so horses like I do and especially when it is not much more difficult. The answer is simply to check a fecal sample first before you deworm. All it takes is a thimble full of manure. Your veterinarian can do it for you. Most usually charge $10 -$15. Do expect a little resistance because they, too, have been exposed to the same myth that "all horses have worms" for quite some time. Most have said it so much and haven't checked in so long they too believe it as fact. Most likely they will try to just sell you a paste wormer. Yes it may be cheaper at the moment - but what if you did have a naturally resistant horse that simply didn't need deworming anyway? What if you had 10 of your 30 that didn't have worms? How about if they NEVER had eggs in the fecal material? I think you could not only save money, but also have healthier horses and definitely have fewer resistant parasites in the future. I once stated in an article that resistant parasites would soon be wearing a coat of armor oblivious to everything! I can't imagine trying to handle a real parasite problem under those circumstances. It is sort of like the antibiotic situation we will soon be facing if "modern world" doesn't wake up. The most "modern dewormer" today, Quest, will even kill your dog if he happens to get a hold of a little. How much stronger will they become?

I want to offer another solution - If you will mention this article, our lab will even check one horse for free with the purchase of EACH all-natural Worm Check™ product. That is putting our money where our mouth is! Inside each package is a mailer for the manure sample and a few questions to answer about each horse. Usually it takes six proofs of purchase to receive a free parasite exam with our product. This offer is quite a savings since the Worm Check™ paste only costs $14.99. You can use this free parasite exam to check either before you use the Worm Check™ paste, or any other product for that matter, or to test for effectiveness afterwards. Worm Check™ is an all-natural combination of several herbs that is proving effective on all species of parasites. Technically, however, it is not a dewormer but an herbal supplement in paste form. We have not proven it effective against bots because we have to kill the horse(s) to determine this - I just can't do that! The best time to check for effectiveness after deworming with any product is 2-3 weeks. If you have a horse with a large number of eggs it should be checked and dewormed regularly, as needed. These "shedders" are the real problem on most farms. New horses entering your farm should ideally be isolated for several days and checked prior to putting them into the group. Any horse showing clinical signs of parasite problems, i.e. that "wormy looking" horse, should always best be examined by your veterinarian. There are some stages of parasites that just don't show up in a fecal exam, regardless.

Which horses generally need deworming and which don't?

As we have stated, those that have worms need it and those that don't, do not, but there are a few general guidelines to follow. Young horses are more prone to problems associated with parasites, particularly roundworm impactions, whereas older horses are usually immune to round worms and other species, too, for that matter. A few horses on a large pasture would seldom have a problem because horses seldom pick where they have gone to the bathroom if they have enough room. This selective grazing is why wild horses seldom have a problem with parasites. Even horses in 12 X 12 stalls would seldom have a problem if the stalls were picked daily. Get the picture? Crowding is usually the culprit, and the obvious stress associated with it. Other important factors are time of year and where you live. The climate is a major factor in whether or not parasite eggs even develop into a transmissible state. Worms would not likely be a problem in a dry, hot area whereas if the season is warm and moist you might be more concerned. A really cold winter would put a damper on the problem, too. Another potential problem situation might be a horse that has been on a daily wormer most of his life. This horse would never have had the opportunity to develop any natural resistance. Also, it is easy to develop a false sense of security with these products and just never check them. Don't make that mistake - remember these classes of dewormers are the type that most parasites do develop resistance to. That is why so many of the newer "generic" ones are 2X, or twice the strength. One more note about such daily products: if you buy a new horse always ask the "daily wormer" history. Sudden exposure to a wormy environment with no resistance could be disastrous.

Our horses' future is in our hands.

I don't expect a lot of change - old habits and old myths are hard to put to rest. I also know I am not making many friends in the "drug" world - but then again my interest is our equine friend, not to "win and influence friends". It is up to us - you and me. If I knew something was wrong and didn't do anything about it, well..... that would even be a greater problem. Most people just don't know. So.... Will you help me tell them? I do ask you to consider checking fecal exams first before you deworm. Consider, too, the consequences if you deworm indiscriminately! Most importantly, start asking questions. A good question to begin with would be "is that drug or chemical really necessary?"

