Arthritis in Horses

Like human beings horses are affected by arthritis too. Pain, stiffness and swelling around the joints are some of the symptoms that are to be found in horses suffering from the same. Symptoms of horse arthritis should never be ignored and the horse should never be burdened with physical activity in such cases. It is sad to see many a promising racing and equestrian careers being affected by stress in the weight bearing joints, or dysfunctional abilities in the regular movements of the animal.

It is usually horses above the age of 15 which are especially prone to arthritis since the cartilage begins to wear out very quickly after that age. Some older horses are also affected by loosened tendons and ligaments resulting in inflammation, joint instability tremendous pain.

One should never ignore the seriousness of the disease in horses lest it may cripple the animal from regular physical activity which is vital to horses. Horse arthritis is treatable and manageable once it is detected early enough. Some common symptoms may be stiffness seen after sleep or standing for a long time, swellings on certain joints, an obvious tendency to limp after exercises or prolonged walking. At times one might notice changes in the horse's performance or general differences in the animal's behavior.

Even while administering medicines to the horses, many owners have tried to experiment with alternative processes like magnotherapy, where products related to this method of treatment are worn by the horse to help in relieving pain.

Magnotherapy products have been developed specifically for animals help in healing process apart from increasing energy levels and help reduce intense pain. By using a unique pattern of magnetic fields, these specifically designed products help the animals retain their normal activity in their daily lives. Owners should realize that while buying these products one must check on the CPR (Central Reverse Polarity) technology which simulates the pulsed field and alternating poles of an electromagnet and gives an advantage over the magnets which do not follow this kind of technology, rendering them practically useless.

Magnotherapy has the advantage of being totally non-invasive. It is quick and easy to use these products and they have no known harmful side effects have been seen. The metabolism in the animal body responds well to magnotherapy. There are many happy families who have tried an intelligent blend of regular medicines aligned with magnotherapy products to cure their animals. Products related to this therapy are available in the form of boots, tendon wraps, horse rugs, etc which are effectively used to curb the pain resulting from arthritis, rheumatoid arthritis, joint and muscle stiffness, lameness, hip dysplacia, ringbone and many associated problems.

By Maitreyee Chowdhury

http://www.researchbody.org

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How to Train a Horse - Learn How

If you have recently bought a horse, you have an important decision to make. Will you hire a professional horse trainer, or will you do it yourself? Many people will hire a professional trainer, because learning how to train a horse can seem intimidating at first. Learning how to train a horse is not as hard as it seems however, and there are many benefits to training the horse yourself, rather than hiring someone to do it. With guides like Horse Training Secrets Revealed, you can learn all of the steps and secrets that you will need in order to train your horse.

One of the most important benefits of training your own horse is that you have full control over the training process. You won't have to worry about a trainer using methods that you do not agree with. You and your horse can progress at your own pace, which will make it easier for both of you.

Training helps you form a deep bond with your horse. If you let a professional train your horse, they will develop the bond. Training your horse gives you a closer relationship with them. You can discover your horses strengths and weaknesses through training, so you will be able to provide them with better care, and will also help you better understand your horse.

You can also save a significant amount of money by doing it yourself. Hiring a professional can cost quite a bit, especially if you have a problem horse. By learning to train your horse yourself, you just need to pay for the information on how to do it. Training any animal is a very rewarding experience for you and the animal. It helps build a better bond between you, and it can be a very fun process.

By Vanessa Peters

Vanessa Peters knows horses like she knows her face. A farm girl by birth and at heart, Vanessa writes for popular blog Horse-Health-Care.Com. She provides honest information and advice on matters like tips horse owners can benefit from and more. Check out the site now!

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Horse Training Using the Alpha Mindset

Recently I took my three year old filly to a local show to hang out. While watching a class, a woman approached me to ask the question, What should I do about ...? In this case, her horse would fly backward every time she approached to put on the bridle. And so, the questions, What should I do? Why is he doing this? As always, difficult questions to answer. First, the horse tells me when to do, how to do, what to do in any given situation. There is no formula for "If he does this, then I do this." Next, what the horse is actually physically doing may not be the problem, it could be the by-product of the problem. What you do know is that what he is doing is not acceptable behavior. The real issue leads back to mindset: the horse's mindset and even more so, the person's mindset. In other words, it isn't necessarily what you're actually doing that the horse has a problem with, it is the pressure created by what you're doing, which in turn triggers a response; in this case, raising his head and flying backward. The horse is using something that Nature's View calls the tyrant mindset: in other words, freeze flee or fight is his natural instinct. When he is in this mode, the horse is actually saying "I want to do what I want to do." Sound familiar? There is nothing wrong with this mindset; in fact, in the wild, in Nature's World, the horse would depend on it for his own survival. The problem is that in our world, that mindset isn't beneficial to him and if he continues down that road, someone is likely to get hurt.

So, back to the first question, What should I do? The first thing to do is to introduce the horse to a new mindset: one called the alpha mindset. This isn't necessarily the same alpha that you may have heard of in other horsemanship methods. With Nature's View, the alpha is simply using the mindset of "How can I help you?" With the tyrant mindset that we mentioned before of "I want to do what I want to do." the horse decides what to do or the person decides how much pressure to apply (usually evoked from past situations, so you may over or under react). The alpha mindset, the other side of the pendulum, is defined as whatever the resistance from the horse is in any given situation determines the amount of pressure that is applied, plus a little bit more. This mindset calls for dealing with the moment, riding the horse beneath you, not the one four strides ahead or behind. Remember, we teach and learn by example, so which mindset would you rather your horse use: alpha or tyrant?

In any case, there are four basic things that we use to accomplish a task or goal: movement, direction, rhythm and track. These are actually the things that you can see: in Nature's View we use these things to work on the underlying things (things like problem-solving, timing, listening, etc.). This is actually true for us as well. Think about it: to get ready for work in the morning, first you have to move; then you need to move in the direction of the kitchen for breakfast; but back to the situation with the horse. As an example, within a segment of work, if we're asking a horse to go in a particular direction and the horse decides on his own to change direction, the amount of pressure that you apply is equal to his resistance, plus a little bit more. If you pay attention to the horse and let him tell you what to do in applying that pressure, more than likely, the horse will change back to the original direction. Each time you apply pressure you are raising what we call his negative pole. The poles within (both negative and positive) are those feelings that let you know when a situation is beneficial or not to your well-being. If the resistance continues and you keep increasing pressure (remember, using the alpha mindset), finally, what they are feeling from you will be greater than what they are imagining (the pressure to change direction). As soon as you feel that they have switched to the new mindset, you should release the pressure. Don't get caught up in watching for an action. Remember, as soon as you feel the horse switch to the new mindset, that is when you release the pressure.

So back to the questions; we use the bridle (the goal) as the reason for the journey (creating a relationship with your horse) to practice the unseen (timing, feel, anger management, listening skills) which allows you to develop a whole new alpha mindset, or way of thinking; lot to think about, isn't it?! Just like jumping the jump, crossing the creek or loading into the trailer, putting the bridle on or taking it off is one of the many seen things that we do with our horses; but the icing on the cake is having a willing partner in any task that we attempt. It's not about accomplishing the goal, not even about the journey; it's about the mindset needed for both. The goal is simply the reason for the journey. Within the journey, we are allowed to practice the mindset, and the more proficient we are at the mindset we will be able to follow our passion, whatever that may be (dressage, hunter/jumper, trail riders, western pleasure). So instead of putting the cart before the horse and focusing on the goal or even the journey, we first need the alpha mindset.

Copyright Nature's View, Inc. All Rights Reserved Worldwide.

By Bruce J A Anderson

Bruce Anderson is a full time equine consultant, trainer and clinician located in Camden, South Carolina. Originally from the islands of Trinidad and Tobago, he has worked throughout the US, Canada and Great Britain. He conducts clinics and training opportunities with partner and co-author, Julianne Neal, using the Nature's View system. To learn more about their work, please visit http://www.naturesview1.org or http://www.equusencounter

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Belgians - The Gentle Giant

The Belgian Breed is one of the gentlest, most eager to work and easiest to handle and train breeds. The Belgians in America today, descendants of Belgium's Brabant, are not as massive as the Brabant but retain proportionate muscular and bone structure and the gentle, hard working disposition of their ancestors. The Belgians were bred mainly for farm work in Belgium and imported to the United States in the 1800's for the same purpose. Although farming was the main purpose of the breed their gentle disposition, strength, and versatility has made them ideal for all other types of Draft work. The purity of the breed has been carefully guarded over the years. Careful breeding, choosing only purebreds with the most desirable traits, breeders have maintained a very desirable, versatile animal. These traits make them number one with most Draft Horse enthusiasts today. The breeding alone is not fully responsible for the Belgians gentleness and eagerness to work. The training and handling of the animal has a lot to do with what type of temperament it will end up possessing. A gentle, calm, but firm hand and kindness will reap all the benefits the Belgian breed has to offer.

