When Horses Get Depressed And Emotionally Unbalanced

I'm a Farrier in the Bay Area California for about 17 years now. Shoeing horses is a great thing for me as I have helped many horses from lameness and bring about much recovery. When horses feet are correct horses know it and I love it when I see horses become happy and better adjusted from my efforts, blood, sweat and tears. Sometimes though horses are just not happy animals, the following story is just such an example.

A big beautiful paint horse i have shod for the past 12 years for the most part has been easy for me to shoe. The horse "always" was not just quite right though. Usually she would bobble on her back feet while I shoe the front and she would always side step when I approached to shoe the rear. However it was nothing serious enough for me to become alarmed or too concerned - until the other day.

It was time to shoe High (the horses name) so drove out to the ranch where she lived. She is a nice horse - haltered her up and walked back to the shoeing platform. I nearly always start with the front feet (they are usually more important as horses carry so much more weight on the front end). I pulled the front shoes off and started trimming and as usual High started bobbling on one rear leg which makes working on the front feet quite a difficult task. So as usual I sort of bark out the command "Quit"! She usually responds favorably, however this time it was very different.

High went into a "Depression". I have never seen such a thing before in my 17 years as a Farrier. She started to hang her head and go into a depression, so much so that I could not reach her emotionally. She would not respond to my verbal input at all. This was a serious problem now - not just because she was still difficult to shoe but because the poor horse is basically "Unhappy" and emotionally ill adjusted. I felt real sorry for her.

I know the owner pretty well and know how High is usually ridden. She does not really get ridden much but when she does she usually gets ridden quite hard - and the owner is a rather big man - probably about 6'3" and I would say 245 pounds. High is a great horse but could use a little more love in her life. She lives with one other horse in a smallish pasture where she really doesn't have the opportunity to run freely. Life could be better for High.

Well I felt a serious need to help High. Unfortunately she was in such a deep funk I could not reach her - she would not let me in - she was completely checking out of reality. When I pulled on her lead rope she got worse. When I tried to get her attention she got worse. I had to do something and what I knew would work have to be done or she would carry around her psychological issue for a long time.

I had to snap High out of her problem. I made a quick surmise and decided to use a tool that is very effective. I place the little tool into her mouth over the gums on the top and utilize the pressure it is designed to do and I proceed to "Get into her head". I command "Back" - lethargically she backs. I command "Back" again. She is slipping deeper into her funk - so I needed to become more firm and direct. The backing continues successfully firmer with each command until - somehow - she starts to pay attention and snap out of her depression. She blinks as if coming out of a ten year funk and finally picks herself up emotionally and psychically. AWESOME!!

She is acting like a horse for the first time I have known her. She is displaying true horse behavior. She is more alert, paying more attention to her environment and is more "Here and Now". I finish shoeing her- it was great - she was much better behaved as if she understood so much more now.

Several weeks later I met up with her owner and asked him how High was as they had just come back from a week long riding event. He told me she was AWESOME and that he had not had such a good ride on her before. You see she learned, and I taught her a valuable lesson - "How to care about herself". Horses are amazing animals and can sometimes have amazing issues. In the worst of cases horses can be worked on and shown the way to improvement. It is an awesome experience to be with horses, they give us so much and they deserve so much in return, that's why I love horses.

Reprint rights allowed providing nothing is changed.

By John Silveira

Author Bio: John Silveira, Farrier, Aikido practitioner, spiritualist, born and raised in San Mateo California the bay area. For information on his shoeing method and the 16 year 100% track record "Not One Single Lame Horse" just go to http://Farrieritis.Care4Horses.com a thank you and remember to Care4Horses.

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Horse Training Secrets - What You Should Know

If you make a compilation about secrets on training young horses, you may finish with a book thicker than any dictionary. There has never been any shortage on tips related to training young horses; and like opinions, most of these advice may never have been proven to be right or wrong. Really, these facts are essential for horse trainers in their pursuit to build up a young horse's performance and physical characteristics.

For those who are new to horse training, the sheer number of tips on teaching young horses can drive them to madness. Some techniques and principles that exist can be conflicting to each other; and the confusion can be more evident. But to really learn about tutoring young horses, one has to be approachable to trying out various techniques by combining various horse training methods. Here are some of the most common but successful training tips for young horses that have been practiced by a lot of trainers for generations.

The average age that a horse can start learning is about five years old. Although at this age, horses are still very young and therefore should not be trained severely since at this age, a severe training program can do damage to their physical development. At this age, we should focus on letting the horse feel what it is like under the saddle.

All horse training regimen depends on the breed of the horse that you are teaching. Horses have slow and fast learners just like humans. For example, the mountain horse, which could be trained under the saddle as early as two years of age. Or the Arabians, which are notably slow on their development; Therefore, at two years old, they can barely be trained for anything yet. Even under one breed, individual horses still have their own development rate; knowing this will enable you to adjust your horse training program consequently.

While it is true that horses can start training at two or five years old, young horses should never undergo a training program that is intendent for fully-grown horses. Training sessions for younger horses must begin with fifteen to thirty minutes of training periods.

The training environment plays an important role in the training of young horses. For instance, deep layers of soft sand in the riding ring might not be a good idea for young horses because in order to move their feet out of the sand, they will have to pull harder. Also, an inclined training ground may put more stress to the young horse's developing legs; therefore, it's better to use a level field.

By Paul A Wiseman

This well known author is an Internet expert and really enjoys sharing his passion with other people. Discover more now about Horses and all about Horse Training idea at his website http://www.horseswebsite.com

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Horseback Riding Tips - The 5 Fundamental Horseback Riding Tips Every Horse Rider Should Know

There are always some kind of hints or tricks that can make something that might seem so difficult end up seeming so easy. There are gardening tips for those with a black thumb, there are cooking tips for those who aspire to have their family not run when you say that dinner is ready and then there are those who just want to be able to stay on a horse. Those are the ones that could easily benefit from some of these horseback riding tips:

Tip1 - Don't go about riding like you're stomping snakes. You want to approach your horse with a gentle tone and manner so that they feel comfortable around you. I don't like people yelling at me for no reason and neither does a horse.

Tip 2 - If you are a new to horseback riding, remember that no matter how much money you spend on those fancy clothes or boots, they're going to get dirty. And the good news is that getting them dirty can be really fun. Also, money doesn't make a good rider. I've seen some of the best riders in the world wear pants and boots with holes in them and a shirt thin enough it's only there to keep the flies at bay and I'd give my eye tooth to ride half as good as they do.

Tip 3 - When you get on a horse you should always use the left side of the horse. Many horses are only trained to have a rider get on from the left side and might freak out if you get on the right side (I've actually seen that happen to people). This is just one of those things that is the way it is because it has always been that way in all horseback riding ranches.

