Tracing Your Horse's History

Anyone who has owned an older horse, who has no knowledge of their breeding or background and has grown to love that horse, must surely wonder where he or she came from? What did they do in their past? What happened in their lives that shaped their likes and dislikes?

In pre-internet days there wasn't a lot you could do to find out but now we have access to email and on-line searchable databases, it means the horse industry is literally at our fingertips!

If your horse is a particular breed then you may be in luck, try contacting the breed society in your state and hope something turns up. Your horse might have come with a show name or brand which is registered (or was registered in the past), which may reveal his breeding and a little about his history.

If your horse is an ex-racehorse, then you are definitely in luck in your horse is from Australia. You can visit http://www.studbook.aust.com and do a search on his official racing name. It should reveal his sire and dam, his date of birth, racing history and earnings.

For standardbreds, visit http://www.harness.org.au which will give similar info.

If your horse is branded, then you need a good description of that brand. Letters and numbers are clear enough but symbol brands need to be accurately described, copy the brand down on a piece of paper, or take a clear photo when the horse has his summer coat in, or when the area has been clipped.

Most states have brand registries, including some online searchable databases. You can find a comprehensive listing of brand contacts at:

http://www.horsedirectory.com.au

Click on "Horse Resources" in the left hand menu, then "Horse Branding/Brand Marks Identification" which will direct you where to try next.

You can also contact your local EFA branch in your state and check if your horse has been registered in the past. Another good site is at: http://www.horsecouncil.org.au

They have a comprehensive links section, plus a listing of most breed organisations and societies in Australia.

But Say Your Horse is of no Particular Breed

Where do you start your search?

Your first contact should be your horse's previous owner, ask them to tell you everything they know including where they got him/her from. Then you might be able to trace him right back through a succession of previous owners and discover a wealth of info. However people move, change phone numbers and seemingly disappear into thin air. What then?.

One idea is to post on some local horse forums, they usually allow you to upload pictures.

You can also try Yahoo horse groups, if you spread the word far and wide, it just might turn something up ! You'll never know if you don't at least start digging.

If you bought your horse locally and his previous owner can't be contacted or shed any light on his/her background, try putting up notices in local feed merchants, saddle shops and veterinary surgeries, or enquire at the nearest Pony Club.

You might strike it lucky !!

By Samantha J Jane

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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Taking Care of Your Horses In The Heat

We go to great lengths to make ourselves comfortable in the hot weather, air conditioning, fans, cold drinks. What should we do to ensure our horses are also comfortable through our hot, dry and dusty summer?

1. On the priority list -

WATER is definitely right at the top! As a general rule of thumb, horses drink 3-4% of their body weight each day, with this percentage increasing following work or during hot conditions. A 550kg horse will therefore drink (in normal conditions) around 22 litres of water per day, with 50 litres not out of the question in hot weather or after work. If your horse is getting his water supply via buckets don't forget to take into account the evaporation factor, and also ensure that water remains cool. If it becomes tepid, your horse may not drink and could suffer from dehydration. Be aware that you may have to replace or top up during the day. Obviously the best scenario is for your horse to have access to clean, fresh water where he can just meet his own requirements. Horses should be cooled down after work however before being allowed free access to water.

2. On the priority list -

Your horse, like yourself, will appreciate being able to get out of the direct sun in the heat of the day. Therefore shade is important. If there are no trees to provide shade in the paddock, a roofed shelter is desirable. if your stables are cool and well ventiliated, you may decide to keep your horse in during the day and out at night.

3. On the priority list -

Light rugs, sometimes referred to as 'fly sheets', are useful in keeping your horse comfortable in the heat and less annoyed by insects (hint: light colours deflect the heat). Fly veils can also provide your horse with a higher degree of comfort in the daylight hours, but for safety, check regularly. A good fly control program is important as flies and other biting insects can carry diseases, cause sores, annoy any existing wounds and provoke allergic reactions. You may wish to regularly apply a fly repellent, there are a number on the market that are purposely designed for horses. Covering your horse up from the sun will also ensure that his coat does not suffer any "bleaching" .

4. On the priority list -

If your horse has a pink muzzle or other sun sensitive parts on his body, apply zinc cream or sun block. For the muzzle you can attach a U.V. flap from the headstall to protect his nose from the sun. 5 On the priority list - When temperatures really soar, your horse will enjoy a cool hosing or sponging down, to bring down his body temperature. Make sure you scrape the water off afterwards though or it will form a blanket of its own and trap heat to the horse.