I was raised around the breed most my life. My grandfather, his father and grandfather before him all used Belgians to farm in Northeast Missouri. Grandpa also raised, trained, and sold Belgians for many years. He was the one to go to if you needed a great, not just good, team of Draft horses. Before his death in 2000, he had raised and trained an untold number of horses. Belgians, although they were his favorites and most used, were not the only breed of horse he raised. The other breeds included Quarter Horses, Thoroughbreds, and several pony breeds including Shetlands and Welsh. Grandpa's second favorite breed was the Mule, which is a cross between male Donkey (a jack) and female horse. Grandpa bred the donkey not only with his lighter weight mares but also with his Belgian mares resulting in the "Mammoth Jack." The Mules he bred inherited the gentle, hard working traits of the Belgian and the surefootedness and strength of the donkey. They were the gentlest Mules I have ever known.

In 40 years of my life, my grandfather only had two teams that he kept as his own. The very first team that I remember him having were named Queen and Barney. They were a pair of dark brown Belgians, if I remember correctly; they were half brother and sister. The two were raised and trained together from day one by my grandfather. These horses were so well trained they would have harnessed themselves if possible. They did everything else on voice command and some things just because they knew it was what they were supposed to do. Grandpa owned a 300-acre farm on which he usually kept no less than 12 to 15 head of horses but the Belgian teams were always the lead of the herd. Grandpa could step out into the yard and start calling for Queen and Barney who would appear right on cue every time with the rest of the horses following close behind. When he opened the gate, they knew exactly which stall was theirs and never failed to get it right. They would wait patiently for the feed boxes to be filled and to get on with the days work without missing a beat.

They did not need to be tied, they would stay until harnessed and told to "hitch up." They would then calmly leave the barn in order of closest to the barn door and go to the wagon that was outside; no matter which wagon was waiting they knew to go and back themselves into the tree and wait to be hitched up to the wagon. If it was the trailer or truck they were to be loaded into Grandpa would just have to say "load up" and they would know to go to the truck or trailer and they'd walk in every time. I remember grooming, leading, driving and riding them thinking I was so big and in control of such an enormous animal but it was truly my grandfather who had control of them through his training and voice commands. I say that the training has a lot to do with the type of animal that results because the second team he raised and trained for himself were just as gentle, even-tempered, and easy to control as Queen and Barney. In fact, all the horses and teams he broke, whether for himself or someone else were considered by many in the area to be some of the best. I was taught to have respect and use caution around all animals at all times but of them all, I believe the Belgians were the most trusted.

Do not be totally fooled by the amiable behavior that the Belgian displays the majority of the time. They are also very sensitive animals and can tell if the person handling them is stressed, agitated, or insecure. Those emotions can affect their behavior. Their massive size and strength can make them just as dangerous as they are gentle. They do not realize the brute strength that they possess and when frightened, startled or provoked they still posses the flight or fight instinct of any prey animal and can be just as unpredictable as any other breed in the same instance. As gentle and well trained as they were I can remember times that one or both of the team would startle, begin to bolt, rare or react in an unpredictable manner for whatever reason. A quick firm hand on the reins and a few calming words from Grandpa the situation could usually brought quickly under control.

Even though things went smoothly, most of the time there would be the occasional colt or filly that needed a bit more persuasion than the human hand alone could dole out. When these foals came along Grandpa could rely on the solid temperament and training of his older horses to put the young ones in their place. He would hitch the young one up with one of the older horses and between the two of them and many hours in the harness, the younger one soon learned his purpose and developed the desired disposition of the Belgian. If Grandpa had a real difficult foal, he would do a three hitch, with the foal between the two older horses. Considering guidance from both sides, there was not much the young horse could do but be compliant.

Grandpa and his team are greatly missed. I hope still to some day have a team of Belgians of my own. If any one were considering a team of Draft horses for work or pleasure, I would highly recommend considering the Belgians.

By Sue Miner

Find more FREE information on a variety of subjects you may or may not need to know about. Check out http://www.needtoknowornot.com You can sign up for free information updates on subjects of interest to you. You can suggest ideas for information or links to be included on our site

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Horse Training Tips, Correcting the Spooky Horse

I have been a horse nut for as long as I can remember. I had owned a number of horses which I had some training to do on each horse after my purchase. But it wasn't until I purchased a totally untouched horse, raised in the wild that I had the challenge to correct a horse that was prone to flight. It took me a while to correct and thankfully my horse, myself and others around him never got hurt in the process. I hope this article will help you correct this problem in your horse, quickly and without injuries.

I was tired of retraining horses and tired of trying to fix a problem that someone else had created in a horse that I purchased for my own. So in order to fix this problem I found a yearling that had been field bred and spent the first year of his life in the Cascade mountains. He was untouched and totally wild. I negotiated his price, and an agreement to get him to the sellers home with the understanding that I have the use of her round pen for 2 weeks.

The first four to five days it seemed as though there was little to no progress made, but on day 6 I started to see improvement and by day 14 I had him in a straight load trailer without a fight. I was truly amazed that an animal so wild just 2 weeks before could be transformed in 14 days with just 2 to 3 hours a day of slow gentle work on my part.

This was just the beginning of many years of training. He is now 12 years old and is a wonderful trail horse and a true companion of mine. He is not fully trained as I don't think any horse, at least any of my horses ever are. I believe in the saying, "always be training", and I always will be. He is smart and gentle now but he was a problem to get the flight instinct out of him and make him use his brain. I would work with him and think I had him fixed until a turkey would fly up on the trail and suddenly I was without a horse under me!

A flighty horse has to be fixed and until he is, the horse will be dangerous to handler, rider and the people that are around him as well as dangerous to himself. The final straw was when I was camping, I got two horses saddled and ready to go for a ride, I tried them to a hitching post and went to the outhouse. When I came out I noticed that something was bothering my horse, I don't know what, could have been a horsefly or something. I started over to him at a quick walk so I could untie him and find out what was going on. As I got to him, and before I could get the quick release knot untied he exploded. Now this is a big horse, about 1400 pounds, at a standing position he sprung off the ground like he sprouted wings. He came down on the hitching post which broke off at each end and was now a log tied to him which scared him even more and he took off. Now my other horse is still tied to the log and as he takes off she has no choice but to follow. There I was watching my two horses running off in the camp with a log between them. What a wreck!

From this story you can see that something very slight can create a terrible situation and a flighty horse needs to be corrected before these things happen. This was the hardest thing to correct in this horse and I attribute it to the first year of his life when he had real predators like bears and mountain lions. It took a lot to get him to think before flight but I did get that result and so can you.

Here is the horse training lesson in my online library that will fix this problem and a few others in the process. As with most things in horses, fix one thing and it will have an effect on other problems and other benefits to your horse training.

By Jackie Heinen

Horse Tack and Supplies - Customizable, Made to order saddles, tack, harnesses and carts for horses of all sizes, Llamas and donkeys. All made in the USA. All shipping is free, the price you see is the price you pay

Find lots of great information and articles on horse training, camping, nutrition, care and more to help you with all aspects of horse ownership. http://www.horsetack-supplies.com

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Horse Riding Saddles - The 4 Saddles You Must Know

There are many different styles of horse riding saddles out there. And, within each type, there are variations. What you will find is that there is a REASON saddles differ from each other in the way they are structured. It is not simply a matter of style or fashion. It is a matter of utility. What are the horse and rider trying to accomplish? Are they trying to jump a fence or rope a calf? Saddles have evolved over time to reflect the various things we do with horses.

There are four BASIC kinds of horse riding saddles that you will most likely see in a riding stable. Be familiar with their differences and the reason they are different. Lets start with a Dressage saddle: These saddles have a very straight cut, long flap in front which is designed to accommodate the longer leg position that a dressage rider utilizes in their discipline. The pommel and the cantle are a bit higher than in some other saddles which leaves a deep seat for the rider to sit and communicate with their horse using their natural aids. Some dressage saddles have more or less padding in this front flap depending on the riders preference in maintaining proper leg position.

By contrast consider the Hunt Seat saddle. This saddle is designed for jumping. Riders use a shorter stirrup length when they are jumping and for this reason, these saddles have a forward-cut flap that has padded knee rolls. The rider, therefore, sits slightly further back than in a Dressage saddle. These things help position the rider in an advantageous way to jump a fence. The pommel and cantle are lower than a Dressage saddle which serves to reduce any interference as the rider takes a two-point position, or half-seat.