Tip 4 - If you don't want to get out of the saddle with a sore back remember your horseback riding posture. It's never been good to sit all slouched over at any other time in your life and sitting on a horse is another time when it's just not appropriate. You're back will end up sore and it can mess up the rest of your body posture such as the way your hips are in the seat and the way that your feet are in the stirrups.

Tip 5 - Never, ever put your foot too far into the stirrup. I put some emphasis on this horseback riding tip because if you fall off of your horse with your foot shoved all the way in the stirrup nice and tight, odds are if you fall off you will be dragged behind the horse. I'm sure that you all remember the old westerns with the man being dragged by the running horse. When you put your foot in the stirrup, my rule of thumb is that you want the ball of your foot just about centered on the bottom of the stirrup. That way your toes (of course inside your boot) should just barely be out of the stirrup and the majority of your foot is out and should be pointing down. You don't want your heel set above your toes as that might lead to the foot slipping into the stirrup further. But if your heel is slightly lower than your stirrup your foot should stay right in place where it belongs.

I hope that you were able to benefit from these horseback riding tips. They are ones that were always pointed out to me by my trainer when I was young and I have found them to still hold true today.

Did you know that 90% of falls and horse related injuries result from an inexperienced rider? Don't let this happen to you. Take a few minutes to learn the essential horseback riding and horsetraining methods practiced by experts for generations which are guaranteed to improve your horse riding skills.

Clinton Lyons has been raising foals and horses for over 35 years. He is a professional horse trainer and expert horseback riding instructor. Visit his website to learn more about horse training and horseback riding here: http://www.horsetrainingranch.com

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Ten Steps to Buying The Right Horse

In shopping for a horse there are a few basic rules to meet success. Do yourself a favor and read this guideline if you want a smooth transition into your next purchase of an equine. All buyers interested in horses are interested for different reasons. The most important thing you can do for yourself is know yourself. Knowing yourself will ultimately lead you to understand what you need to aim for in finding the "right" horse. For instance, if you have never owned a horse before don't buy a untrained horse or a young one for that matter. The market right now is such that you can find a well broke experienced horse for a good price. Also understand a horse will not train you, you need to find someone to help you learn how to become a good rider and a responsible horse owner. A well trained horse makes this transition a lot smoother if your new at being a horse owner.

Here are some steps to go by.

1) Figure out exactly what you want in a horse. Figure out the breed your aiming for, the level of training you want them to have, their age, their past experience, mare or gelding, and what you want to do in the future with this companion. If you are buying your ten year old daughter a pony will the pony still fit her in four years? Will she be able to compete with her like friends when they all have quarter horses? What is in her best interest now and in the future.

2) Start looking around to see what meets this description. Look locally, look on the Internet, ask a local barn that specializing in your area of interests.

3) Once you find a prospect start asking questions. Lots of questions. Past history, vet check-ups, how they do in a trailer, how do they respond to a bath and most importantly how often is this horse worked with? How do they respond to vaccines? What do they feed him or her? Are they in a pasture, a stall, a horse facility. What do they do when they are in a stressful situation? Bring a friend that is horse savvy with you. This is important, because it will give you a different perspective.

4) Make the owner ride the horse first and watch how the horse responds and how the owner complies with the horse. Ask the owner of the horse to load the horse in the trailer just to see how the horse responds. Pick up the horses feet. Lead the horse around at a jog to see how they respond. Then if your comfortable take a ride yourself, but wear a helmet. Have a friend video tape it and if your concerned about anything take the tape to a respected trainer and ask them what they see. Suggestions they might have?

5) Ask for vet check. It is worth the investment. If you buy a horse and it ends up lame in a week your "new" horse won't be worth as much as you paid for it. Also it will allow you to see if the previous owner has been up to date on teeth floating, trimming, ect. It will also give you a little time to really think about the decision your about ready to make. If the horse passes with flying colors I would recommend having the vet back out to give the horse it's vaccines and worming it before it's transported. You will be responsible for the bill so be prepared for that.

6) Ask the owner of the horse if they have sold any other horses in the two years. If they have get the name of the buyer and call them to see if their transaction was positive. Ask if the owner was honest about the horse.

7) If everything lines up then this is the one. I might wait a few weeks to make sure the vaccine becomes active and then it's time for safe transport.

8) Prior to pick up ask if the horse comes with anything. A records book? A halter (do you need to bring your own), a blanket, anything? So you are prepared when it's time to pick the horse up.

9) Once your horse has been purchased. Ask for all their vet records. If their vet has them ask for a waver so you can access them today and in the future.

10) Have the owner fill out a bill of sale and get a signature and date. Head on down the road. You got yourself a pony!

Understand that you can not predict everything when you buy a horse. That you can only do as much as you can to ensure that you made the most knowledgeable decision possible.

By Fiona Stone

Fiona Stone of StoneRidge Farms

http://stoneridgefarms.org

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Enforce Obedience - Gain Your Horse's Trust And Respect

A well-broke horse is a joy to work around. A horse that always tries to get his own way can be a nuisance. They can also be dangerous. Proper training can put the respect back in a horse and make him more enjoyable to work around. Training shows a horse that it is easier and more comfortable to do as we ask than to do otherwise. A horse should respect you and your cues, not fear them.

I've compiled a list of handy tips that if used consistently, should put the respect and trust back in your training program with a minimum of effort. As your horse gains in respect and understanding, you'll find that he tests you less and less, making him easier and more enjoyable to work with.

If you are leading a horse and he tries to drag you, walk past you, or pull the rope from your hand, stop him and make him back five to six steps. Ask him to walk forward. Repeat the correction as needed. Once he understands that he will get corrected each and every time he tries to drag you, he will stop trying.

Teach a horse to respect you and your cues on the ground and that will carry over to work under saddle. If you teach a horse to respect a verbal "Whoa!" command from the ground, he should also respect that command when given from his back.

If you teach a horse to lead respectfully along side you, loading into a trailer should no longer be an issue. He will learn that he must go where you direct. "No" is not an option.

Use the law of opposites. If you've asked your horse to stop, and he tries to walk forward, make him back four or five steps. If you ask him to stop, and he turns to the left, turn him twice as far to the right. If he moves to the right, turn him twice as far to the left. If he wants to go forward, make him back a few steps. Enforce that you , not he, choose the direction of travel. You are the driver, not a passenger. Do not "give in" because it is easier. That teaches a horse that he can ignore your cues. It will become harder and harder to make your horse obey if you don't enforce obedience each and every time you ride.

Remember that long standing habits will take more than just one correction to cure the horse. Do not get mad or punish him, just repeat the correction for as long as it takes. (It may take weeks, even months, but continue correcting each and every time.) Given enough time, most bad habits can be broken and replaced with good behavior.