6. On the priority list -

If possible do not stable a hot horse. Standing still in a confined area whilst hot can cause the horse's temperature to rise even higher. Walk the horse in the open air to cool off and allow him to stand where there is plenty of air to flow over his body. If possible, plan your ride to avoid the hottest part of the day, kinder on you and him!.

7. On the priority list -

Assess the availability of summer feed and the body weight/condition of your horse regularly as paddock pasture is soon dried out and burnt off by the sun. You should supplement his diet with hay when the pasture is minimised as the digestive system of the horse is designed to continually process fibre.

8. On the priority list -

You should also develop in advance a plan of action to be carried out in the eventuality of a bush fire. The development of a survival plan that meets your individual needs is important. Whether you decide that you would transport your horse to a safe district, or place him in the safest part of the property (which may be a closely grazed paddock, green swampy area, well fenced large sand menage), the main thing is to have a plan in place.

9. On the priority list -

You should also make every effort to remove any fire hazards such as long, excessive grass and leaf litter from around buildings and stables. Clean gutters regularly and store hay, shavings etc. away from the stable block throughout summer.

By Samantha J Jane

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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Why Horses Bite And What To Do About It

While watching horses play with each other, you'll notice they do things like push their bodies, rear up, strike and kick, and BITE. Of course it's all in fun and grabbing a bit of skin in their teeth is no big deal, unless the recipient is a human. It hurts !A horse that wants to bite you is usually expressing his desire to play, but he doesn't know that human skin is not quite as tough as a horse's. On one hand it's a compliment that your horse wants to play with you, on the other hand, it's a clear sign that he doesn't see you as the alpha.

Horses Never Bite Their Alpha !

Do you know how to recognise the alpha in a herd?

He or she is the one without the bite marks ! Horse's don't bite their alpha. In the game of dominance, those who 'bite best' win. When horses play and nip each other they are basically developing their dominance skills and rehearsing takeover strategies.

People Turn Playful Horses Into More Aggressive Biters

Most people smack a horse for biting, which doesn't work because prey animals don't understand punishment. They think you are biting back and now the interchange becomes all about who will 'win' the dominance game. In horse land the bravest, smartest and quickest horse wins. The alpha horse is calm, self confident and totally unemotional. He's also ready to do whatever it takes to maintain the alpha position. So when a horse goes to bite and you try to smack him, the horse just gets better at the game, he gets quicker at taking a nip and dodging the slap.

As time goes on the nip turns into bites because the horse gets more serious about dominating you. Also, when a horse can evoke an emotional reaction from you, surprise, anger, fear, he knows you have no chance of being alpha. You obviously aren't calm, smart or brave enough !

Prevention Is Better Then Cure

What does Pat Parelli do when he gets bitten ?

"I say "ow" and rub it until it stops hurting ! What else are you going to do? Slapping the horse doesn't work and it definitely doesn't improve the relationship. If you got bitten it's your fault for not thinking, being and behaving more like a horse!

Satisfy The Play Game

Many biters live in very restrictive environments, like stables and pens, and are isolated from other horses. Of course they're going to feel pent up and lonely as their need for social interaction increases. The you may be all they have!

The Parelli Seven Games teach you how to interact with your horse in a constructive and playful way and at the same time allow you to exert your leadership in ways that horses understand. Dominant horses move other horses around and that's what the Seven Games teach you do to.

The game is "who moves who". If your horse can make you move your feet, he knows it's just a matter of time before he can knock you off your perch. Horses are persistent in their quest for dominance and they are not in a hurry!

When playing the Seven Games, use them creatively as opposed to playing the games the same way every time. Always playing them the same way turns the Seven Games into Seven Jobs, and bored horses start to get pretty inventive! Try playing the games with an obstacle where the horse has to do lots of different things, from jumping the obstacle, to stepping on it, to straddling it, going sideways over it, backing up on it etc. The only limit for you and your horse is your imagination!

Indulge The Talent

A horse who is mouthy and nippy is also showing his need for oral interaction. Play with his mouth a lot, and do more then he really wants. Rub vigorously with your hands, pull his lips around (playfully of course !), rub his tongue and even teach him to lead by the tongue (very advanced). Teach him to pick up your cap or a stick or a bucket, put this obvious talent to good use!