The Cutback saddle is another English type saddle, like the other two. And, just so you know, you may hear this saddle referred to as a Lane Fox or a Park Saddle or a Flat Saddle. But they all refer to the same saddle. The Cutback saddle is known for and actually named for the cut back area in the pommel located at the withers. Horses with higher leg action, such as the Saddlebreds, the Tennessee Walkers, the National Show Horse, Morgans and Arabians, will utilize this saddle to accommodate the greater motion of the front legs and shoulders as well as to provide for the often higher withers associated with these breeds. The seat is longer and flatter than either the Dressage or Hunt Seat saddle. Because saddle seat riders also ride with a longer stirrup than hunters, the flap on the cutback is also straight and long.

Finally, we come to the Western saddle. This is a different animal from the three previously discussed horse riding saddles. The evolution of Western saddles has an interesting history that goes back to the Moors and Spaniards. But, without going into too much detail, suffice it to say that it was a war saddle, designed to accommodate a warrior on horseback and his various needs. The saddle was brought to this country and transitioned from a military saddle into one used to accommodate the needs of a working cowboy. Thus, the most distinctive difference is the presence of a horn which was used by cowboys to tie or dally a cow as they are maintaining the herd. And, because these saddles had to be strong enough to handle another animal being tied to the horn, western saddles are bigger, stronger and more substantial than English saddles. Also, unlike the English saddles the stirrups are not detachable, so the stirrups, where you put your feet, are bulkier making it is unlikely that your foot would get hung or stuck.

Although I will not go into it in this article, Western saddles differ among themselves based on what they are used for. For example, Roping saddles have thicker horns for securing a rope. Cutting saddles have a deeper seat and wider swells allowing the rider to endure sharp stops and turns. Barrel racing saddles are more lightweight, with wide swells letting the horse perform fast sprints easier. And there are many more!

This article is simply an overview of the 4 basic kinds of horse riding saddles that you will see in most riding stables. There are plenty more, based on other specialties, like Side Saddle. This should, however, give you enough information to get started learning the 4 basic saddles. If you have the opportunity, try out the various types and you will start getting a feel for what you may prefer.

By Lisa Blackstone

For more information, go to http://www.SaddleEquestrianGuide.com or http://www.EquestrianTackGuide.com

Lisa B. Blackstone has been involved in the Arabian horse business all of her life. She operated a family owned Arabian horse breeding and training stable called Onyx Arabians for many years. She went back to law school in the early-90s and is now a practicing attorney in the Atlanta, Georgia area. She is an original founder of the Equine Section of the Georgia Bar. Recently, Lisa launched two websites designed to teach the novice rider about horses and horsemanship. You can visit them at http://www.HorseAndRiderClub.com and http://www.AmericanHorseAssociation.com She continues to ride and to judge Arabian horse shows in the United States and abroad

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Best Horse Buying Tips Available

Before you run out and buy a horse there are some things that are important for you to know. When you go to look at a horse make sure that the seller does not try to tell you that you better buy now because if you wait you are going to lose out. This is a way for him to try to make a quick sale and you may not get the best deal or the best horse so make sure you are cautious when making a purchase. You also do not want to tell the seller what you are willing to spend because this is only help him to over charge you.

It is also important when you are negotiating with a seller to buy a horse that you have a poker face and do not show him that you are interested in the horse too much. This can give him a red flag that he can charge you what ever he wants because you are going to buy this horse no matter what the price is. If you are purchasing the horse for your child it is important to let them know that there instructor need to approve the horse before you make a purchase like this.

Remember that buying a horse is not a hard thing to do but make sure that you know the facts before you make the purchase. It is always important that you do not let the seller strong arm you into thinking that you have to buy the first horse you see or you will miss out.

By Bryan Burbank

How to: Ride a Horse

Advice for: Horse Riding Tips

Bryan Burbank is an expert in the field of Horse Riding and Training

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Cribbing - What Are the Causes?

The habit of cribbing is notoriously hard to break and can greatly reduce a horse's resale value. Roughly 300,000 horses in the U.S. are cribbers, among them 2.5 percent of all Thoroughbreds. Research as to the reasons why horses crib is ongoing.

Definition

The term 'cribbing' (or 'crib-biting') is loosely used to cover two distinct behaviors -- namely the real thing and a separate habit, windsucking.

When cribbing a horse grabs a solid object such as a fence rail or stable door between his incisors, depresses his tongue and swallows air.

'Windsucking' doesn't involve grasping anything in order to swallow air. The horse closes its mouth, arches its neck and forces air down the esophagus with a gulping sound.

For the purposes if this article I shall use the term 'cribbing' to cover both behaviors.

Boredom and Stress

There is continuing research into the causes of cribbing, but boredom and stress are accepted as major contributing factors.

I can testify to this with my own Thoroughbred mare. At age fourteen she injured a tendon with her previous owners and was turned out for two years. During that time her field buddies were brought in overnight, leaving her alone -- bored and stressed. Before long she became an inveterate cribber.

Gastric Acidity

Some research suggests that cribbers have a high acid level in their stomachs and attempt to neutralize it with an additional flow of alkaline saliva.

Another theory associates cribbing with feeding concentrate rations. According to Katherine A. Houpt, director of Cornell's Animal Behavior Clinic, high-concentrate diets may cause increased acid in the horse's stomach and/or large intestine. Cribbing may be a response to the resulting pain. Dr. Houpt thinks an added culprit could be the sweet taste of the feed, leading to a release of opiates which induce cribbing.

My Thoroughbred would crib immediately after eating concentrates and I've read of other horses which do the same. This supports Dr. Houpt's idea and she is currently investigating an easy-to-follow dietary treatment for cribbing horses which would still be high-performance.

Meanwhile she suggests feeding lots of hay and oats rather than sweet feed.

Note: I also read of one instance where the horse cribbed because of stomach ulcers, so it's worth investigating this cause, too.

Learned Behavior?

When looking for a boarding barn for my horses I faced strong prejudice against cribbers. Besides destruction of their property, owners were afraid my mare would teach the habit to other boarders. One barn owner alleged that his horses learned the vice within two weeks of a cribber arriving.

An article in Equus, September 2008, mentions research by Debra Archer, BVMS, PhD, of the University of Liverpool in England. In a study published in Equine Veterinary Journal, May 2008, Dr. Archer states there's no scientific evidence that cribbers will teach other horses to pick up the habit: "Don't hide them in the back of the barn....you'll just make them miserable in isolation and probably make the situation worse."

My own experience supports this. Rubesca was the only one of my four horses who cribbed. Her Thoroughbred colt never picked up the habit, and he was with her 24/7 (excluding his weaning period) together with the other two geldings. All four horses formed a tightly knit family for eight years-- both in the stall and in the field. None of the other three ever exhibited the slightest interest in cribbing.

Genetic Predisposition

Research suggests some horses have a hereditary component which predisposes them to chronic stress, and as a result to cribbing.

This explains to me why so many Thoroughbreds contract the habit, as they tend to be highly strung. Many owners of cribbers in forums I visited had what are known as 'OTTB's or 'Off the Track Thoroughbreds.' During his career a racehorse spends almost all his time in the stall, a perfect environment for boredom and stress.

One owner discovered his cribber came from a family of cribbers. Several among the progeny of his horse's sire cribbed, as did the sire's full brother. This does suggest there may be some truth to the hereditary argument.

What Can Be Done to Help?

As Dr. Houpt says, it would be so much better for the horse if we determined the cause of the cribbing and 'removed the stimulus rather than punish the horse.' Crib collars have varied success in preventing the behavior. They never worked with Rubesca: she cribbed whatever she had on - Miracle collar included. From what I've read, she was not unusual in this.

Mechanical methods don't stop a horse from wanting to crib and many of them cause more pain. I eventually took the collar off my Thoroughbred and let her crib to her heart's content. She was so fantastic in every other way that I felt she deserved the right to her 'vice.' Dr. Archer advocates turning a cribber out as much as possible and keeping forage in front of them to "reduce their overall stress."

There is no proof that cribbing causes colic.

Would You Buy A Horse That Cribs?

When selling a horse to a friend who worked for a well-known Dutch inventor, I felt compelled to be honest and confess to the famous man that my horse would weave through anxiety for the first few days, then stop.

He laughed. "If you could see the vices some of my horses have! All I care about is how they behave under saddle. If they're good, the rest doesn't matter."

Having owned a chronic cribber, I concur. The same friends who warned me against taking a horse with this vice soon changed their tune when they watched Rubesca win one-day-event after another and almost all her dressage classes, right until her death at age twenty-six. They said they would never let the fact that a horse cribs put them off, if it were good in every other way.