If a horse refuses to cross an obstacle, dismount and hand walk him over it. Lots of patience may be in order, but spend the time until he will cross. It may mean that you have to hand place a foot, rub his neck to praise him to tell him he responded correctly, hand place the next foot, praise him, etc. Do not give up and let him win, but be sure not to get angry and react in anger. Patience is a virtue. Spend the time today to show him what you want. It takes as long as it takes. It will be shorter tomorrow, and even shorter the following day. If a horse trusts that you will never put him in a situation that will hurt him, and that he must always obey the go forward cue, you'll find the horse will not only learn to cross that same obstacle, but many of the others that you place in front of him. Go forward means go forward. You are building trust and respect.

Ask a horse to do something three times, then go on to something else. Asking more than three times can cause a horse to think that he is being corrected. Asking a horse to perform the same maneuver over and over will make him sour on that maneuver. If that was his best maneuver, soon it will become his worst. He will learn to hate it if you ask him to repeat it over and over.

The easiest way to train a horse to do anything is to reward good behavior. You must let a horse know that he has done what you are asking of him. If you teach a horse to back up, and he takes a half step back, immediately release pressure and praise him. A small step today becomes a big step tomorrow and two steps on the following day. Ask three times and go on to something else. Ask again the next day. Training takes time!

If you ride in arena, and your horse tries to cut towards the center to make the circle smaller, make him circle to the outside, in the opposite direction from that in which he chose. Small circles are uncomfortable for a horse and he will try to avoid that which causes him to be uncomfortable. Make three tight circles to the outside, then continue around the arena. If he cuts in again, repeat the correction. If you correct him, each and every time he cuts in, he will learn that it is easier to stay on the rail.

Any time you correct your horse, remember that you have three seconds or less to correct him so he will associate the punishment with the "crime". If you miss that three-second time frame, wait for the next time he misbehaves. Waiting longer than three seconds to punish a horse will confuse him. He will not understand what the correction was for.

Begin each ride with a short session of walking. This is not only good for a horse's physical well-being, but it keeps him thinking mentally slow while you mount and begin each ride. A horse that is taught to walk off will seldom try to run off while you're mounting.

End each ride by walking. Walking for four to five minutes after each ride allows the lactic acid (which builds up in the horse's muscles) to dissipate so he is not muscle-sore the next day. It also lets him unwind mentally. This will teach him to begin and end each ride slowly and calmly.

Never dismount by the gate. A gate becomes a magnet to a horse. Many horses stop at one in anticipation of you getting off. Dismount in a different area every time that you ride. Keep him guessing as to when the ride ends!

Enforcing obedience develops a successful partnership between horse and rider. He learns what you expect of him and you learn what he will give. Always use a fair and consistent approach that enforces obedience and thoughtfulness. Both you and your horse will benefit. May all your rides be safe and enjoyable.

For more information on obedience, visit http://www.CompleteHorseSource.com/articles.html

To interact directly with the author to solve any obedience problems,

visit http://www.CompleteHorseSource.com/goldlevel.html

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Four Ways to Teach Your Horse Respect

Respect. These seven letters are absolutely essential to a happy, healthy and enjoyable relationship with your horse. Whether your vision with your horse is of precise dressage circles, long ambling trail rides or eventing, if you don't have respect on the ground you won't have it in the saddle. Gaining your horse's respect is a simple and essential part of horse ownership that helps you build a strong relationship with him, and it starts with understanding why your horse is the way he is.

Understanding Your Horse's Needs

Horses belong in a herd; evolutionarily speaking, horses are prey animals that benefit from numbers. In a running herd, predators have trouble focusing on and bringing down a single animal in a group of 20. An essential part of this herd is its hierarchy. If you spend a day watching your horse in the pasture with other horses you will see constant movement; at first this movement may seem random and aimless, but if you look closely you will see that all movement begins with one horse that sets off a chain reaction among the others. Horses will move and shift constantly, from patch of grass to piles of hay to watering trough, moved around by the boss of the pasture; while your horse may favor one section of grass or area of the pasture, the boss can move him off at will, pinning her ears and lowering her head, perhaps with a snaky, swaying movement or teeth bared, moving towards what she wants with very pointed energy. If your horse does not move when presented with these obvious physical signs, the boss will proceed with more physical interventions, biting or kicking to get the reaction she is looking for. If there are horses lower in the hierarchy than the horse that was moved off, that horse will proceed to move another horse, and then another, and so on until they have all moved to a different patch of grass or pile of hay.

The hierarchy of the dominant horse is fairly stable but can change; even something as simple as putting on a fly mask or a turnout blanket can shake up the herd and result in squeals, kicks and challenges until things settle down again with a (sometimes) new boss. As uncomfortable as it may look from the outside, horses feel safer when they understand who is in charge and where they fall in the ranks of the herd. A lead horse not only says who eats what, when and where but also keeps an eye out for predators and keeps track of new foals; this horse also controls the speed and direction of movement in the event that the herd needs to run from a predator.

A Herd of Two

A horse's need to feel safe as part of a herd's hierarchy does not diminish when it is just you and your horse, and there is only one safe way for you two to form your own herd: you must be the boss. If you do not assert yourself, gaining (and keeping) your horse's respect, you will become the owner of a horse who is (or becomes over time) pushy during feeding time, pushy when being led, pushy under saddle and pushy in general. Eventually you will have a dangerous horse that cannot be trusted on the ground and certainly should not be trusted under saddle. Your horse needs direction and guidance, and if he does not get it from you he will assume he is the one in charge and act accordingly. Where to Start

When we think of getting our first horse, most of us have images of saddling up and riding, galloping across an open field on a sunny day, or completing a lightening-fast barrel run or dressage pattern or meandering along sun-dappled trails through the woods. Reality is something quite different. If your goal is to build a relationship with your horse that will last their lifetime, the first step is building respect, and respect begins on the ground. For the purposes of this article, we will assume that your horse's most basic needs are being met so that he is receptive to this type of basic training. Your horse should be on a sound and regular feeding schedule designed to keep him at optimum health, and even if you have adopted or purchased a horse that is weak from hunger or illness, you can still address some basic respect issues without harming your horse. If you are unsure, check first with your vet to get the go-ahead, and then proceed slowly, being mindful of your horse's comfort and building from there.

For all exercises that follow, remember to repeat them from both sides of your horse's head, and make sure to practice them regularly and consistently; stay calm and firm when you ask you horse to do something, and reward even his smallest try. A horse that lowers his head and begins to lick his mouth or make chewing motions is a horse who is thinking about what you are asking him to do, and this is what you want: a thoughtful horse. If this is your first time doing groundwork, remember that you are training yourself, too; as you work with your horse, your body language and cues will become clearer and easier to understand, and your horse will relax and follow your lead.

Basic Exercises

The purpose of these first exercises is to show the horse that you control their feet (direction). Going back to the example of the boss horse moving the herd away from their food, remember that the boss was able to get the other horses moving with eye contact and body language. So that's where we'll start. You are looking to get maximum response from minimum pressure, so start small and increase your motions until you get a result, then back off instantly.