Stay Out Of The Nip Zone

Most horse nip because they are to close to you. Learn to move your horse out of your personal space with rhythmic driving actions, use your elbows and even do jumping jacks ! Horses with a tendency to nip also tend to crowd you, they are over friendly, pushy and self confident. Simply asking the horse to stay at a respectful distance can make a big change to his nipping behaviour. Remember, if they can't reach you, they can't bite you !

Don't Smack Em Back !

If you feel a nip coming on, back your horse up quickly and intentionally. This changes their mind because it's a dominant move on your part. Give up smacking. It doesn't work, and it can actually turn a nice horse nasty. Put more backing into your daily interaction with the horse and, above all, don't let him barge into your space.

Horses Only Bite People They Don't Like, Don't Respect Or Don't Trust

Remember, horses are prey animals. They are most concerned about safety. Some horses bite because they are scared or unconfident, others bite because they are trying to dominate. In both cases, improving the relationship works. Just like people, horses need to feel liked and respected. Success with horses relies on knowing how to develop and maintain friendship and respect. It's a balancing act. You can't make a horse respect you by punishing him, in fact, it does the opposite. Aggressive people may successfully cause a horse to stop biting but they don't win the horse's heart.

Become The Kind Of Person A Horse Likes, Respects And Trusts

Play a lot of friendly games. Get your horse to like you and have positive thoughts when he sees you. Bring him apples and carrots (as gifts, not bribes!). Understand life from his perspective, understand how he develops respect, and consider his needs.

Develop your leadership skills. Teach your horse to move around you, not the other way round! Remember, horses need an alpha, or they will assume the role.

Prove to your horse you are not a predator, and that he can trust you no matter what. There's a delicate balance between getting your horse to do as you ask and preserving his confidence.

By Samantha J Jane

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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Horse Training Secrets - What You Should Know

If you make a compilation about secrets on training young horses, you may finish with a book thicker than any dictionary. There has never been any shortage on tips related to training young horses; and like opinions, most of these advice may never have been proven to be right or wrong. Really, these facts are essential for horse trainers in their pursuit to build up a young horse's performance and physical characteristics.

For those who are new to horse training, the sheer number of tips on teaching young horses can drive them to madness. Some techniques and principles that exist can be conflicting to each other; and the confusion can be more evident. But to really learn about tutoring young horses, one has to be approachable to trying out various techniques by combining various horse training methods. Here are some of the most common but successful training tips for young horses that have been practiced by a lot of trainers for generations.

The average age that a horse can start learning is about five years old. Although at this age, horses are still very young and therefore should not be trained severely since at this age, a severe training program can do damage to their physical development. At this age, we should focus on letting the horse feel what it is like under the saddle.

All horse training regimen depends on the breed of the horse that you are teaching. Horses have slow and fast learners just like humans. For example, the mountain horse, which could be trained under the saddle as early as two years of age. Or the Arabians, which are notably slow on their development; Therefore, at two years old, they can barely be trained for anything yet. Even under one breed, individual horses still have their own development rate; knowing this will enable you to adjust your horse training program consequently.

While it is true that horses can start training at two or five years old, young horses should never undergo a training program that is intendant for fully-grown horses. Training sessions for younger horses must begin with fifteen to thirty minutes of training periods.

The training environment plays an important role in the training of young horses. For instance, deep layers of soft sand in the riding ring might not be a good idea for young horses because in order to move their feet out of the sand, they will have to pull harder. Also, an inclined training ground may put more stress to the young horse's developing legs; therefore, it's better to use a level field.

By Paul A Wiseman

This well known author is an Internet expert and really enjoys sharing his passion with other people. Discover more now about Horses and all about Horse Training idea at his website http://www.horseswebsite.com

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Horse Breeding Uncovered - An In-Depth Look At Breeding Horses

Feral and wild horses breed naturally with no problems, but the selective breeding of purebred horses obviously requires specialist human intervention. The mating of two such horses has to be carefully planned, in order to produce the favourable characteristics required. Human management of horse breeding also ensures healthier pregnancies and a more successful outcome for foaling.

In breeding terms, the male horse (stallion) is known as the sire, and the female (mare) is known as the dam. Each plays an equal part in the genetic make-up of any ensuing offspring, so it is important that both possess the desirable characteristics needed. This is especially important to professional breeders, who wish to produce good foals of a certain breed. It is also possible to mate two different types of horse in order to create a new breed, with its own distinctive characteristics.