By Hilary Walker

See also this article in Behind the Bit

Hilary Walker is English, living in Maryland with her three horses, four dogs, schizophrenic cat, perfectly normal American husband and teenage son. She loves teaching people to ride, taking them to shows and watching them win ribbons. She also enjoys training her young horse and is winning ribbons with him at First Level dressage. Her other love is writing, and she is about to release a humorous non-fiction book describing the times when things haven't gone quite so smoothly in her horse life. Like every self-respecting horse-woman, she abhors housework

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To Bit Or Not to Bit - That Is A Very Important Question!

I have seen so many horses with bleeding mouths from a bit and also acting up so bad it is hard to ride, with one horse flipping over backwards because a child pulled on the bit so hard. I had to write this article.

FIRST AND FOREMOST: How many of the 'horsey' people out there know that a horse can't 'YELP' like a dog when hurt; or scream loud 'MEOWS' like a cat when in pain; or make these very loud noises like most animals can when in pain.

The horse is usually silent and a very stoic animal and usually takes the pain. I say usually because the horses that are very sensitive and CAN NOT take the pain, they are the ones that are labeled 'bad', 'bad tempered', 'spoiled', 'disrespectful', because they show pain by rearing, bucking, bolting, kicking, and other things people don't like.

Have you ever been around a mare when she is giving birth? She hardly makes a 'peep'. Oh she might breath heavily or moan very low but basically she 'takes' the pain. Why? Because these animals are prey animals and if they were to make loud noises in the wild, their 'hunters' would know they are in trouble and they would seek them out for the kill.

Now I know I am going to probably get a lot of emails from this but the bitless riding is getting more popular so I might not get that many emails saying I am crazy.

Don't take my word for it. Do what I did, RESEARCH! Due research on how the bit does terrible things to a horse, both physically and emotionally!

Of course common sense would tell you just by looking at that 'metal' contraption, that it can't feel nice inside their soft mouth. I remember when I was very young, I had more common sense than the adults and told a gentleman that was riding with a bit that I would think that would hurt. He did not say much. Just kept walking.

I still talk to people today that still believe this LIE: 'Oh foaming at the mouth is good, he is taking the bit'. I do not believe when Any living creature, animal or human, foams at the mouth, that is not a good sign.

Oh, and that stupid term "Taking the bit" who in the world came up with that pathetic saying. Or the other dumb one "On the bit" This saying has been going on for years, world wide and is a gross misunderstanding about the use of the rein-aid.

Another term that is used alot (and the people that use this term, don't have a clue) is the term "collected or collection". The bit has been proven that it prevents TRUE COLLECTION. A horse needs 'Neck Mobility' to have true collection. I cannot go to Dressage competitions any longer as I go crazy when I see those poor horse's with their riders pulling on them so hard to bend the horses neck (over bending)or severe poll flexion caused by the bit. This not only obstructs the horse's airways but can also damage the neck and spine.

Getting back to the 'foaming of the mouth' and believing that is good! The bit causes reflex salivation and chewing. The bit causes this foaming because that is a response to eating not exercise. Can you eat and run normal at the same time? Well to the horse, when you put that metal bar in its mouth it causes a reaction like it going to digest food.

Also, in the wild a horse breathes with every stride. So if you obstruct some of his breathing due to the metal bit in his mouth, it will cause problems with the stride of the horse!

So, stop believing this lie, that a horse has to have a bit because that lie comes from hell!

The bit is a common cause of head shaking syndrome, dorsal displacement of the soft palate, epiglottal entrapment, collapse of the windpipe and pulmonary bleeding. The bit has also caused Asphyxia(thickness of wind, roaring, and choking up) Also the bit reduces the supply of oxygen, resulting in premature fatigue, breakdowns etc.

I read and studied every article I could find and did research on english bitless bridles and since I had been riding with just a halter and lead rope because my dear sweet gelding just could not take the bit banging in his mouth any longer. People told me he would kill me without the bit. These are those people who have had more experience being ON horses than being WITH horses. I don't think they really knew the horse, they just use them for their own means that had no end. Well I had Panama over 13 years, he never bucked me off and certainly never tried to 'kill' me. An animal that is treated with kindness is not stupid. They know you are kind to them and will not try and hurt you. I know for a fact these people, deep down, are afraid of horses. They will never admit it but they are afraid of them. They should buy a camel instead of a horse to ride. I had Panama for 13 years, not once did he ever try to buck me off, get aggressive or try to 'kill' me.

I knew there had to be something out there that did not have a bit! Especially all that I had just read on bits. Yes riding without a bit is possible and also a bit does NOT STOP YOUR HORSE!! The bit is just not good for any horses mouth.

I told you just a few of the problems a bit causes, things that I read and did research on and learned from a Vet who studied this over 40 years.

Again, please investigate! Read about how a horses mouth was not meant to have metal in it! A rope, is what the American Indians use to use; a string; whatever, just not metal!!!

They invented this torture device back in the 'Dark Ages' when they used torture devices on humans too. Lets put on our thinking caps my equestrian friends. The bit does not make sense! Stop using it as a crutch for true riding.

How sad these trainers are that teach the children to ride with a bit, when they can't even sit straight and their hands are all over the place. I have seen the pain in theses horses eyes, trying to take the pain because they know a child is on them. Is this fair to do that to our sweet horses!

With all the easy access we have to research things, why don't they do this! Because deep down they are scared (so why have a horse then?) and also they just don't care.

I cared, so I researched, found out it was not good for the horse (just like I researched about shoeing, found that wasn't good either) so I changed for the sake of the horse.

All I am asking is for you to read about what a piece of metal does to that sweet horse. All the 'trainers' who have been into horses, riding horses, raising horses and whatever for hundreds of years but never went to school to study these effects, they will probably not believe it because deep down they just don't care or they would do whatever it takes once they heard something is bad for a horse, to fix it! I was one of them at one time but I investigated it because my sweet horse was not acting right when it had a simple snaffle on and of course had people tell me he was just being bad! How sad for people to blame the horse right away!

If you read how the bit was invented. That alone should be a wake up call!

They depend on us to treat them with love and respect.

If all they get is hurt and torture every time they are with us, if they could talk they would probably say something like this:

"Instead of being hurt by you every time I am with you, I would rather have you send me to slaughter, at least that is only one time."

By Cindee Grimes

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Cindee_Grimes

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Top 10 Tips to Pick the Perfect Horse Trainer

1. Interview horse trainers that fit your individual goals. Jane Cowgirl might have trained the last 5 world-champion reining horses but that won't help you if your goal is the three-day eventing arena.

2. Be open-minded. Tip #1 being said, if your event horse has holes in his basic education or you just purchased an untrained but incredibly talented three-day prospect from Europe, Jane Cowgirl might be a great fit IF she is well known for phenomenal foundation training she gives every horse.

3. Check credibility. Though the horse training profession is largely unregulated, research the trainer's professional credentials. What certifications does she hold? What organizations does she belong to? Ask for referrals. Read testimonials from happy customers. Find out what her previous clients think about her services.

4. Are the facilities adequate for your goals? If you're looking for a cutting trainer, expect to see cows. If you want your horse to jump courses, look for jumps!

5. Are the facilities safe? Bear in mind that you are visiting a working farm, not a static showplace. Tack may be hanging on hooks along the aisle or arena walls and cross-tie areas may show signs of recent use. Beware if the tack is lying in tangled heaps on the ground waiting to trip passing horses, or the grooming area is fetlock deep in dirt and hair! The overall sense should be neat, functional and orderly.

6. Watch the trainer work a horse. If anything happens that you don't understand or are uncomfortable with, ask the trainer about it.

7. Does the trainer consider the whole horse? Does she ask that the horse is up to date on vaccines, dental work and hoof care before the horse begins her training program? Do the horses on her farm show evidence of up-to-date health care? Many training issues are the direct result of physical imbalance or pain. A comprehensive training program addresses the whole horse: mind, body and emotions.

8. After the training session, ask yourself three questions. Is the horse calmer and more confident than when he began? Has he learned something new or progressed further along the path? Did the trainer stay calm and levelheaded through any dicey situations? If the answer to any of these is no, ask the trainer to explain... or interview another trainer.

9. What value does the trainer offer? Notice I said value offered, not price charged. Jane Cowgirl might charge more than lower-priced competitors but if she produces better results in a shorter time, or produces results that are meaningful to you, you have gotten better value for your money

10. Educate yourself. Your horse is going to school. Do you need to brush up on your own skills in order to keep up with him? Take some lessons, read some good books, audit a clinic with a top trainer in your discipline. Book a session with your trainer at the end of the program to make sure YOU are able to cue your horse's new skills.

11. Be responsible. You are your horse's spokesperson. He depends on you for everything. If at any point you feel like he is being mistreated or abused, remove him from the situation, no matter how many prizes hang on the trainer's wall.