Many professional trainers recommend using a rope halter with two knots over the nose, and a ten-foot lead rope. The reason for the rope halters as opposed to a basic web halter is that a stubborn horse can lean against a web halter, effectively resisting your cues and making it nearly impossible for you to feel their slightest try. In a shoving match, your horse will win, and that is not the goal in the first place. You are looking to get maximum response from minimum pressure (a "light" horse), and a rope halter helps you to give smaller cues first and feel the response more quickly than a nylon halter. Do not wait to start until you have a rope halter; groundwork for respect should begin the second the first hoof hits the property! You can always get a different halter later.

There are four basic exercises for respect: backing, releasing the hindquarters, releasing the forequarters and leading.

Backing

Backing is simply getting your horse to move backwards out of your space on command. Not only does backing reinforce the very basic requirements of respect (for the horse to move away when you ask him), but it also makes him safer to approach in the pasture and during feeding time when you ask him to move away from gates or his feeder. There are two basic ways to back your horse: standing at his side beside his ears, or cuing him from in front of his head, facing him.

For the first method, start on either side of your horse, holding a couple inches below the clip on the halter in one hand, and the rest of the lead rope in your other hand (remember not to hold the rope in loops, with your hand in the middle). Putting slight pressure on the halter, step toward the horse's shoulder. You are looking for one step backwards from any foot. If you need to, jiggle the halter slightly with the hand holding the clip and/or add additional pressure back towards the shoulder. Do not hesitate; be firm and sure. Do not release the pressure until your horse steps backwards, then release it instantly. The release of pressure is their reward for doing the right thing. As you progress, your horse should be taking more steps backwards, with more energy and less pressure. This requires patience and persistence. Eventually you want to be able to step towards their shoulder and have them back until you stop. Whichever side you start on, remember to move to the other side of your horse's head and repeat.

The second method is adapted from several different natural horsemanship trainers; each trainer puts their own particular spin on this method. A rope halter does work best with this method, but again it is not required.

Stand in front of your horse's head, just slightly off to one side (you do not want to be in their blind spot directly in front of them, but you also don't want them to move to one side), about four feet away. The first step to this may leave you feeling a little silly; make eye contact with your horse, and think to yourself as hard as you can "Back up." Try to convey just through eye contact the same thing the herd boss would, to get out of your way or else. If your horse does not respond to this (and many will not the first time out), start to gently wiggle the lead rope with one hand while making "sh-sh-sh" noises. Your horse's head may come up slightly, and his ears may prick forward; his listening. Again, here you are looking for one step backwards. Gradually increase the motion of your wrist and the lead rope so that the halter may end up rubbing all over his nose. This is very unpleasant for your horse, and he will want to move away (back!) from it. Do not move towards him; wait for him to move away from you. The second he steps back, stop all wiggling and noise and praise him. You may have to wiggle the rope with pretty big movements at first, but he will figure it out quickly to escape the rubbing halter. As you progress through this exercise, his head should come down when you ask him to back, with very little pressure required. With this method you may be able to get your horse so light and responsive that he backs when he hears the noise!

Work on backing (either method, or both to mix it up) as long as it takes him to take as many energetic steps backwards as you need; go as slow as your horse needs (be patient) but remember that you are establishing your role as the dominant "horse" in your herd of two. If your horse knows what you are asking but lazily moves back on his own time, or only gives one or two steps, increase the pressure until he does what you are telling him to do. The idea is to first ask, then show, then tell him what to do.

Troubleshooting

If you start with a horse that really has no respect for you or your space you will need to march him out of your way at first. With the lead rope in one hand and a dressage crop (or similar crop or training stick without a whip attached) begin marching in place, swinging the crop out in front of your knees and really exaggerating a high-stepping march in place, with hands pumping up and down as well; establish a rhythm in place (while your horse looks at you like you are crazy), then begin marching toward him. Continue your rhythm. If your horse does move, he will get the dressage crop on his chest and a hand on his chin. Your goal is not to hurt your horse, but he needs to know you are serious, so if he is not moving by the time the crop reaches him, make sure he feels it. This is the same as the herd boss baring his teeth and biting out. You are not being mean or beating your horse; if you cannot get him to move out of your way he poses a real threat to your safety. He must understand that you are not to be run over or stepped on, and this teaches him that lesson.

Next Steps

After your horse takes multiple, energetic steps backwards with minimal pressure from you, try backing over trot poles, or try varying the direction by moving your focus further back on his body to his hip (so he'll swing to one side or the other). Once he has learned to back and respect your space, keep his refresher training sessions short and effective so that he stays engaged and willing. It is best to apply these skills to real situations, so after you catch him in the pasture back him for a few steps when you open the gate, or back him into his stall at night.

Releasing (Disengaging) the Hindquarters

The second stage of gaining respect by controlling your horse's direction is getting him to release his hindquarters on command. A horse that is soft and supple in the hindquarters is a horse with beautiful lead flying lead changes, instantaneous sidepass, seamless direction changes and a spook that happens in place, instead of down the road. Some trainers will have you work on lateral flexion (bending their heads softly to one side or the other) prior to moving the hindquarters, but this method can get you moving their feet before they are completely flexed in the neck. As you work on perfecting this you can add lateral flexion, but as our goal is respect and establishing you as the dominant horse, we'll start with movement of the feet and add flexion in next steps.

Start on the near (left) side of the horse, facing his head and standing behind where the girth would be; hold the lead rope in your left hand and place your right arm on your horse's back, without crossing over to the other side. Apply pressure to the lead rope by pulling back slightly, just until your horse turns his head; once the horse turns slightly, release the pressure and let him straighten up. Repeat at least three times on each side. The goal in this case is to get your horse flexing to the side, not to touch their side completely; you just want to see their eye facing you. After the third time, hold the horse's head slightly flexed, drop your right hand down to the side where a rider's heel might ask for movement, and bump his side slightly with the heel of your hand, keeping gentle pressure on the lead rope. Here you are looking for your horse to release his hindquarters, crossing his left hind leg in front of his right hind leg. At the beginning, look for just one step across, and not a shuffle; you need to see one leg cross in front of the other one, not just shuffle around. When you get it, instantly stop bumping and release all pressure, praising verbally and rubbing the spot you were bumping with your hand. Repeat this exercise as many times as necessary to get that one step with light pressure. Eventually you will have a horse who releases quickly, pivoting on the front legs. Remember to practice this on both sides of the horse, and alternate releasing the hindquarters with backing.

Troubleshooting

If your horse moves forward as he releases, he is really just walking a circle around you, and you are looking for a swinging hind end. Release some of the pressure on the halter, as he may think you are trying to walk him, and raise your hand in front of his eye to stop him from walking toward you. Make sure he can feel you bumping his side; you're not playing patty cake. You should definitely reward the try, but make sure your horse understands you mean it when you tell him to do something. You can also step towards his hindquarters with a big movement, and he should move out of your way.