By Danny Clay

For More information visit our website http://www.YourHorseVet.com or contact Dan at info@YourHorseVet.com

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Weight Loss In Horses

Weight loss is a condition that many horse owners have had to deal with at one time or another. A horse that appears thin may be suffering from weight loss due to a number of causes. However there are three common causes of weight loss in horses: malnutrition, parasitism and dental disease.

If a horse is suffering from malnutrition then the number of calories it is consuming is less than the number it is using, it may also suffer from an incorrectly balanced diet. Causes of this include feeding poor quality feed, supplying inadequate amounts of feed or the horse maybe missing out on feed due to competition at feeding time.

Parasites can rob your horse of much needed nutrition as the parasites consume the nutrients or cause inflammation of the horse's gut leading to poor absorption of nutrients across the gut wall. A targeted parasite management program involving the use of appropriate dewormers given at the correct dose, combined with pasture management and fecal egg counts should minimise the impact parasites are having on your horses.
Dental problems can decrease your horses FCR or Food Conversion Ratio this is a measure of how efficient your horse is at converting feed into energy. The first two steps in digestion are prehension or picking up the feed and mastication or chewing. Any change in the efficiency of these two steps has a direct effect on the efficiency of the rest of the digestive process, as the rest of the digestive tract is only as efficient as these two steps. In severe cases loose, fractured or infected teeth can cause a horse to stop eating all together.

There are many other causes of weight loss in the horse, however the three covered above are the most common and should always be addressed when assessing a horse for weight loss. Other causes of weight loss can include but are not limited to tumours, disease of major organs such as the kidneys or liver, issues affecting hormone levels, inflammation of the intestine, chronic infection and stomach ulcers.

A useful tool in evaluating and reassessing weight loss in horses in to use a body condition scoring system. There are two main systems used one system grades horses from 1 - 5 with 1 being very poor condition and 5 being obese the other system grades horses from 1-9. The key difference between the two systems is the greater degree of accuracy of the 1-9 system.

Another tool that can help is the use of weight tapes although bear in mind that these are not always very accurate, alternatively if you are lucky you may live in an area where you vet or racetrack have digital scales you can use to weigh your horse more accurately.
While we are discussing weight loss in horses we should also talk about the dangers of a horse being too heavy. The same risks posed to people by being obese apply to our horses as well as a few of their own. Overweight horses have increased pressure on their joints and vital organs and are at risk of metabolic syndrome, which has been identified as a cause of laminitis (inflammation of the sensitive structures connecting the hoof wall to the pedal bone).

Overweight horses need a decreased calorie intake often combined with an increase in exercise.

By Shannon Lee

About the Author. Dr Shannon Lee is a an equine veterinarian who concentrates on equine dentistry. He has presented several scientific papers, provides lectures and tutorials to veterinarians and veterinary students. Advises government bodies on regulation pertaining to equine dentistry, and has an active role in research in the equine dental field. http://www.advancedequinedentistry.com.au

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Grass Clippings Can Be Dangerous To Your Horse

Grass clippings can be very dangerous to your horse. The potential for serious illness is high, so take precautions when collecting and disposing of lawn clippings.

There are many reasons why grass clippings can make your horse sick.

Choking Risk: Eating a big pile of lawn clippings is not the same as grazing. When a horse grazes, he must go through the motions of selecting, ripping, and thoroughly chewing grass. When faced with a great big pile of wet grass, a hungry horse may take big mouthfuls and end up with a wad of hay stuck in its esophagus. This condition is called choke and it's serious, usually requires the veterinary intervention.

Colic Risk: Additionally, lawn clippings will dramatically upset the balance of microbes in the hindgut, potentially leading to colic or laminitis.