In horse breeding, there are half-brothers and sisters (horses who share the same mother but have a different father), horses fathered by the same stallion (referred to as 'by the same sire') and ones that share the same mother and father (known as 'full siblings').

A horse owner needs to take several factors into account before deciding to breed the animal, such as:

- Does the breeding partner have excellent genetic qualities?

- Is the animal in good health?

- What purpose will any ensuing foal be used for? Will it be kept or sold on?

- What are the economic benefits for the owners of the sire and the dam?

Furthermore, the owner of a mare will have to take into account the extra added costs associated with seeing their animal through gestation and add to this the very expensive costs of nursing a foal. There are many things to consider, starting with the stud fee. After this, the pregnant mare will require adequate veterinary care throughout her pregnancy, and she will also need proper nutrition - both these things will cost the owner a substantial amount of money. Finally, there is the cost of caring for the foal and mother post-gestation to consider. When taking all these factors into account, it becomes apparent that it is difficult to make a profit from horse-breeding, especially for the mare owner. This is a major factor for horse owners, and many decide not to breed their animals due to the huge expense involved.

A newborn foal is worth approximately three times the cost of the stud fee, and would fetch this if sold immediately after birth. However, if the foal is kept for any longer period of time, the costs of caring for it far outweigh any profits. Sadly, foals bred without careful consideration may end up being sold at a loss, or worse still, being sold for horse meat.

To conclude, horse owners should give careful consideration to whether they wish to breed their animal, what their motivations are and how achievable they may be.

By Sid Levett

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To Be "Dewormed" Or Not To Be "Dewormed" - That Is The Question!

Truth And Consequences

I've been told, you have been told, and we have all been told that "all horses have worms". Likewise, we have been told that if you don't deworm your horse(s) EVERY 2-3 months you are a "bad" horse owner, right? Well perhaps no one actually called you bad - but you WERE shown all those horrible pictures of all those horrible worms and informed of all those horrendous consequences. Eventually you believed, I believed, we all believed! Fear and guilt are incredible tactics BUT notice I used the past tense believED! Why the change? For me it was merely a matter of just remembering the truth. I woke up from my guilt-like trance and remembered that way back when I first graduated from vet school all horses didn't have worms. I remembered that way back before easy to use, convenient paste wormers were available, at the most, we dewormed twice a year. I also remembered that most veterinarians did a fecal check exam on horses each time before we treated them. If they didn't have a positive test, we simply did not deworm! Exceptions were only the obvious need, like a "wormy" looking horse. Bottom line is many horses didn't have worms then and many horses don't now, either! So what changed along the way? Why is their so much indiscriminant deworming today? Has the change been good or bad for our equine friends? How about those daily "preventatives", are they really the answer?

Dewormers - The disease or the cure?

Horses that tend to have worms simply do - horse that don't tend to have worms, simply don't. Just like people - some people get sick all the time, some hardly ever, regardless of the exposure. If horses do have parasites, studies have shown that actually about two out of three horses will become reinfected in eight to ten weeks after deworming. When reinfected, those that initially had high numbers of eggs will continue to have high numbers. Those that had low numbers to begin with had low numbers later, too! So the parasites can be reduced with chemicals BUT they obviously just come back in "parasite prone" horses anyway. Could this be more of a genetic-type resistance in the horse rather than effectiveness of dewormers? In my opinion, the more you give chemicals the weaker the horse becomes, with a consequent tendency for many more problems. Have you noticed all the horses with allergies today? How about all the horses with chronic lung problems? Why all of a sudden do horses have a problem from being exposed to the opossum (EPM) when the two, horses and the opossum, have co-mingled for millions of years. Could our horses be weaker today? Noticed more laminitis lately? How about colic? There are certainly other contributing factors such as over-vaccination, improper nutrition, etc., but no doubt our horses are weaker today than they used to be. Many holistic oriented veterinarians like myself, truly believe we are damaging our horses. As much as this absolutely makes sense to me it may still just be my opinion. But facts are facts and it is a fact that parasites are becoming resistance to dewormers. The literature actually is reporting considerable resistance to wormers like Benzelmin, Panacur and Anthelcide. There is even resistance to Strongid (pyrantel pamoate) being reported. Noticed a price drop lately in these products? This brings to my mind the question, how effective are these "daily" products if resistance is already present? The only product that doesn't have resistance problems in equine parasites is Ivermectin. For goats however, it is a different situation - there is a lot of resistance to Ivermectin, and deworming goats these days is quite difficult. There is nothing left to use! This problem is coming for horses - What will we do then? What is the "cure" today may be the disease soon - especially if chemicals are weakening our horses, too! A recent article in a major Equine health magazine stated "custom deworming programs based on consultation of a veterinarian and fecal exams of individual horses will help postpone drug abuse, and thus drug resistance by common parasites". They went on to state a "looming disaster" if we continue deworming the way we do today. My feelings, exactly - we have a serious situation!