Next Steps

When your horse releases his hindquarters with minimum pressure, pivoting or moving very little with his front legs, add a backing exercise to the end. Give him a little more lead rope, and when he swings to face you, begin to back him up using whichever method works best for you.

Additionally, for a good stretch, you can begin to ask your horse to flex his neck in either direction to touch his side. Stand beside your horse either facing his body or his head, close to the point of his hip, drape the end of your lead rope over your horse's back. If you start on the near side, slide your left hand down the lead rope towards the clip, and when you get about a foot and a half away, pull back and slightly up towards the withers (this is where you would pull towards in the saddle). When the horse stretches back towards his side by any amount, release instantly and let him relax for five to ten seconds before flexing again. Sometimes you can tickle their whiskers if (they have any), and they will reach further; other trainers suggest you take their head in one hand and their tail in the other and get them to stretch to touch their tail. For any of the flexing exercises, a rope halter is almost imperative; a stubborn horse will lie back on the webbing and wait patiently for you to stop asking. If that happens, bump the lead rope slightly and get ready to release if they try even a little. You always want to end on a positive note, right as the horse is working with you and attentive.

Releasing (Disengaging) the Forequarters

Now that you have your horse backing smoothly and releasing the hindquarters lightly, it's time to work on the front end. If the hind is the engine, the front is the steering wheel. Gaining control over your horse's forequarters will give you more confidence when you mount up; he will know you mean business when you are directing him because you laid the foundation of control on the ground.

Stand on either side, approximately parallel to your horse's ear, maybe a little back. You do not want to be too far back, as your horse will feel like you are driving him forward, and you don't want to be too far in front of him, as he will think you are asking him to back up. With the lead rope in one hand, making sure he has enough room so you aren't pulling on his face, but not so much room that he can just move away and avoid the action, raise your hands to eye level, and begin to rhythmically wave both hands toward him. His head will probably come up to avoid your hands; try to keep them at his eye level. If you horse is especially tall, you may want to add a crop or other training stick to lengthen your arm. Again, you are looking for one step, this time one front leg crossing over the other. Increase the pressure every five or so waves by making them move bigger, or thumping on his neck. Your goal here is not to hurt your horse but to imitate the boss in the pasture; when you say move, he needs to MOVE and NOW. For some horses, this may mean a thump or two on the neck, but do check yourself and make sure you are increasing the pressure because it is time, not because you are frustrated.

Troubleshooting

If your horse backs up when you are asking for the release, that is okay; he is trying to figure out what you are asking him to do. Do not increase the level of pressure; stay with him, and keep asking. When he stops backing but still does not respond then you can increase your pressure.

If your horse moves forward to run away from pressure, immediately back him 10-20 steps and start over again. Make sure you are not standing too far back (so your body language is moving him forward), but do not otherwise let him move forward. He is entering your space unbidden, and that is not safe.

Next Steps

Once your horse smoothly releases from both the front and the back, alternate between them; release the hind, then release the front. See if you can get him to release by just looking at the point of his hip or his shoulder. Back in between releases, and make sure to praise and give time to rest. Leading

The final exercise for gaining your horse's respect on the ground is teaching him how to lead safely. The reasons for the exercise need little explanation; you cannot have a horse that runs up over you, cuts you off, or steps on your feet when you cross in front of him. In the wild, the dominant horse is truly the one in the lead, and all others follow.

If you watch ten different people with their horses, you will see ten different styles of leading. Some people lead with their horse's head in front of them; some lead walking next to their horse's poll; some lead with the rope looped around their horse's neck; some lead with the horse far behind them. For the purpose of gaining respect, you will learn to lead with your horse behind your right shoulder; if your horse is behind you you will be able to cross in front of him without pushing him out of the way, and he will have space to come to a stop without running over you.

To start, back your horse out of your space and make sure his attention is on you. Hold the lead rope loosely across your right palm with about three feet of lead between you and your horse (hold the remainder in your left hand, loosely coiled). The reason you keep your palm open and some rope between you and your horse is to show him that you trust his ability to follow you, and to not keep him so tightly trussed to you that he cannot move. Remember that as a flight animal, a horse's instinct will make him pull away if he feels trapped, and holding him right under his chin or too close to his halter could produce that feeling. Turn your back to your horse, with your shoulders squared. Look in the direction you are going, and in one smooth movement, step forward with the right foot, click with your tongue, and move your right hand forward slightly. To stop, plant both feet and either say, "woah" or blow out through your mouth, hard. You can add a slight squat to this if you like (similar to the motion of trying to stop your horse in the saddle by sitting lower). Walk in circles, making sure to keep your head up and eyes facing where you want to go (your horse is reading your body language from behind), with your horse behind your right shoulder.

Troubleshooting

If your horse is not used to following, or is high strung, or does not quite get the idea of staying out of your space, he will run up on your shoulder or try to surge ahead of you. Do not let him do this; be consistent. Stop and back him up, then start again, or lead him in a circle, either in front of him or just to the left away from him. Do not let him lead you, and do not let him place you beside his shoulder. When he does this, he has told you that you are his inferior, and he'll do the leading around here, thank you very much. Back him off and keep him out of your space. Travel short distances at first, and always reward the try.

Next Steps

Long, rambling walks, respectful bonding time: these are your next steps. Practice leading your horse safely wherever you go, and be consistent with his position.

A Respectful Horse, A Happy Horse, A Beautiful Relationship

These are the most basic exercises you can start working on immediately to build a strong relationship with your horse that is based on respect and trust. You will always come back to the basic principles behind them, just as the boss in the pasture reasserts her status from time to time. Combined with bonding over grooming (find his itchy spots!), observing your horse in the pasture and relaxing hand grazing, these simple exercises will strengthen your relationship on the ground, laying the foundation for a long and lasting bond with your horse.

By Suzannah Kolbeck

http://www.localequine.com is a wiki dedicated to complete, accurate and helpful information on all aspects of horse ownership; readers can peruse the information or join and login to add events to the calendar or recommendations for everything from barefoot trimmers to lesson barns to riding trails to books and other training resources. Currently focused on the southeast, LocalEquine plans to expand up the east coast and west to eventually include local, updated information for all of the lower 48 states. Our goal is to create a community of horse owners who are committed to the holistic care of their equine friends, whether they are free rescue horses or $150,000 Thoroughbreds.

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10 Tips For Breaking And Backing A Young Horse

When I started writing my tips for breaking a young horse I thought I must be mad, what did I know? There are loads of experts out there all offering advice and I was just a humble horse owner, not a trainer etc. Then I decided that if my story helps anyone to have the confidence to work with their own horse then I believe they will find it a rewarding experience and it will be beneficial to both the horse or pony and themselves.

Backing, Breaking and Training a young horse. Well its something that we are told is best left to the experts and to some degree I agree, as you can do a lot of damage to a horse at such a young age, but with the right support and information I do believe you can make a good job of it.