Mold Risk: Damp, green clippings that have been left in a mower bag or pile begin to mildew and ferment quickly. Eating moldy, fermented grass can cause colic or diarrhea.

Respiratory Risk: Dry lawn clippings, on the other hand, can be dusty, triggering a reaction that leads to respiratory distress.

Toxic Exposure Risk: Finally, grass clippings may contain toxic chemicals or plants. Lawn care products are not suitable for use on pastures and therefore not suitable for consumption. And there are any number of toxic plants that may get mixed in with the grass clippings.

Mowing your pasture should not cause these problems. Usually, the clippings will dry quickly and be distributed throughout the pasture, eliminating the dangers associated with mold, fermentation and choke. The risk of toxic plant or chemical exposure is also eliminated. Horses can safely consume dry, well-distributed clippings along with the pasture grass.

By Moira Clune and Noreen Girao

Let Practical Horsekeeping show you how to become an efficient, effective equine expert! Moira Clune and Noreen Girao provide helpful horse care information with a practical twist at http://PracticalHorsekeeping.com/ Our free horse care ezine shows you the fastest, safest, smartest ways to care for your horse and create an organized, appealing environment that works for horse and rider! Sign up today and get our free, veterinarian approved Colic Preparedness Report that shows you exactly what to do in a horse colic emergency. Join us today at http://www.practicalhorsekeeping.com/horsecarenewsletter.html and start getting practical!

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Natural Horsemanship - Benefits For Horse And Human

Natural horsemanship training techniques are beneficial for the horse and the rider or trainer. Natural horsemanship techniques stress intuitive communication between the horse and its trainer. Such techniques make for a less stressful and more fun experience for each in the long run.

Lowered Expense

Keeping a horse is expensive! Vet bills, food costs, boarding costs, and equipment do not come cheaply. Just as people, plants and other animals tend to have better health if they are not stressed, and worse health if they are stressed, so do horses. Natural horsemanship techniques promote training that works with the horse's natural communication patterns and instinctive behavior. This assures that the horse will be more at ease during training, less stressed, and thus will likely remain healthier.

Specific natural horsemanship care techniques such as natural hoof care can also reduce expense for vet bills, food and medication. Horses that work barefoot are more sound and less likely to develop diseases such as thrush. The benefits of natural hoof care are realized most when horses are properly fed and exercised.

Better Movement

Horses trained with natural horsemanship techniques are trained to work with their rider and trainer rather than against. The philosophy of natural horsemanship is that horse and rider are a pair and must move in harmony. The pressure and release system of training used in natural horsemanship creates a strong communication link between the horse and rider, which allows even conventionally shown horses to move with more precision, grace and soundness. This higher quality of movement ensures that horses do better at shows, and are more comfortable to work with.

More Fun for All

Horses and humans each suffer from fear if training does not foster understanding and communication. Natural horsemanship puts those fears to rest for horses and riders/trainers. Learning to work one on one with a horse and communicate in "horse language," or the horse's natural body language takes some unpredictability out of working with horses. While a person can never completely accurately predict what a horse will do at any given moment, natural horsemanship techniques allow trainers to learn each nuance of their horse's personality. Everyone knows that pinned ears mean a horse is frightened, but what does that flick of the tail mean with your horse?

Working so closely with the horse will also allow it to get to know its trainer. If the trainer keeps with predictable cues and movements, the horse will learn to trust its trainer fully. With complete trust, the duo can do anything. If a horse trusts its trainer, it will be much more likely to try new things, and remain less stressed in new situations, making riding, showing and training more fun and relaxing for everyone.