"As needed" deworming, the answer!

Hopefully you are getting the sense that "as needed" deworming may really be the answer. The key is to determine WHEN deworming is needed! The first step is to understand that each horse is an individual - each with an individual need and circumstance. Rather than just deworming by the calender, it is our responsibility to look at each situation. This may not be as difficult as it sounds and I assure you it will even be cheaper! Now, I imagine I have your attention - less money! Let's face it, saving money is important -- especially when you have 30 or so horses like I do and especially when it is not much more difficult. The answer is simply to check a fecal sample first before you deworm. All it takes is a thimble full of manure. Your veterinarian can do it for you. Most usually charge $10 -$15. Do expect a little resistance because they, too, have been exposed to the same myth that "all horses have worms" for quite some time. Most have said it so much and haven't checked in so long they too believe it as fact. Most likely they will try to just sell you a paste wormer. Yes it may be cheaper at the moment - but what if you did have a naturally resistant horse that simply didn't need deworming anyway? What if you had 10 of your 30 that didn't have worms? How about if they NEVER had eggs in the fecal material? I think you could not only save money, but also have healthier horses and definitely have fewer resistant parasites in the future. I once stated in an article that resistant parasites would soon be wearing a coat of armor oblivious to everything! I can't imagine trying to handle a real parasite problem under those circumstances. It is sort of like the antibiotic situation we will soon be facing if "modern world" doesn't wake up. The most "modern dewormer" today, Quest, will even kill your dog if he happens to get a hold of a little. How much stronger will they become?

I want to offer another solution - If you will mention this article, our lab will even check one horse for free with the purchase of EACH all-natural Worm Check™ product. That is putting our money where our mouth is! Inside each package is a mailer for the manure sample and a few questions to answer about each horse. Usually it takes six proofs of purchase to receive a free parasite exam with our product. This offer is quite a savings since the Worm Check™ paste only costs $14.99. You can use this free parasite exam to check either before you use the Worm Check™ paste, or any other product for that matter, or to test for effectiveness afterwards. Worm Check™ is an all-natural combination of several herbs that is proving effective on all species of parasites. Technically, however, it is not a dewormer but an herbal supplement in paste form. We have not proven it effective against bots because we have to kill the horse(s) to determine this - I just can't do that! The best time to check for effectiveness after deworming with any product is 2-3 weeks. If you have a horse with a large number of eggs it should be checked and dewormed regularly, as needed. These "shedders" are the real problem on most farms. New horses entering your farm should ideally be isolated for several days and checked prior to putting them into the group. Any horse showing clinical signs of parasite problems, i.e. that "wormy looking" horse, should always best be examined by your veterinarian. There are some stages of parasites that just don't show up in a fecal exam, regardless.

Which horses generally need deworming and which don't?

As we have stated, those that have worms need it and those that don't, do not, but there are a few general guidelines to follow. Young horses are more prone to problems associated with parasites, particularly roundworm impactions, whereas older horses are usually immune to round worms and other species, too, for that matter. A few horses on a large pasture would seldom have a problem because horses seldom pick where they have gone to the bathroom if they have enough room. This selective grazing is why wild horses seldom have a problem with parasites. Even horses in 12 X 12 stalls would seldom have a problem if the stalls were picked daily. Get the picture? Crowding is usually the culprit, and the obvious stress associated with it. Other important factors are time of year and where you live. The climate is a major factor in whether or not parasite eggs even develop into a transmissible state. Worms would not likely be a problem in a dry, hot area whereas if the season is warm and moist you might be more concerned. A really cold winter would put a damper on the problem, too. Another potential problem situation might be a horse that has been on a daily wormer most of his life. This horse would never have had the opportunity to develop any natural resistance. Also, it is easy to develop a false sense of security with these products and just never check them. Don't make that mistake - remember these classes of dewormers are the type that most parasites do develop resistance to. That is why so many of the newer "generic" ones are 2X, or twice the strength. One more note about such daily products: if you buy a new horse always ask the "daily wormer" history. Sudden exposure to a wormy environment with no resistance could be disastrous.