By Kirsten Lee

Kirsten Lee produces extraordinary results for horses and riders!

Kirsten teaches and trains out of Almost Heaven Horse Source in Wild, Wonderful West Virginia. In addition, she freelances extensively. She freely shares nuggets from her trove of equestrian knowledge at http://www.wvhorsetrainer.com/ and her real-world training blog, http://www.natural-horse-training-methods.com/

Kirsten's versatility comes through her holistic approach blending Natural Horsemanship, Classical training principles, Centered Riding ™ techniques and biomechanics. When appropriate, use of clicker training further accelerates learning. With this powerful and harmonious fusion, Kirsten is able to pinpoint and solve training challenges, tailoring the solution to the individual horse and rider regardless of their experience, discipline or learning style

Kirsten continually improves her own skills and expands her knowledge. She is certified with the American Riding Instructors Program in Dressage and Three-Day Eventing. As a teenager she achieved the USPC's elite "A" rating in riding, horsemanship, and veterinary knowledge. She credits her effectiveness to her teachers and mentors, both horse and human, from Olympians to Cowboys; and to God, in whom all things are possible

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kirsten_Lee

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Understanding the Causes of Horse Colic For All Serious Equine Health Practitioners

Common causes of Horse Colic.

1. Inadequate water intake

Horses need gallons of water a day, often more than 8 gallons. Depending on the grazing diet, exercise level and ambient temperature, you may need to raise the water supply considerably. Plenty of fresh clean water.

2. Onset of sudden feed changes

It is vitally important to make changes in grain supplements, over a period of 7-10 days. Care is needed,as many people do not know that hay can do just as much damage. Even though you may feed the same kind of hay, hay grown in two different locations will have different levels of sugar, starch and protein. Its important to know also the type of soil that you have on your land.

3. Overfeeding on grain

Most horses these days are fed way too much grain, out of convenience. Grains are low in fiber and high in starch. A horse has a limited ability to digest starch due to their digestive system which is designed to graze and digest grasses and plant material. Any sugars and starches that are not digested from grain, end up in the bowel, where they can cause major problems. Sugars and starches can create gas in bowel and bloating contributes to horse colic development.

4. Inadequate worming program

Worm infestation in horses are high on the list as a cause for horse colic. That is why it is so important to set your horse on a regular worming schedule. There are even companies on the internet that can help you with your worming schedule.

5. Lack of exercise

Regular exercise promotes intestinal mobility, as the horse moves, the bowel content gets broken up and mobilised. Also a horse that exercises consumes more water to lubricate and rehydrate regularly, thus also helping the bowels. A horse that is kept stalled all the time is an accident waiting to happen.

Horse colic is a preventable condition, one which has claimed many horses lives. Our aim is to help horse owners become more aware of the resources available to them to improve equine health related matter such as horse colic.

By Anthony Monteith

This article was submitted from Anthony Monteith who is a member of the Horse-Colic information blog. He is involved with his wife in the development of a retreat and treatment center for horses and horse owners in Ireland, called 'Shanto'. He has been involved with natural horsemanship methods and practices equine health related disciplines, such as equine massage. Please offers your comment, experience and view points about horse colic by visiting our info blog
http://www.horse-colic.info

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anthony_Monteith

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The Hidden Disease of Performance Horses

Horses, for all their size and power, are delicate, sensitive animals. For sport horses and other equine athletes, the difference between a great performer and a disabled pasture pet can be a very fine line. While physical injuries and ailments like colic are easily recognizable, signs of respiratory disorders can be very subtle, especially in the early stages. Yet, respiratory disease can have as much or even greater impact on the horse's well-being and performance than many more obvious problems.

The classic picture of risk is a mature horse (usually 6 or older) who is stabled during the winter. However, any horse can develop airway inflammation that can progress to serious disease over time. While it is always essential to watch your horse for subtle signs of illness, it is also important to understand that significant airway disease may be present long before obvious symptoms occur.

One study of horses of all ages housed in a conventional stable found that-although the horses all appeared perfectly healthy, were performing well, and had no outward signs of lung problems-all of them had microscopic evidence of inflammatory airway disease.

This suggests that any horse can develop respiratory problems. Housing, feed, bedding, weather, and activity are all factors that influence the risk for any individual horse. Horses involved in high-intensity activities are particularly susceptible, especially if they live, train, or work in cold-weather conditions. Exercising in frigid temperatures has been shown to cause inflammation in the lungs and airways, and may be a large factor in the development of respiratory infections and asthma.

Signs of respiratory problems include poor performance, tiring more easily, taking longer for breathing to return to normal after exercise, increased breathing rate or effort, increased nasal mucus, increased snorting, coughing, and wheezing. These signs can be extremely subtle. They may be almost unnoticeable, since they can develop gradually over time. If your horse is not performing at its peak and no other reason can be found, respiratory disease could be to blame.

Equine respiratory diseases are usually environmentally based. Allergies to dust, mold, mites, or other airborne particles frequently occur. Hay and straw are the most common sources of these particles. When mold spores, pollens, mites, or other particles are inhaled, the respiratory lining cells secrete mucus to try to lift and discharge the particles, thus stimulating the horse to blow them out (snort) or cough.

Respiratory allergies develop when the horse inhales certain particles, including dust and storage mites, molds, and pollens, and the immune system reacts extra-strongly to them. Some allergies are present from birth, but others develop over time, with chronic exposure. This is why problems are seen most often in older horses.

When airborne allergens get down into the airways, they irritate the cells and cause mucus secretion, which will trigger a snort or cough. However, if the horse is allergic to one or more of these particle types, inhaling them will also cause inflammation. Large numbers of white blood cells move into the area. Some of these cells secrete chemicals that cause swelling. Others produce antibodies to the allergen(s); this causes even more inflammation. Because of the mucus and inflammation, less air can get through. To make matters worse, smooth muscles in the walls of the lower airways constrict to prevent the allergens from passing further down into the lungs. This reduces the amount of total air space in the airways and lungs. Wheezing and coughing occur, which then worsen the irritation and inflammation in the lungs. It is a vicious circle in which the body's own defenses ultimately cause the most harm.

With mild allergies, symptoms may seem minor (or may not even be noticeable), and not affect the horse's performance; but the problem tends to get worse over time. Therefore, it's best to take preventive action early-before the allergic reaction gets worse.

It's worth noting that every exposure to the allergen causes inflammation that lasts for days, so horses that are outside during the day and only exposed to dust and allergens in the stable at night or in the arena are still at risk.

If not brought under control, airway inflammation can lead to Inflammatory Airway Disease (IAD), Reactive Airway Disease (RAD, also called Chronic Obstructive Pulmonary Disease--COPD--or "heaves.")

Environmental management is crucial to preventing and managing these horses. Excellent hygiene, good ventilation, and clean feed are the basics. Beyond environment, holistic care, such as giving herbs with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties can also be very helpful, and may go a long way toward preventing the development of career-ending respiratory disease.

By Jean Hofve, DVM

Dr. Jean Hofve is a retired holistic veterinarian with a special interest in herbal remedies for horses, and co-founder of Equina Wellness (http://www.equinawellness.com). Dr. Hofve also founded Spirit Essences Holistic Remedies for Animals (http://www.spiritessence.com) in 1995; and it remains the only line of flower essence formulas designed by a veterinarian. She is a certified Medicine Woman of the Nemenhah Native American Traditional Organization who uses holistic remedies as a part of body-mind-spiritual healing

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jean_Hofve,_DVM

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The Equine Respiratory System

The horse's respiratory system is large and complex, precisely suited to provide the right amount of oxygen for both ordinary and extreme conditions. It begins at the large nostrils that can expand to take in large amounts of air when the horse, a prey animal, has that "need for speed," and lined with a sophisticated defense system to keep out dust and airborne pathogens like bacteria and fungal spores.

The intake of air starts at the nostrils and moves through a long network of thin bones called turbinates. From there, it moves through the sinuses, located in the front part of the skull, and into the main airway, the trachea. At its lower end inside the chest, the trachea splits into two branches (one to each lung), which then subdivide many times until reaching the air sacs in the lungs, where oxygen is transported into the bloodstream.

The respiratory system resembles an upside-down tree, where the nostrils are the roots, the trachea is the trunk, and the branches (airways) multiply and get smaller (from large bronchi to tiny bronchioles) until reaching the leaves (air sacs), where gas exchange with the air takes place.

The respiratory tract is lined with specialized cells that perform many functions. The nostrils are lined with skin, which becomes a moist mucous membrane as it progresses inward. Olfactory cells that sense odor are numerous in the turbinates. Much of the tract is also lined with cilia. The nasal passages and sinuses warm and moisten the air as it flows toward the lungs, while the mucus and cilia trap small particles. The cilia move rhythmically to move mucus and particles upward and outward. The horse will then blow (snort) or cough to force these particles out of the system. These normal defenses help keep the lungs safe and healthy.