More Benefits of Natural Horsemanship

The benefits to becoming part of the natural horsemanship community are endless, for horses and their riders and trainers. To learn more about natural horsemanship, and connect with others practicing the techniques, visit http://www.aanh.net

By Jeanine Lowry

Jeanine Lowry is the President of the American Association of Natural Horsemen. For more information, resources and a community of people practicing natural horsemanship, visit http://www.aanh.net

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How to Have a Great Trail Ride

There are lots of options for great summer vacations, but if you own a horse or horses, you might be considering a Trail Ride. Trail Riding is a great way to enjoy your horse, nature, and the company of friends. Along with all the fun of a trail ride, there can be some hazards and challenges. Things like lightening, the sudden appearance of a rabbit or deer, a washed out bridge or your horse's refusal to walk past something she's not used to seeing. You can't anticipate everything that may come your way, but you can start out as prepared and well equipped as possible. Here are some great tips to help you have a safe trail ride.

Plan ahead. Study any trail maps, plan your route and if you're traveling any distance, make arrangements for overnight lodging and trailer parking. Talk to the appropriate park rangers, trail guides or riding clubs about the local trail conditions. Keep an eye on the weather forecast.

Put together a pack of essentials to take on the trail ride. Things to include should be a map of the area, food bars, bottled water, waterproof matches or lighter, flashlight and tissue. Other things that are a good idea to include would be spare reins and tack, leather pieces for tack repair, a compass, flagging tape to mark your trail and a whistle to call for help, if needed. There are many remote areas where a cell phone won't work.

Before starting your trip, make sure your truck and trailer are in good condition for travel. Protect your horse's legs with shipping boots or pillow wraps. If your horse throws his head you will need a head bumper also, and take along a light blanket for travel in colder areas.

Once you're on your way, stop frequently to give your horse a drink, check his covering and body temperature and feed. Also, be sure and check your trailer hitch and safety chains to make sure nothing has loosened during the drive.

With a little planning ahead a trail ride will be a great way to spend some leisure time this summer.

By Darlene Anderson

For some great bargains on clothes for your ride The Cowgirl Boutique has a great selection of western clothes, boots, hats and accessories.

Darlene Anderson enjoys horseback riding and all types of western style recreation. She is the owner of a western clothes and accessories website: http://www.thecowgirlboutique.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darlene_Anderson

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10 Tips For Safe Horse Hay Storage

Store your hay for maximum use and nutrition. Don't let mold, mildew, rodents and weather ruin your hay!

Indoor Storage:

1. Keep hay dry. If you're storing it in a barn, be sure there are no roof leaks or water drainage problems.

2. Be sure condensation doesn't accumulate on the inside of the roof. A surprising amount of water can drip on your hay from a sweaty roof! Use a plastic tarp to channel water away from bales.

3. Keep an eye out for rodents. Rats and mice can contaminate your hay. Plug any entrances with steel wool. If you can't keep them out, cats and black snakes are great mousers!

4. Keep the hay off the floor. Used wooden pallets are available from many local businesses. They're often free for the taking and work perfectly!

5. Stack your hay for maximum air flow. Square bales should be stacked on edge with narrow gaps between rows. Be sure to check for heat in the bales by driving a metal rod into the centers.

6. Use older hay first. Pull old bales to the front or side before stacking in new hay, and feed older hay first before starting on the fresher supply.

7. As much as possible, keep bales in their compacted state. Broken bales expose the hay to air which will cause it to degrade in quality. Break off flakes to minimize air exposure.

Special considerations for outside storage:

8. When stored outside, hay must be stacked on pallets or some type of ventilated platform to keep ground moisture from infiltrating the bales. Be aware of seasonal wet spots!

9. Bales should be protected from sun and rain with tarps. Stack the bales in a pyramid formation to encourage water runoff.

10. Tarps also protect your hay from sunlight which causes rapid nutrient loss.

Hay needs to be stored properly for maximum safety, nutrition and usability. But no matter how carefully it's stored, always check each bale for mold or foreign objects. Never feed a horse hay that looks or smells moldy!