Its easy to say leave it to the experts but for most of us our horses and ponies are part of our family. We are the one's who are with them every day and the one's who have built up mutual trust and a bond with them.

I took a break from owning my own horse for about 15 years. Then found myself, in my naivety, being the proud owner of a 2 yr old filly. I fell in love with her, what more can I say, but she was 16.1hh and very powerful. A lot could have gone wrong. I did contemplate sending her away when the time came, to have her professional broken, backed and schooled. There were several problems with this idea though. Number one was the cost, I just didn't have the money to do that as the quotes I had attained were extortionate. Number 2 was this was my horse, I had spent hours and hours in the stable with her, bonding, grooming and just sitting there gaining her trust. I didn't want to send her away and lose all that. I knew she trusted me, she would follow me around the paddock like a dog, if I ran she would trot after me. Quite scary when you have a 16.1hh thoroughbred chasing you. I had never read a natural horsemanship book, but I realised that this was just what we were doing.

I also discovered she had never been walked off the yard, boxed, lunged or had a bit anywhere near her. I figured it was going to be a long drawn out process.

In reality I couldn't have been more wrong. Although I did take things very slowly I found backing her to be extremely straight forward.

I used a lot of common sense, sought loads of advice from local tack shops and the people on the yard, and read as much information as I could find including everyone else's tips on breaking a young horse. A lot of the techniques and equipment had evolved from when I had had my last horse. So I had to learn what to do with it again.

The things I learned and my 10 tips for breaking a young horse are:

1. Spend time bonding with your horse or pony, don't just rush into breaking it. You will need time to build up mutual trust.

2. Learn your horses moods. Learn their normal behaviour and pick up when something is wrong.

3. Spend time before you try to back your horse getting it used to basic commands, both on the lunge and long rein. Stand, walk, trot will be invaluable once your horse is first backed.

4. Introduce the bit slowly - don't just expect to put it in your horses mouth and leave it there for hours. Try a few minutes at a time over several week and get a bit suitable for a young horse. I used a copper key bit.

5. Introduce the saddle without girth, stirrups and leathers to begin with and remove again after a few minutes.

6. Before you even think of putting someone on your horses back get the horse used to wearing the saddle and bridle on the lunge or in hand.

7. When lunging the first few times in tack make sure stirrups and leathers are not flapping around and spooking your horse.

8. When you do introduce someone on their back ensure you are the one who is talking to your horse, after all you are the one who is built up the trust.

9. Try to get someone light to be the person who first sits on your horse. Start with them just lying over your horse and then gradually sitting. Make sure every movement of the rider is slow a fluid. Again make sure this isn't rushed and is done over weeks.

10. Take backing your horse or pony slowly, take the lead from the animal. If they are looking stressed or anxious or are really misbehaving stop. There is generally a reason.

It took me about 2.5 months to back my horse from only ever having a head collar on to gently hacking out with me on her.

I introduced everything bit by bit and talked to her constantly. It might seem a long time to some people but I was left with a well adjusted horse who doesn't get stressed or act up very often. She takes the lead from me and will attempt new things because I firmly believe she trusts me.

Make sure you are safe at all times and that someone is with you if necessary who is more knowledgeable but don't be afraid and take the lead.There is no excuse when horse breaking to be cruel, and remember animals including horses are not born bad, they react to what we as humans do to them.

By Rachel Harding

You can get more information and advice regarding horses at horse bits and pieces At horse bits and pieces you will find all the horse and rider equipment you will ever need.

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Getting Into Your Horse's Mind

Let's look at some of those insights into a colt's or horse's mind. A colt is not born knowing that a bump from your legs means to go or that a pull on the reins means to stop. Those are all things that must be taught to him before you can advance his training. A lot of this can be taught on the ground before you do mount, making it easier for the colt to understand what is expected of him. After a colt has become comfortable carrying a bit, I run the rein through the stirrup and tie it to the back dee ring of the saddle. I always start loosely so the colt doesn't feel trapped by the sudden pressure by using a very small amount of bend.

I walk circles with the colt at first to show him what I want and how he can release the pressure on his mouth. After a few days, he learns it is to his benefit to follow the bend. Tying his head side to side teaches him to give to the bit and to follow his nose. When he pulls against the bit, it creates pressure in his mouth. When he gives to the bit and follows the bend, he immediately rewards himself. There is no room for human error such as not releasing the pressure soon enough. Releasing pressure is the best way we have to communicate to the colt that he performed correctly. When you ride this colt, you continue using the same pressure/reward method and he will turn left and right with ease. The same is true of teaching the cluck, a verbal sound, to trot, and a kiss to lope. The colt learns that these noises mean to go in the round pen and he'll associate those same noises to go under saddle. Prepping the colt in this way leaves him only to learn to balance your weight in the saddle as he learns that your legs in conjunction with the cluck or kiss means to go.

When mounted, be sure that you remain calm and quiet. Do not let your body tense as your colt will feel it. He'll think that because you are afraid, he should be afraid. This is true of the first ride or of the first "scary" bridge. Ride as if you expect him to be as calm as you are. He gains his confidence from you. If you see a truck or dog or bicycle coming at you, act as if it is nothing to fear and he'll remain as calm as you are. Your body language as you ride is perhaps that most important part of starting a colt. Stay calm and quiet so he remains calm and quiet.

Horses learn "spots" or a certain area. They remember these places, whether it is a place to stop, to change gait at, or to spook at. They learn a spot to trot at easier than they learn the cue to trot. They learn the gate is a place to stop if you always dismount at the gate. Vary your stopping place or where you change your gaits and these spots will never become a habit. If your horse has spooked at a particular area before and you tense your body because you are afraid that he will spook again, he'll feel your body and assume that he should be afraid. He will spook again. Remain calm for a few rides past that point, and he'll learn it is nothing to fear. A horse is used to following or obeying the "boss" horse. You must take over that role in his life. He is happier letting you make the decisions. He trusts you to tell him where to go and he relies on you to tell him it is safe to go there. Your body language does all of this. Ride confidently.

As you train, it is what you do last that a colt remembers best. When a colt does well and you dismount which is a big reward for a horse, he assumes he did well and is getting rewarded for what he just did. It got you off his back so he could return to his pasture or stall. This is a large part of my training theory. Never dismount when a colt is acting badly. Remain calm, insist on obedience, and go back to an earlier step if you must. Break each training segment down into smaller parts and slowly, over days if necessary, ease your way back to the step he got flustered at. Training takes time. A horse will willingly give you everything he's got if you train slowly ands methodically. Always end on a good note. Every time that you get off, that is what he remembers best. Remember that you are rewarding him for what he just did. Be sure that it is memory that you want!

Another theory that I use in my training program is "What you teach today, he will learn tomorrow." A horse thinks and absorbs what he was taught over night. He may not grasp the concept today but when you ride tomorrow, you will see that he begun to understand what you want. Use that theory to your advantage. Don't push today for something that he will give you willingly tomorrow. Give him time to think about what you have taught him.