Our horses' future is in our hands.

I don't expect a lot of change - old habits and old myths are hard to put to rest. I also know I am not making many friends in the "drug" world - but then again my interest is our equine friend, not to "win and influence friends". It is up to us - you and me. If I knew something was wrong and didn't do anything about it, well..... that would even be a greater problem. Most people just don't know. So.... Will you help me tell them? I do ask you to consider checking fecal exams first before you deworm. Consider, too, the consequences if you deworm indiscriminately! Most importantly, start asking questions. A good question to begin with would be "is that drug or chemical really necessary?"

By Danny Clay

For More information visit our website http://www.YourHorseVet.com or contact Dan at info@YourHorseVet.com

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Weight Loss In Horses

Weight loss is a condition that many horse owners have had to deal with at one time or another. A horse that appears thin may be suffering from weight loss due to a number of causes. However there are three common causes of weight loss in horses: malnutrition, parasitism and dental disease.

If a horse is suffering from malnutrition then the number of calories it is consuming is less than the number it is using, it may also suffer from an incorrectly balanced diet. Causes of this include feeding poor quality feed, supplying inadequate amounts of feed or the horse maybe missing out on feed due to competition at feeding time.

Parasites can rob your horse of much needed nutrition as the parasites consume the nutrients or cause inflammation of the horse's gut leading to poor absorption of nutrients across the gut wall. A targeted parasite management program involving the use of appropriate dewormers given at the correct dose, combined with pasture management and fecal egg counts should minimise the impact parasites are having on your horses.
Dental problems can decrease your horses FCR or Food Conversion Ratio this is a measure of how efficient your horse is at converting feed into energy. The first two steps in digestion are prehension or picking up the feed and mastication or chewing. Any change in the efficiency of these two steps has a direct effect on the efficiency of the rest of the digestive process, as the rest of the digestive tract is only as efficient as these two steps. In severe cases loose, fractured or infected teeth can cause a horse to stop eating all together.

There are many other causes of weight loss in the horse, however the three covered above are the most common and should always be addressed when assessing a horse for weight loss. Other causes of weight loss can include but are not limited to tumours, disease of major organs such as the kidneys or liver, issues affecting hormone levels, inflammation of the intestine, chronic infection and stomach ulcers.

A useful tool in evaluating and reassessing weight loss in horses in to use a body condition scoring system. There are two main systems used one system grades horses from 1 - 5 with 1 being very poor condition and 5 being obese the other system grades horses from 1-9. The key difference between the two systems is the greater degree of accuracy of the 1-9 system.

Another tool that can help is the use of weight tapes although bear in mind that these are not always very accurate, alternatively if you are lucky you may live in an area where you vet or racetrack have digital scales you can use to weigh your horse more accurately.
While we are discussing weight loss in horses we should also talk about the dangers of a horse being too heavy. The same risks posed to people by being obese apply to our horses as well as a few of their own. Overweight horses have increased pressure on their joints and vital organs and are at risk of metabolic syndrome, which has been identified as a cause of laminitis (inflammation of the sensitive structures connecting the hoof wall to the pedal bone).

Overweight horses need a decreased calorie intake often combined with an increase in exercise.

By Shannon Lee

About the Author. Dr Shannon Lee is a an equine veterinarian who concentrates on equine dentistry. He has presented several scientific papers, provides lectures and tutorials to veterinarians and veterinary students. Advises government bodies on regulation pertaining to equine dentistry, and has an active role in research in the equine dental field. http://www.advancedequinedentistry.com.au

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Grass Clippings Can Be Dangerous To Your Horse

Grass clippings can be very dangerous to your horse. The potential for serious illness is high, so take precautions when collecting and disposing of lawn clippings.

There are many reasons why grass clippings can make your horse sick.