By Moira Clune and Noreen Girao

Let Practical Horsekeeping show you how to become an efficient, effective equine expert! Moira Clune and Noreen Girao provide helpful horse care information with a practical twist at http://www.PracticalHorsekeeping.com Our free horse care ezine shows you the fastest, safest, smartest ways to care for your horse and create an organized, appealing environment that works for horse and rider! Sign up today and get our free, veterinarian approved Colic Preparedness Report that shows you exactly what to do in a horse colic emergency. Join us today at http://www.practicalhorsekeeping.com/horsecarenewsletter.html and start getting practical!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Moira_Clune

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Buying A New Horse? Make Sure You Get The Right New Horse

If you are considering buying a new horse, there are several issues of concern to you. Smart buyers and riders know what they want before speaking to horse sellers.

It is important to know everything you can about the new horse. Learn its history, blood lines, habits, preferences, skills and overall attitude. It is also important to find out about its inherent traits. All horses have their own unique traits. Know which ones are most desirable to you.

Traits to Consider

Some horses are better at certain tasks than others. When buying a new horse, pre-determine what skills you want the horse to possess. Some to consider are:

• English riding

• Showing and jumping

• Racing

• Western riding

• Trail riding

• Roping

• Team roping

• Barrel racing

• Endurance

Questions to Ask Before Buying a Horse

How much do you expect to pay? Look only at horses within your price range. What gender, color, age and size are you looking for? Weed out horses that don't fit within your requirements. Does the horse load and unload from trailers well? Will it tolerate shoeing and hoof trimming? Score your prospective horses on a scale of one to five for these items. The higher scorers will help you determine which horses are of the most interest to you.

When buying a new horse it is important to be sure it has been thoroughly evaluated. An initial inspection of the horse must be performed by someone capable and experienced. If you don't know what to look for, bring someone you trust who does. Here are the areas you need to check:

• Eyes. Make sure the horse can see out of both eyes. Do a flinch test by waving your hand quickly in front of each eye. Check for any differences.

• Ears. Check for excess ear wax or over-sensitivity when the ears are touched.

• Mouth. Check for any lesions or sores. Be sure the teeth are normal and aligned. Watch the horse chew to check for normal biting ability.

• Head, neck and chest. Check for symmetry and balance of muscles. Be sure the horse moves its head, neck and chest freely and without difficulty.

• Feet. Inspect all four feet for swelling and sensitivity to touch. Flex and extend all joints to look for pain, resistance or head lifting that indicates pain or discomfort.

• Rear end. Check for good tone, signs of discharge and signs of diarrhea.

• Lameness. It is imperative that you are able to observe the horse trotting in circles in both directions and in a straight line. Watch closely for irregular bobbing of the head, sloppy movements or skipping that may indicate pain in any of the legs.

If the horse has passed your initial evaluation, it is time to take it for a ride. Observe its stamina, nerves and whether or not it is alert and well behaved.

If you have any doubts, either walk away or arrange an agreement based on the findings during the veterinary examinations. This is common practice and a legitimate horse seller will agree to some reasonable terms.

Be sure the three required exams are performed by a veterinarian of your choosing or one that has a neutral opinion. The required exams are:

• Health certificate, which is usually for crossing state lines.

• Insurance exam, to satisfy mortality and other questions related to insuring the horse.

• Pre-purchase veterinary exam, detailing the medical status of the horse at the time of purchase.

When buying a horse, you want to find one that is healthy and has a good attitude. The horse's experience and dependability levels must closely match, or be above, that of the primary rider. A willing and intelligent horse can be trained to bring you years of pleasure and skilled work habits. Choose your horse wisely.

By Rachel Harding

Rachel Harding has been riding horses since she was five. Sign up for our free newsletter and get all the information you need at Horse And Rider Info

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rachel_Harding

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Horse Training - An Exciting Career

Like any career be sure that is really want you want to do before registering for horse training course, you must answer the following questions truthfully.

1. Is horse training your passion?

2. Have you participated in horse shows and watched horse races before?

3. Are you willing to gain new information about the kinds of horse feeds on the market, as well as the required dietary allowance for each type of horse?

4. Do you mind grooming horses every day?

5. What do you think if you are asked to talk to them? The reason for this is, studies have shown that horses obey more through human contact, especially the human voice.