Using that same theory, if you push a horse to perform the same thing over and over, thinking that you can force him farther along than he is, you'll find that the horse begins to change what he is doing. What he started doing so well will soon become something that he does badly. Because you push him to repeat it over and over, he thinks he has done something wrong. He will try to do something different because you keep asking. He is trying to understand what will cause you to stop asking. Ask him to repeat something three times and then go on to something else. Let him think on it tonight and ask again tomorrow. Accept small steps of progress. Give him time to learn that he will get rewarded when he does something right. It will make him try harder to please you, knowing he'll get rewarded for doing so.

Enforce obedience as you ride. When you ask a horse to perform, you must commit yourself to following through. For example, if you ask him to lope and he trots, and you let him trot instead of enforcing that he lope, you have just taught the horse to ignore your cue to lope. When you ask him to go straight and you let him wander sire to side, you have taught him that he doesn't have to go straight. Some things you have to break down into smaller pieces for him to learn, yet you always enforce obedience. He must do it to the best of his ability at that time. Beware of what you just taught the horse. Every time that you ride, think, "What have I just taught this horse?" Did I enforce good habits? Or create bad? The release of pressure is what every horse strives for. Release of pressure, whether it be of your legs, your reins, or of pushing the horse to perform, is what a horse is after. Releasing pressure within three seconds of good behavior tells a horse that he performed correctly. Correcting bad behavior within three seconds is just as important. Time your rewards and corrections. For this reason, you must know what is acceptable and what is not. Think through each and every ride. Plan your ride for tomorrow.

Work both sides of your colt so that he doesn't become right or left handed. A horse's brain does not connect as ours does. What you teach on the right side must also be taught on the left. If a horse spooks at something on the left side and then learns it is safe to pass it, but then spooks again on the right side, he has to relearn it on the right side. He is not being bad, that is how a horse's brain works. You must also condition both sides of his body. He must stretch one side of the muscles on his body and compress the other and visa versa. A horse can become one sided quite easily if you fail to work both sides. He may start out stiff on one side, but it will get better with time. He is not doing it to annoy you.

Ride as often as you can for it is that time together that bonds horse and rider. He learns to trust you and you trust him. You learn each others signals and secrets. When a horse and rider become a team, the lightest signal tells a horse what to do. Often, you can just look where you want to go and the horse obeys without a cue from you. Follow the tips in this article, look at my books on starting colts, and offer suggestions for future articles. Until then, happy training!

Understanding how a horse thinks can give you valuable insight into training techniques. This is especially true as you begin to start a colt under saddle. I give you a lot of insight into a colt's mind as I wrote my book, "10 Steps to Starting your Colt". You can order this book at www.CompleteHorseSource.com, as well as the book, "9 Steps to Preparing your Colt to Ride." Following the steps outlined in these two books gives you my 30 day training routine at Silver Creek Farm, Athens, Texas to get a colt started under saddle

By Laurie Truskauskas-Knott

Article written by Laurie Truskauskas-Knott

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The Horse Market

The war stories abound in this time of a severe downturn in the horse market brought about by the closure of the kill plants in the U. S. and the passage of bills by the Congress and the states that limit what you can or can not do with your horses. BUT-there is still a market for horses if you will do several things. This writer has written for several years that this was going to happen and made suggestions about what you should do to combat this.

I live in an area that has a large population of Amish and Mennonite horse people. There is also a large population that is still trail riding and doing other recreational riding. The market for those horses is good if not excellent. Good riding horses or harness horses are bringing very good prices. From $1500 to several thousand. The horses that are bringing next to nothing are those that are not broke, are not of good conformation and do not have the pedigree to accomplish anything.

For years the price of horses depended on the price of cattle. If cow prices were high so was the price of horses. But they were cheaper than cattle and as such they were attractive to the European market that does not have the same view of horses as the US. In fact, during WWII, we ate horse meat and did not die from it. Since that time, the minority groups have stepped in and created romance stories and myths about the horse in North America. The wild horses that exist in the US today are so far removed from the Conquistador's horses that there is not any resemblance to them in blood or type. The wild horse today is the cast-off of the horses that the early settlers and ranchers did not need or could not use for one reason or the other.

With the falling dollar, apprehension that there may be a recession and environmental conditions in many areas, horse owners are trying to sell, give away or otherwise dispose of their horses. These are the very same horses that were supposedly worth lots of money a short time ago. In former times, these animals would have gone to Europe and the market would have adjusted to fewer animals. Now the rescue groups are buying them and then trying to resell them to the public by adopting them out. And the hobby horse breeders keep on producing animals of little or no value and flooding an overstocked market, driving prices even lower.

If the average horse owner would try to be more innovative and find different ways to market their product as well as reducing the number of horses they produce, they will survive the current downturn in market conditions. Let me suggest a few ways that may work for you.

The deflated dollar can work for you. The overseas market that hesitated to invest in US horses before, can and will buy horses now. Why? Their dollar will buy a better horse than before. But that horse must have those qualities that set it apart from the rest. Here in the states, studs and mares that are by leading sires are still bringing very good prices. The ones that are not are by studs that have not done or produced anything worth noting.

The upcoming stimulus package and the low interest rate should be used to improve your business. If you are not a business, that may be one of your problems. Instead of being a farm, consider becoming a business. You can do so much more if you are an S Corporation or LLC than if you are not plus you can shield your assets. You can depreciate the horses that you buy for use in your program, farm equipment, trucks, trailers, your computer and supplies, barns and arenas, plus much more. You can expense your feed, farrier, show expenses, office supplies and the list goes on and on. While your profit may be minimal, at least you can show a profit in most cases.

You may want to geld old super stud, making a useful gelding that has some value in the marketplace. You can always breed the mares to a stud that has done something and thereby increase the value of the foals. In case, you have not noticed, geldings are bringing better prices than fire-breathing studs, halter broke broodmares and those horses under 18 months old. The well broke gelding will always be in demand. In fact, horses that have some sort of training will bring a better price regardless of the market.

If you have excess stalls or pasture with available hay, consider letting the Animal Control people know that you can take care of X amount of horses. As time goes on, there will be a greater demand for that type of facility. While you won't get rich, you can generate income in addition to your present income. Once it becomes known that you take in horses, you will have more horses than you wished. Get a bill of sale for each horse that you take in or you may have to share the proceeds with the original owner. If possible, charge the owner for taking in the horse. Pick the horses that you take in. Do not take in every horse just because it is free.

Those with serious health or mental issues are not worth dealing with. Suggest to the owner that they have that type of animal euthanized. They will moan and groan but it is still the logical thing to do. This brings up the next opportunity if you have the land. Set up a horse cemetery for these owners. Sell them a plot to bury their horse and charge an annual fee for grounds upkeep. It may be a better alternative to the rendering plant for many horse lovers. You can become a retirement facility providing complete care for the aged horse providing for his last years and then bury him in your cemetery.