Choking Risk: Eating a big pile of lawn clippings is not the same as grazing. When a horse grazes, he must go through the motions of selecting, ripping, and thoroughly chewing grass. When faced with a great big pile of wet grass, a hungry horse may take big mouthfuls and end up with a wad of hay stuck in its esophagus. This condition is called choke and it's serious, usually requires the veterinary intervention.

Colic Risk: Additionally, lawn clippings will dramatically upset the balance of microbes in the hindgut, potentially leading to colic or laminitis.

Mold Risk: Damp, green clippings that have been left in a mower bag or pile begin to mildew and ferment quickly. Eating moldy, fermented grass can cause colic or diarrhea.

Respiratory Risk: Dry lawn clippings, on the other hand, can be dusty, triggering a reaction that leads to respiratory distress.

Toxic Exposure Risk: Finally, grass clippings may contain toxic chemicals or plants. Lawn care products are not suitable for use on pastures and therefore not suitable for consumption. And there are any number of toxic plants that may get mixed in with the grass clippings.

Mowing your pasture should not cause these problems. Usually, the clippings will dry quickly and be distributed throughout the pasture, eliminating the dangers associated with mold, fermentation and choke. The risk of toxic plant or chemical exposure is also eliminated. Horses can safely consume dry, well-distributed clippings along with the pasture grass.

By Moira Clune and Noreen Girao

Let Practical Horsekeeping show you how to become an efficient, effective equine expert! Moira Clune and Noreen Girao provide helpful horse care information with a practical twist at http://PracticalHorsekeeping.com/ Our free horse care ezine shows you the fastest, safest, smartest ways to care for your horse and create an organized, appealing environment that works for horse and rider! Sign up today and get our free, veterinarian approved Colic Preparedness Report that shows you exactly what to do in a horse colic emergency. Join us today at http://www.practicalhorsekeeping.com/horsecarenewsletter.html and start getting practical!

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Natural Horsemanship - Benefits For Horse And Human

Natural horsemanship training techniques are beneficial for the horse and the rider or trainer. Natural horsemanship techniques stress intuitive communication between the horse and its trainer. Such techniques make for a less stressful and more fun experience for each in the long run.

Lowered Expense

Keeping a horse is expensive! Vet bills, food costs, boarding costs, and equipment do not come cheaply. Just as people, plants and other animals tend to have better health if they are not stressed, and worse health if they are stressed, so do horses. Natural horsemanship techniques promote training that works with the horse's natural communication patterns and instinctive behavior. This assures that the horse will be more at ease during training, less stressed, and thus will likely remain healthier.

Specific natural horsemanship care techniques such as natural hoof care can also reduce expense for vet bills, food and medication. Horses that work barefoot are more sound and less likely to develop diseases such as thrush. The benefits of natural hoof care are realized most when horses are properly fed and exercised.

Better Movement

Horses trained with natural horsemanship techniques are trained to work with their rider and trainer rather than against. The philosophy of natural horsemanship is that horse and rider are a pair and must move in harmony. The pressure and release system of training used in natural horsemanship creates a strong communication link between the horse and rider, which allows even conventionally shown horses to move with more precision, grace and soundness. This higher quality of movement ensures that horses do better at shows, and are more comfortable to work with.

More Fun for All

Horses and humans each suffer from fear if training does not foster understanding and communication. Natural horsemanship puts those fears to rest for horses and riders/trainers. Learning to work one on one with a horse and communicate in "horse language," or the horse's natural body language takes some unpredictability out of working with horses. While a person can never completely accurately predict what a horse will do at any given moment, natural horsemanship techniques allow trainers to learn each nuance of their horse's personality. Everyone knows that pinned ears mean a horse is frightened, but what does that flick of the tail mean with your horse?

Working so closely with the horse will also allow it to get to know its trainer. If the trainer keeps with predictable cues and movements, the horse will learn to trust its trainer fully. With complete trust, the duo can do anything. If a horse trusts its trainer, it will be much more likely to try new things, and remain less stressed in new situations, making riding, showing and training more fun and relaxing for everyone.