6. Are you encouraging?

7. Can you be a leader?

8. Would you be able to put tacks or harnesses on the horse in order for them to be habitual to the tools?

9. Are you willing to ride the horses and to observe their behavior with each temperament when required?

10. Are you going to be calm when training them?

Why do you have to answer the ten basic questions? These questions are usually asked by horse training instructors to whoever that like to be around horses. It is important that horse trainer is there because he wants to because it can be very dangerous being around horses.

There are usually some expectations from each horse trainer when you choose horse training as a career because it is just like any other career. Mostly the owners would like the trainer they chosen to handle their beloved horses can stop from kicking, resisting grooming and bolting every time their reins aren't secured.

You must know you job as a horse trainer even before you choose horse training as your career. Therefore when answering the ten questions, answer truthfully. As a horse trainer you are responsible to teach the riding, driving and racing techniques to the horse. If you can bestow the horse the knowledge, the plan training as well as the techniques, you are doing your job well as a horse trainer. The owners have the option to pay independent operators or have their horses put at a training school. Whatever their choice, horse trainers are in demand.

Finer breed of the horse are more expensive. Even the ordinary ones are expensive. Since it is a good investment there are some horse trainers who are knowledgeable about the mating of horses pair up a stallion to a mare, depending on the horse type, in order to come up with a good breed of foal.

Horse training as a career can be a good choice which will give you good returns but you must love what you are doing. That is the bottom line.

Getting as much information on the basic care for your horses is important, make sure you check Heidi Edris' excellent free report on Horse_Training_Aids

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Fatima_Edris

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Does Your Horse Diet Need Fats?

Horse supplements with added Fats or (EFA's) Essential Fatty Acids should be an essential part of your nutrition program. Look at the label to make sure that they are in the ingredient list as many supplements omit them. Feeding EFA's alone is okay, just make sure that the product is fresh, look to see if there is a manufacturing date, or just smell it. Old oils turn rancid which changes the make up of the oils and your horse doesn't gain all the benefits and it smells terrible.

EFA's are important for many biological processes in your horse's body. The fats are critical for production of hormones, cell membranes and for the absorption of fat soluble vitamins A, D, E, and K. Your horse's body metabolizes these fats into tri-glycerides which it stores as an energy source or it can be used as an immediate source of fuel.

Feeding of fats can help your horse in many ways. The obvious one is the healthy, shiny hair coat; however, more importantly is the dense source of calories which provides the energy. Calories from fat are 2.5 times greater than the calories from proteins or carbohydrates. Horses fed EFA's in the morning slowly metabolize and utilized them throughout the day providing the needed fuel.

Is your horse considered a "hard keeper"? Most horses will benefit from the addition of fats to the diet as it slows the digestive process and helps to stabilize the blood sugar and provides a calming energy source. You will notice a gradual weight gain and even a better temperament due to the lack of sugar related mood swings (yes, they do occur in horses just like humans).

Another benefit is that fats produce an anti-inflammatory process in your horse's body which helps to fight off infections and build up the immune system. Also, the fats make the feeds more palatable for your horse. These unprocessed and unrefined oils provide a pleasant aroma and taste to your horse whereby you can reduce the amount of molasses fed (reducing diabetic tendencies) and reducing the dust factor of the feed.

What type of Essential Fatty Acids should you be feeding your horse to gain all these benefits? One of the more important factors is to make sure the fat is unrefined and unprocessed. A pure and highly digestible oil is a soybean and coconut oil blend called Cocosoya Oil. This cocosoya oil is naturally high in tocopherols (Vitamin E) and sterols and is crude unrefined oil with no chemical solvents. The natural phospholipds and tocopherols of the soybean are retained in the oil which is the highly nutritious solid portion of the oil. The cocosoya oil is much more digestible than the ordinary corn and vegetable oil and costs less.

If you want your horse to have a shiny, show quality hair coat year round, along with all the nutrition and energy necessary for proper body metabolism and growth make sure your supplement contains cocosoya oil.