I am sure that there are many other ways to deal with the horse population and as time goes on, people will think of them. The NAIS system will come to pass and gives us a better estimation of the true horse populace in the US. It will severely limit the switching of registered animals. It will be used by registries to identify horses that they register. It will be used to track animals in and out of a country and identify those animals that carry disease or genetic defects. The states that tax the sales of horses will be able to do so more easily.

Remember in order to increase the prices that people have to pay for horses is to; 1. Decrease the numbers of horses, 2. Produce horses that have a better pedigree and 3.Become more active (either pro or con), in promoting the changes that will occur in the horse industry.

By M. R. Bain

M. R. Bain has been a horseman all his life and a professional trainer since 1955. He is an owner and breeder and has been employed as a breeding and stable manager. His intent on writing these articles is to educate horse people on how to operate a successful horse business. You may contact him at MRBain@businessofhorses.com with your questions and comments.

He has written a book titled, 'The Business of Horses--Creating A Successful Horse Business' It is available from the author or at your bookstore.

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Horse Facts - Why You Should Watch Your Horse's Weight

Your horse's health is your responsibility. No if's, no but's, it is completely and entirely down to you to ensure that your horse is well. There are many factors that you have to be aware of when you care for any animal. Generally speaking, animal behaviour and development should always conform to a certain course and your horse is no different.

As a horse owner you have to be confident that you are checking for the right things and taking action to rectify problems that may go wrong before they become an issue. You must make sure that you are doing whatever is necessary to ensure that your horse is growing healthily, and being brought on in a way that gives him everything he needs to develop into the best horse he can be. You have to pay close attention to your horse as he develops There are many things that can go wrong and he can't tell you. You need to know him well enough to spot them. If you haven't owned a horse before, you should get some suitable books and read up on them, then spend some time at your local stables talking to the people who care for the horses, rather than just going for a ride, talk to other horse owners and to your vet. Find out what you need to look for, make yourself familiar with the common problems. If you don't know what to watch for, you might not be able to recognise the symptoms.

Your horse's weight is always a good indicator of how healthy he is. There are many different breeds of horse, and they differ in size within the breed, but when you own a horse, you should find out from your vet some idea of the ideal weight, If you suspect your horse may have a problem, check his weight. Even if you don't have any concerns it does no harm to weigh him regularly and make a note of any fluctuations. You will spot dramatic changes quite easily but a steady decline might only show up with a regular 'weigh in'. If your horse loses a lot of weight in a week or so, it is a fair indicator that something is wrong, and you must contact your Vet immediately.

With most animals, and horses are no exception, sicknesses can develop in no time, and they can become too ill to save almost before you have noticed that anything is amiss. Even a small weight change over a short period can indicate a problem before it is full blown, especially if his eating habits change. If your horse is being weighed on a regular basis, you will be able to tell if there's a problem relatively quickly. If you can weigh your horse on a regular basis, you are going to have a very much better chance of spotting anything that goes wrong which, in an extreme case, could save your horse's life. Most good stables have a scale, if you stable your horse at home speak to the owners of the local stables and arrange to use theirs. Failing that you can always use a public weighbridge, it's not ideal but it's better than nothing.

This is a very simple precaution but it will contribute to the well being of your horse with little effort on your part, and you should have many happy years of riding out together.

By Tane Moores

Tane Moores has been riding since a very early age and has long been involved in all things Equestrian. The experience and knowledge gained over many years of involvement in the world of horses is freely shared with anyone who cares to read. Tane writes regularly on Horse Facts and Equestrian Sports at The Easy Equestrian

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Equine Flu - Diagnosis, Treatment and Prevention

Introduction: Equine influenza ('flu') is probably the main respiratory infection affecting horses. It has a worldwide distribution, and can cause a severe illness in some cases. Fortunately, prevention is possible with current vaccinations. This is a very current topic, with a recent outbreak in Australia in August to October 2007. This continent had previously been unaffected by equine flu, and the outbreak appears to have spread from imported Japanese stallions.

What is Equine Influenza? This is a severe respiratory viral infection, with a short incubation period of 3-4 days, and a rapid worsening of symptoms. It is particularly likely to spread rapidly in overstocked situations.

The virus is spread by inhalation of water droplets via the nose, and then causes damage to tissues lining the respiratory tract. It can cause death of large areas of the lining tissue or mucosa.

Symptoms: These include high temperature, clear nasal discharge, dry cough, and swollen submental lymph nodes (under the jaw). In addition, you may notice that your horse has depression & lethargy, a clear eye discharge, a poor appetite, and a reluctance to drink There may even be a degree of swelling of the limbs, with a resultant reluctance to move. Occasionally secondary pneumonia can occur, especially in the very old and the very young; this can lead to death.

Causative Agent: The Equine-1 (H7N7) and equine-2 (H3N8); influenza A is a subtype of the latter. Unlike the human influenza virus, which changes every year, equine flu virus has more stable subtypes. Horse flu viruses were only isolated in 1956.

Occasionally carrier status occurs in equines, when an incomplete immune response to infection has occurred and the virus has not been eliminated. Such horses are shedding virus and infectious despite appearing well.

Current Western Treatments: Affected horses need complete rest for at least 6 weeks. It takes 1 week to recover at best, but 6 weeks for any mucosal damage to be reversed, hence the need for a longer period of rest. During recovery, it is important that any stable used must have good ventilation, with minimal dust levels. Mucolytic agents & antibiotics may be necessary if secondary infection occurs.

Complementary Therapies: Supportive care can help, such as reiki, spiritual healing, crystal healing, acupressure, shiatsu, and aromatics. These can help the horse's immune system and ability to heal itself. The aromatics (animal aromatherapy, whereby the animal chooses remedies on the basis of scent and taste from a selection offered) may have specific effects on resistance to infection and the release of supportive hormones.

Prevention: Influenza vaccines have been available for many years, and initially only provided protection for a few months. Current improved vaccines protect for 10-15 months. Vaccination is given as a primary course of 2 doses, 3-6 weeks apart, followed by boosters at 6-12 month intervals. Side effects are rare, and may be due to inflammation at the injection site, occasional allergy, or general poor well - being.

Certification of flu vaccination may be needed for horses that travel or compete

Homeopathic nosodes may be helpful in preventing influenza. Nosodes are created from the equine virus by diluting many times in water. The water then holds the memory of the molecule, which may be enough to stimulate an immune response. There tends to be a lower side effect rate with nosodes, but there is limited evidence of their efficacy.

By Alison Grimston

Dr Alison Grimston is a holistic doctor and animal healer with a website that helps to inform the public about complementary animal therapies while connecting animal therapists worldwide. http://www.TheNaturallyHealthyPet.com

Copyright (c) 2008 The Naturally Healthy Pet.com

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