More Benefits of Natural Horsemanship

The benefits to becoming part of the natural horsemanship community are endless, for horses and their riders and trainers. To learn more about natural horsemanship, and connect with others practicing the techniques, visit http://www.aanh.net

By Jeanine Lowry

Jeanine Lowry is the President of the American Association of Natural Horsemen. For more information, resources and a community of people practicing natural horsemanship, visit http://www.aanh.net

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jeanine_Lowry

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How to Have a Great Trail Ride

There are lots of options for great summer vacations, but if you own a horse or horses, you might be considering a Trail Ride. Trail Riding is a great way to enjoy your horse, nature, and the company of friends. Along with all the fun of a trail ride, there can be some hazards and challenges. Things like lightening, the sudden appearance of a rabbit or deer, a washed out bridge or your horse's refusal to walk past something she's not used to seeing. You can't anticipate everything that may come your way, but you can start out as prepared and well equipped as possible. Here are some great tips to help you have a safe trail ride.

Plan ahead. Study any trail maps, plan your route and if you're traveling any distance, make arrangements for overnight lodging and trailer parking. Talk to the appropriate park rangers, trail guides or riding clubs about the local trail conditions. Keep an eye on the weather forecast.

Put together a pack of essentials to take on the trail ride. Things to include should be a map of the area, food bars, bottled water, waterproof matches or lighter, flashlight and tissue. Other things that are a good idea to include would be spare reins and tack, leather pieces for tack repair, a compass, flagging tape to mark your trail and a whistle to call for help, if needed. There are many remote areas where a cell phone won't work.

Before starting your trip, make sure your truck and trailer are in good condition for travel. Protect your horse's legs with shipping boots or pillow wraps. If your horse throws his head you will need a head bumper also, and take along a light blanket for travel in colder areas.

Once you're on your way, stop frequently to give your horse a drink, check his covering and body temperature and feed. Also, be sure and check your trailer hitch and safety chains to make sure nothing has loosened during the drive.

With a little planning ahead a trail ride will be a great way to spend some leisure time this summer.

By Darlene Anderson

For some great bargains on clothes for your ride The Cowgirl Boutique has a great selection of western clothes, boots, hats and accessories.

Darlene Anderson enjoys horseback riding and all types of western style recreation. She is the owner of a western clothes and accessories website: http://www.thecowgirlboutique.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darlene_Anderson

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10 Tips For Safe Horse Hay Storage

Store your hay for maximum use and nutrition. Don't let mold, mildew, rodents and weather ruin your hay!

Indoor Storage:

1. Keep hay dry. If you're storing it in a barn, be sure there are no roof leaks or water drainage problems.

2. Be sure condensation doesn't accumulate on the inside of the roof. A surprising amount of water can drip on your hay from a sweaty roof! Use a plastic tarp to channel water away from bales.

3. Keep an eye out for rodents. Rats and mice can contaminate your hay. Plug any entrances with steel wool. If you can't keep them out, cats and black snakes are great mousers!

4. Keep the hay off the floor. Used wooden pallets are available from many local businesses. They're often free for the taking and work perfectly!

5. Stack your hay for maximum air flow. Square bales should be stacked on edge with narrow gaps between rows. Be sure to check for heat in the bales by driving a metal rod into the centers.

6. Use older hay first. Pull old bales to the front or side before stacking in new hay, and feed older hay first before starting on the fresher supply.

7. As much as possible, keep bales in their compacted state. Broken bales expose the hay to air which will cause it to degrade in quality. Break off flakes to minimize air exposure.

Special considerations for outside storage:

8. When stored outside, hay must be stacked on pallets or some type of ventilated platform to keep ground moisture from infiltrating the bales. Be aware of seasonal wet spots!

9. Bales should be protected from sun and rain with tarps. Stack the bales in a pyramid formation to encourage water runoff.

10. Tarps also protect your hay from sunlight which causes rapid nutrient loss.

Hay needs to be stored properly for maximum safety, nutrition and usability. But no matter how carefully it's stored, always check each bale for mold or foreign objects. Never feed a horse hay that looks or smells moldy!

By Moira Clune and Noreen Girao

Let Practical Horsekeeping show you how to become an efficient, effective equine expert! Moira Clune and Noreen Girao provide helpful horse care information with a practical twist at http://www.PracticalHorsekeeping.com Our free horse care ezine shows you the fastest, safest, smartest ways to care for your horse and create an organized, appealing environment that works for horse and rider! Sign up today and get our free, veterinarian approved Colic Preparedness Report that shows you exactly what to do in a horse colic emergency. Join us today at http://www.practicalhorsekeeping.com/horsecarenewsletter.html and start getting practical!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Moira_Clune

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