By Audra Jensen

Audra Jensen has 70 head of horses at her barn and feeds a daily supplement to attain ultimate health for her horses. To learn more about horse supplements with EFA's, visit: http://www.totalsupplements.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Audra_Jensen

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When Horses Get Depressed And Emotionally Unbalanced

I'm a Farrier in the Bay Area California for about 17 years now. Shoeing horses is a great thing for me as I have helped many horses from lameness and bring about much recovery. When horses feet are correct horses know it and I love it when I see horses become happy and better adjusted from my efforts, blood, sweat and tears. Sometimes though horses are just not happy animals, the following story is just such an example.

A big beautiful paint horse i have shod for the past 12 years for the most part has been easy for me to shoe. The horse "always" was not just quite right though. Usually she would bobble on her back feet while I shoe the front and she would always side step when I approached to shoe the rear. However it was nothing serious enough for me to become alarmed or too concerned - until the other day.

It was time to shoe High (the horses name) so drove out to the ranch where she lived. She is a nice horse - haltered her up and walked back to the shoeing platform. I nearly always start with the front feet (they are usually more important as horses carry so much more weight on the front end). I pulled the front shoes off and started trimming and as usual High started bobbling on one rear leg which makes working on the front feet quite a difficult task. So as usual I sort of bark out the command "Quit"! She usually responds favorably, however this time it was very different.

High went into a "Depression". I have never seen such a thing before in my 17 years as a Farrier. She started to hang her head and go into a depression, so much so that I could not reach her emotionally. She would not respond to my verbal input at all. This was a serious problem now - not just because she was still difficult to shoe but because the poor horse is basically "Unhappy" and emotionally ill adjusted. I felt real sorry for her.

I know the owner pretty well and know how High is usually ridden. She does not really get ridden much but when she does she usually gets ridden quite hard - and the owner is a rather big man - probably about 6'3" and I would say 245 pounds. High is a great horse but could use a little more love in her life. She lives with one other horse in a smallish pasture where she really doesn't have the opportunity to run freely. Life could be better for High.

Well I felt a serious need to help High. Unfortunately she was in such a deep funk I could not reach her - she would not let me in - she was completely checking out of reality. When I pulled on her lead rope she got worse. When I tried to get her attention she got worse. I had to do something and what I knew would work have to be done or she would carry around her psychological issue for a long time.

I had to snap High out of her problem. I made a quick surmise and decided to use a tool that is very effective. I place the little tool into her mouth over the gums on the top and utilize the pressure it is designed to do and I proceed to "Get into her head". I command "Back" - lethargically she backs. I command "Back" again. She is slipping deeper into her funk - so I needed to become more firm and direct. The backing continues successfully firmer with each command until - somehow - she starts to pay attention and snap out of her depression. She blinks as if coming out of a ten year funk and finally picks herself up emotionally and psychically. AWESOME!!

She is acting like a horse for the first time I have known her. She is displaying true horse behavior. She is more alert, paying more attention to her environment and is more "Here and Now". I finish shoeing her- it was great - she was much better behaved as if she understood so much more now.

Several weeks later I met up with her owner and asked him how High was as they had just come back from a week long riding event. He told me she was AWESOME and that he had not had such a good ride on her before. You see she learned, and I taught her a valuable lesson - "How to care about herself". Horses are amazing animals and can sometimes have amazing issues. In the worst of cases horses can be worked on and shown the way to improvement. It is an awesome experience to be with horses, they give us so much and they deserve so much in return, that's why I love horses.

Reprint rights allowed providing nothing is changed.

By John Silveira

Author Bio: John Silveira, Farrier, Aikido practitioner, spiritualist, born and raised in San Mateo California the bay area. For information on his shoeing method and the 16 year 100% track record "Not One Single Lame Horse" just go to http://Farrieritis.Care4Horses.com a thank you and remember to Care4Horses.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=John_Silveira

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