Infection-fighting white blood cells are also found along the respiratory tract as well as deep inside the lungs. These cells are crucial for defense against viruses, bacteria, and other organisms. However, they also cause inflammation that, left untreated, can lead to development of serious lung disease.

Since most of our horses no longer run wild in the great outdoors, good environmental management is needed to keep lung disease from developing. If your horse is stabled, make sure the barn has excellent ventilation, and keep doors, half-doors, and windows open as much as possible. If the weather is cold, it is better to blanket the horse than to close off sources of fresh air. Good stable hygiene (frequent removal of damp or soiled bedding) is also important.

All feeds should, of course, be as clean and as high quality as possible. It's best if hay is stored away from horse stalls and kept as dry as possible to prevent mold growth.While stalls are being cleaned, the horse should be removed to an outdoor run or other secure area until the dust settles.

These simple precautions will help keep your horse safe and sound and performing at its best!

Trivia: Here's a little respiratory trivia for you...Quarter horses got their name because they are extremely fast runners for 1/4 of a mile. They're even faster than Thoroughbreds, but only for that distance. Why 1/4 mile? Because that's how far they can run on one breath. Other breeds, as well as horses running for longer distances, take more breaths, and it slows them down. By not taking a breath, Quarter horses can put 100% of their energy into running; but once they run out of oxygen from that first breath, the effort of breathing slows down their pace. Now that's the ultimate sprinter!

By Jean Hofve, DVM

Dr. Jean Hofve is a retired holistic veterinarian with a special interest in herbal therapy for horses; find her herbal respiratory system support at http://www.equinawellness.com Dr. Hofve aso founded Spirit Essences Holistic Remedies for Animals http://www.spiritessence.com in 1995; and it remains the only line of flower essence formulas designed by a veterinarian. She is a certified Medicine Woman of the Nemenhah Native American Traditional Organization who uses holistic remedies as a part of body-mind-spiritual healing

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jean_Hofve,_DVM

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Tips For Buying Horses - Know Great Horse Facts

Before you purchase a horse is it is important to understand that you will have a long-term commitment. You want to make sure that you do your homework and research all that is involved in owning and taking care of a horse. Always make sure before you make a purchase that you have enough room that is required so that your horse will be able to move around. You also want to have a good idea of what type of force you are looking to purchase. If you have been to the stables and have been riding then you may have a pretty good idea of what you like and what you don't like.

The most important thing that you do is take your time when searching for a horse. The biggest mistake that most people may is that they are so excited to make this big purchase they rush into it. Just by being patient and not rushing to make a purchase you can save yourself a lot of time and headache buying the wrong one. It is important that before you buy awards you have some knowledge of writing and what it takes to be patient with these animals. You may want to also consider leasing a horse before purchasing that will give you a better idea of what you will be getting into.

Remember before you make any purchase that you need to have all your homework done and understand what it means to own a horse. It is also very important for you to have enough room to keep the horse so they can move around. Never accept any first offer that a person makes who is trying to sell you this type of animal. In many cases people can make the wrong decision and purchase a horse only based on excitement.

By Bryan Burbank

How to: Buying a Horse

Advice for: Horse Buying Tips

Bryan Burbank is an expert in the field of Horse Riding and Training

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bryan_Burbank

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5 Horse Training Secrets to Get Rid of Bad Horse Behavior

Your horse runs over you or crowds you. He bites. Or maybe balks, bucks, or tosses his head. He won't take the bridle, and he rears, runs away and bolts.

If any of these describe your horse, then you're dealing with bad horse behavior. While each of these problems can have their own specific solutions, it turns out that by applying some very general but effective horse training principles, we can go a long way toward eliminating all of these problems.

When it comes to horse behavior, many problems can be reduced to one of two issues with the horse. If a horse is acting badly he is either:

1. Afraid (acting out of fear)

2. Dominant (acting in a way that disrespects you)

We can get around both problems by being an effective leader for our horse. If we are a strong and effective yet compassionate leader, our horse will not be afraid because he knows he can trust us. And if we are a strong and effective leader, a dominance-minded horse won't be naughty with us. This can be done with proper ground training.

These days there are a myriad of ground training techniques. But its possible to identify a few key items you should be using on every horse that will help establish leadership. Here are five key methods that produce all around general results regardless of the type or horse you have or his disposition, or what type of "bad horse behavior" he is showing:

1. Lead your horse properly. When leading a horse on the ground, you're not just walking from place to place-you're using body language to communicate with your horse on multiple levels. By leading him properly, we can show the horse that we are a confident leader to be trusted-and someone that he must follow. A confident leader is one worthy of being followed-this helps build confidence in the horse that is afraid and shows a dominant horse that he is not the leader-you are.

2. At-Liberty Round-Pen Training. A great way to become a leader for your horse is to utilize at-liberty training in the round pen. By mimicking the behavior of the dominant horse in the herd, we can establish leadership in a way that not only speaks to the horse in a way he naturally understands, but in a way that gets rid of many problems like crowding, balking, being hard to catch, kicking, and biting.

3. Back Your Horse Up. Yes, backing up is a simple exercise, but it can be made challenging as well as basic. Not only that, its a sure fire way to build up trust with your horse, and to also show leadership by asking him to walk backwards where he can't see.

4. Flexing. By practicing flexing on the ground, you train your horse to respond lightly to the reins and teach him how to respond to an emergency stop.

5. Get and Keep the Attention of Your Horse. If you're the trusted leader of your horse-he is going to pay attention to you at all times. Simple exercises can be performed with your horse during groundwork training that make this automatic.

Building a solid horse training foundation with groundwork will allow you to eliminate fear, and prevent a horse from dominating you. by putting in some extra effort now, you can have a sfae and fun riding experience later.

By David McMahon

David McMahon is a free lance author who owns 3 horses and writes about horse training issues. For more information please visit Mastering Basic Groundwork (Horse Training)

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How to Ride a Horse - The Top 5 Mistakes Made by the New Rider

It is hard enough to start out learning how to ride a horse. Do yourself a favor and take advantage of these five guidelines that will assist your efforts and make your goals attainable faster!
1. Start out with the right horse. So often it seems someone falls in love with a horse that they think is beautiful, or exciting, or loving and because of this unfettered commitment, continue riding a horse that is completely wrong for them. Horses come in all sizes, colors, breeds, and talents, just as humans vary in experience and talent. If you are riding a horse that is simply too hot blooded for you, or too rough gaited for you, or simply too bull-headed for your temperament, you will not be happy. Some things can be changed. Your horse's training can improve and your skills as a rider will improve. But, there is simply nothing that will change that rough gait of his that throws out your already-weak back. There is nothing that will change his hot blooded spirit that you find so difficult to control. Have the good sense to rethink your mount and consider trading or finding a horse more suitable for you.

2. Many riders do not know when they are getting into trouble. Riders can get into precarious situations simply because they lack the knowledge to know better. Take the time to learn about horse behavior, their instincts, their natural reaction to their surroundings and use that knowledge. I have seen a beginner riding a mare who was in season too close to a paddock in which a stallion was turned out. That is a potentially catastrophic situation! The old adage about rookies who "know just enough to be dangerous" could not be more true than with horses! You gain a certain comfort level after a short time of riding that gives one a false sense of competence. There is SO much to learn about horses and horsemanship. It is a lifelong journey to become the best horseman you can become.

3. One of the most frustrating things an instructor deals with is the new rider who has an excuse for everything they are being asked to change. It goes like this:

Instructor: "Lower your hands"
Student: "I can't because my reins are too long."
Instructor: "Well, shorten your reins"
Student: "I can't because ....blah, blah, blah"

You get the idea. I call this the "shut up and just do it" rule. There is so much to learn and so many things to think about at the same time "Keep your heels down, quiet your hands, sit up straight in the saddle, keep your chin up, keep a light contact with his mouth, now, heels down again!" Until it comes naturally, it seems to be a textbook of rules to remember! The more you hear what to do, the more stiff you become, the more difficult it seems and the more impossible to achieve. But just hang in there! Keep listening, stop talking and keep trying to do what the instructor is telling you. Have faith that it will all gradually become muscle memory and will come much more naturally after more and more hours in the saddle. It is certainly okay to tell your instructor if you are confused or have a question. Generally speaking, however, be quiet, keep trying, keep practicing, and keep the faith!

4. New riders are usually so enthralled with their new sport that they pay more attention to themselves than to what is going on around them. Everything is so new, they lose themselves in what they are doing and that is understandable. However, new riders will benefit so much more if they stop, listen, and learn from other professional riders, and I mean professionals. It is not going to help you much if you are trying to augment your equine education with a barn pal who has had all of three riding lessons more than you have. Watch the horsemen who have the skills and the knowledge of horsemanship you can truly learn from. I remember in my earlier days of showing horses, I would go to the warm up arena at the horse show, late at night and watch the professional trainers working their horses. Although I could not hear much, I could watch their techniques, their manner, their demeanor, their methods to communicate certain things with their horse. Even if I did not get it all at the time, their professionalism and their respect for the horse left an indelible impression on me.

5. Lastly, gain a realistic perspective of yourself, your goals and how to attain them. A frequent mistake made by new enthusiasts is to evaluate their progress based on how they placed in a horse show class. As with so many things, it is the journey that is worth while. Do not get caught up in who got first place, who got second place. It is only one person's opinion anyway. It is not an indictment of your ability or your horses' ability if you do not win a horse show class. Focus on the larger goal, the pursuit of excellence within yourself, achieving that union with your horse. Do not worry about anybody else, including your competitors and your fellow barn students.

For more information go to to http://www.horsebacklessonsguide.com or http://www.horsebacklessonsguide.com.

By Lisa Blackstone

Lisa B. Blackstone has been involved in the Arabian horse business all of her life. She is a practicing attorney in the Atlanta, Georgia area. Recently, Lisa launched two websites designed to teach the novice rider about horses and horsemanship. You can visit them at http://www.HorseAndRiderClub.com and http://www.AmericanHorseAssociation.com She is the host of The Horse and Rider Radio Show at Radio Sandy Springs.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lisa_Blackstone

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Ten Money Saving Horse Care Tips

Today, everyone is looking for horse care savings ideas. Fortunately, there are a lot of simple, practical ideas that can add up to big savings.

1. Prevention:

Keep everything running smoothly. That includes your horse, yourself and your equipment.

Pay close attention to your horse. Every day, do a daily horse checkup. Check for food and water consumption, manure production and general demeanor. Scan her body, pick out her hooves and watch her walk. You'll both benefit if you catch problems early.

Keep up a regular program of dental checkups, hoof care, worming and vaccinating.

Use caution when working around your horse. Watch for kicks and foot tramples when you're on the ground, and injuries sustained while riding. Stay limber and in shape so you can stay on top of your horse care (and your horse!)

Keep your equipment in good shape. Maintain your vehicles and tractors to save on gas as well as repairs. Clean your tack and store it properly. Good quality equipment can last for years if you take care of it properly.

2. Do It Yourself:

There are a lot of horse care tasks you can do yourself. You can learn how to give shots, pull and braid manes, clip your horse and clean his sheath. Ask your veterinarian for instructions on giving shots and cleaning the sheath.

3. Make It Yourself:

With a few simple tools and some skills, you can make your own jumps, tack boxes and horse clothes. And everyone can make horse toys-it's as simple as stringing up a turnip!

4. Consign It!

Visit your local tack shop. They may have gently used items available for purchase. Blankets, tack, even clothing may be waiting for your keen eye.

Take a hard look at your gear, too. If you haven't used it in a year, think about consigning it. Couldn't you use those extra dollars? And the extra space?

5. Barter:

Do you have a special skill? Something you could barter in exchange for horse care services? If you can fix a car, design a website, setup a home theater, drive someone to the airport, babysit...you've got a barterable skill. Don't be afraid to ask!

6. Don't Waste:

Don't waste hay or feed. Learn to reduce horse feed costs for big savings. Protect hay to minimize loss.

7. Don't Overdo It:

Don't oversupplement your horse. If your horse is healthy and eating a nutritious diet, she may not need much in the way of supplements.

8. Be A Cheapskate:

Prowl the dollar stores for great bargains on things like towels, storage containers, wipes, combs and measuring cups. Never pass up a garage sale-these are great sources of used tools, vacuums...you never know!

9. Buddy Up:

Your farrier or equine dentist may be willing to reduce fees if s/he can see more than one horse at a visit. See if you have friends that may want to participate in a group visit.

A group might help reduce hay costs, too. If you can gather a few horse owners together to purchase a larger quantity of hay, you may be able to negotiate a better price.

10. Offer Your Services:

Offer to exercise someone else's horse. You can make money doing what you love!

Saving money on horse care is more important than ever. Take the time to look at your horse care routines-there may be room for some money saving improvements!

By Moira Clune and Noreen Girao

Let Practical Horsekeeping show you how to become an efficient, effective equine expert! Moira Clune and Noreen Girao provide helpful horse care information with a practical twist at http://www.PracticalHorsekeeping.com/ Our free horse care ezine shows you the fastest, safest, smartest ways to care for your horse and create an organized, appealing environment that works for horse and rider! Sign up today and get our free, veterinarian approved Colic Preparedness Report that shows you exactly what to do in a horse colic emergency. Join us today and start getting practical!

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Horse Hoof Care - No Hoof, No Horse

A basic part of horse hoof care is simply picking out the mud, manure, stones and other debris from the sole of your horse's hooves. It is simple and yet, this one of the most neglect parts of horse care. Keeping your horse's hooves clean goes a long way to help prevent common hoof ailments. At times, your horse may get small stones lodged in the grooves of the frog, which can cause bruising. Picking out your horse's hooves also removes packed mud or snow, which can make it uncomfortable for your horse to walk. Cleaning your horse's feet will allow you to see problems such as a puncture wound from something like a nail.
You will certainly hear or read from horsemen recommending you pick your horse's feet at least once daily, as well as before and after a ride. This is no doubt good advice, but in practical terms, don't go longer than a week without cleaning and inspecting your horse's hooves.

Keeping your horse's feet clean and dry as much as possible helps prevent thrush. The flooring of the stable should not be damp and allow for drainage. Your horse's paddock area should provide drainage to minimize the amount of time he has to stand in water and mud. Most of the moisture your horse's hooves need come from within the hoof itself and is provided by a healthy diet. Constant contact with wet conditions promotes rapid drying of the hooves and will cause them to start cracking and chipping.

Applying a hoof dressing can improve the moisture content of hooves and help prevent them from cracking. Rubbing hoof dressing on all parts of the hoof including the hoof wall, frog, heel and coronet can stimulate healthy new hoof growth. However, you should not apply hoof dressing too often as it may prevent the hooves from absorbing moisture naturally.

In the wild, a horse's feet wear down about the same rate as they grow. A domestic horse's hooves typically do not wear down as quickly since their hooves may be shod preventing them from wearing naturally, or simply because they are not subjected to such severe living conditions and consequently their feet grow faster than can be worn down.

In general, hooves need to be trimmed every six to eight weeks requiring the routine care of a professional farrier. The services of a reliable and experienced farrier are vital to helping keep your horse's hooves healthy. When choosing a farrier, ask other horse owners in your area and your veterinarian for a recommendation. Do not wait until you need a farrier before trying to find one.

Your farrier can help you decide whether or not your horse needs to be shod. Horses that are ridden a lot or work on hard terrain may need horseshoes or boots to protect their hooves. If your horse's hooves wear too much, the protective outer covering starts to be lost and the foot can become sensitive causing lameness. On the other hand, if your horse is more of a field ornament to be looked at or is only ridden occasionally then he most likely doesn't need to be shod. Regardless if your horse is shod or not, his hooves will need regular trimming to keep them shaped properly.

Without regular trimming, a horse's hooves will grow too long and can lead to hoof splitting, chipping, cracking and lameness. Long hooves can put your horse's leg limbs out of balance. Hooves need to be trimmed to keep them at the correct length and shape so contact with the ground will be uniform and will not cause the hoof to chip or split. Shod horses especially need a farrier's attention on a regular basis due to hoof growth loosening the shoes and growing over the edge of the shoes.

By Randall Holman

Randall Holman, site owner of Front Range Frenzy and horse enthusiast, is the author of the above article. You will find other easy and practical basic horse care information on his website: http://www.FrontRangeFrenzy.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Randall_Holman

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Horse Stall Mats - Different Types, Advantages and Disadvantages

Horse stall mats are becoming increasingly popular, due to the advantages they provide over other stall floor surfaces:

• Yielding. The traditional concrete floor is very hard. Unless you provide a thick layer of bedding, this hardness can stress joints, possibly injure feet, and cause sore points where the horse lays down to rest or sleep. Mats provide a softer and more yielding surface which is more comfortable for horses and less likely to result in impact stress injuries.

• Warmth. The materials used to make horse stall mats are naturally insulating. This is both more comfortable and healthier for horses, especially in winter.

• Traction. Concrete and wooden floors can be slippery when wet; mats provide better traction and reduce this risk to horses.

• Smooth. Many mats have a smooth surface, which is much easier to clean than concrete or wood surfaces.

• Sterilization. Stall mats can be easily sterilized with a disinfectant, which is difficult with absorbent surfaces such as wood or earth. Especially in the case of a horse contraction a contagious disease, the ability to sterilize the stall floor is important.

• Drainage. Unlike concrete, mats allow urine to drain off. Usually this happens at the joints between mats, although a few types of mats allow the urine to drain through the mat itself.

• Bedding. Many owners find that less bedding is required with stall mats, partly because the mats perform the function of bedding (insulation, soft and comfortable surface, shock absorption, traction) and partly because the ability to drain off urine means that less bedding is soiled. This saves not only on bedding costs, but also in terms of the time and money associated with stall cleaning.

A mat floor can be laid on top of any hard, non-moving surface such as concrete, asphalt and wooden floors. As such, mats are more a floor covering, rather than a stand-alone floor. Some mats (the thicker and stronger ones) can also be laid on compacted stone, provided that that stones do not exceed a certain size (large stones can cause bumps or even tears in the mats). Soft surfaces, such as earth or sand, are unsuitable as they can move under the mats, resulting in depressions in the mats. Eventually, this can lead to separations between the mats or even tearing of the mats.

Stall mats vary in types, quality and performance characteristics. Consequently, selecting a stall mat for individual requirements requires consideration of a number of factors. The important differences between various stall mats are in terms of:

• Material. The most commonly used material is rubber, although there are different types and qualities of rubber used (largely dependent on manufacturer). There are also non-rubber mats, made out of high-tech materials such as EVA. High quality rubber tends to be more expensive, but is more durable. High-tech materials such as EVA tend to have somewhat different performance characteristics (e.g. more shock absorbent) and tend to be lighter for a given size.

• Size. Mats usually vary in size from about 30cm square (a square foot) to about 2 square meters (3 square yards). However, we have seen mats up to 12 feet by 12 feet (almost 4 meters by 4 meters), designed to cover an entire stall with a single piece (which weighs 600 pounds or almost 300kg). Large mats are heavier (the bigger ones weight 100 Kg. or 200 pounds each) which make placement more difficult. However, their weight and size is an advantage in that it makes them less likely to move once put in place and also less likely for edges or corners to curl up. Smaller mats are easier to work with. In the event of a tear or other damage, it is cheaper to replace a small mat than a large one.

• Thickness. The thickness varies from about 1 centimeter to over 2 centimeters. Thicker mats have 4 advantages: tend to be more durable, are less likely for the edges to curl, less likely for the mats to move, thickness is usually an indication of quality. However, as thickness increases, so do both price and weight.

• Weight. The weight depends on the type of material (EVA is much lighter then rubber) and the thickness of the mat. Heavy mats are more likely to stay in place, whereas lighter mats are convenient if you are often travelling with your horse (e.g. between horse shows and competitions) and like to take a portable mat with you. One of the advantages of a mat made from EVA instead of rubber is that it weighs only about a quarter as much as rubber, so is more suitable if you need to move it often.

• Interlocking. Some mats interlock, while others have straight edges and rely simply on their weight to hold them in place. All else being the same (size, weight, thickness), the interlocking mats stay in place better and are far less likely for edges to lift. Some mats are designer to lock and unlock easily (for easy transport if you move locations with your horse often) while others are designed to lock firmly in place (making transport more difficult, but providing better performance in static installations).

• Quality. Like any product, quality varies. A long guarantee (5 to 10 years) is an indication of quality. Thicker mats are usually of better quality than thin ones. Given 2 rubber mats of the same size, if one is substantially heavier it is probably of better quality (the lighter one is probably not pure rubber, but instead rubber mixed with inferior and lighter materials). None of these is an absolute mark of quality, but usually they are good indications. It is also worth checking if the manufacturer has a reputation for producing quality products. Also ask if the rubber has be revulcanized (which is good) or if the rubber has been bound with urethane glue (lower quality).

• Permeable. The mats should not be permeable, which is to say that urine should not be able to enter the surface of the mat. If the materials or production methods are of low quality, the mats may be partly permeable, resulting in urine entering the mat and producing odours.

• Porous. Some mats are porous, allowing urine to grain through. However, the majority are not porous, although urine can drain through the joins where the mats meet. With smaller mats, there are more joins, so the urine tends to run through more. This can either be an advantage or a disadvantage (see discussion below).

• Flat, grooved or footed bottom. Many mats have flat bottoms. With flat bottoms, any urine that gets under the mats (for example, draining through at the joints between mats) can be trapped there. If you have a permeable surface under the mats (e.g. compacted stone) this may not be an issue, but if you have a non-permeable surface (e.g. concrete) under the mats, you do not want to have trapped urine releasing ammonia and odours. With groves or feet, such urine may be able to drain off (whether this happens in practice will depend on factors such as the slope of the underlying surface and whether there are dips in the underlying surface).

• Portable. Some mats are designer to be portable, others are not. Factors to evaluate when considering portability include: weight, size, ability to roll up. If they are interlocking, check that they can be locked and unlocked easily and without special tools.

• Reversible. Some stall mats have a top side and a bottom side, while others can be reversed (flipped over). The advantage of the latter is that when one side shows wear, you can flip them over to extent the lifespan.

• Flat or textured top. Some mats have a flat and smooth top, while others have a textured top. Smooth tops are easier to clean (the groves or bumps on textured mats tend to trap dirt), while textured tops provide horses with better traction. Some people buy mats with a grooved bottom and then flip them over so that the grooved side is up; this is particularly done for high-traffic areas such as corridors or washing areas (where the water and soap would otherwise produce a slippery surface).

• Cut to fit. Stall mats come in a great variety of sizes. However, to get a close fit, you may need to cut the mats. In this case, before buying the mats, check that they are designed to allow this.

• Price. Prices vary, but as a rough indication look at 20-40 euros per square meter.

For photos of different types (interlocking, textured), see horse floor mats.

Drainage

If the urine drains through the mats rather than resting on top of them, the amount of bedding which is soiled is greatly reduced. This reduces the amount of time required to clean the stall, reduces the amount of replacement bedding required, and reduces the amount of storage space required for soiled bedding.

Although all of these are important benefits, one must consider what happens to the urine after it has drained through the mats. If the surface underneath has good drainage (e.g. thick layer of crushed stone), then the urine can drain off. However, if the surface underneath is impermeable (e.g. concrete), then the urine simply builds up under the mats, where it can release ammonia into the air (which is unhealthy for horses stabled there, in particular for their lungs) and produce unpleasant smells. Although one could from time to time lift up the mats and clean underneath them, the fact remains the cleaning urine under the mats is more difficult than cleaning urine on top of them.

Consequently, depending on the underlying floor surface you may prefer that urine drains through, or you may prefer that it does not. Depending on your preference, you should chose mats accordingly: small mats drain more than larges ones (joins are closer together and there are more of them), straight edge mats drain more than interlocking, porous mats drain more than non-porous.

If you decide to use mats that easily allow urine to drain through, you should consider the following:

• Choose a mat with grooved or footed bottoms, so that the urine can flow off rather than being trapped.

• Try to have a floor with good drainage. If this is not possible, allow the urine to run off by using a floor which is flat (no dips where urine can pool), smooth (so that liquids run easily) and with a slant so that liquids run off.

• Consider choosing mats whose design and weight allow them to be easily lifted out, permitting periodical washing down of the floor underneath.

Cleaning

A stall with rubber mats is cleaned out in much the same way (hay fork and/or shovel) as any other stall. Many people also periodically use a water hose to wash them down periodically. If the mats have feet or groves underneath, this can also help to flush out urine that has drained through between the joints (see above discussion about drainage).

One can also use a pressure jet. While this is very effective, be careful not to hold the pressure jet immediately against the mat surface as this may damage the mat (your pressure jet manual should state the minimum distance to hold the pressure jet away from surfaces being cleaned).

If your mat must be absolutely clean, other cleaning tools that may be useful are a scrub brush, soap and disinfectant. Before using any chemical product on your mat, just the instructions provided with your mat to make sure that the chemical will not harm it.

By Doug M Stewart

Appaloosa Stallion provides stud stallion services and advertises horses for sale. It also provides general information about horse care.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Doug_M_Stewart

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3 Simple Steps to Improve Your Relationship With Your Horse

Would you like to have a better relationship with your horse? Because horse people "love" their horses, they want to feel like their horses love them back. If you want unconditional love from an animal, get a dog. Humans and dogs have a more similar social organization than horses. Horses don't want your love. They want safety and security. They need to be able to trust and respect their herd mates, and particularly the herd leader - the alpha - to provide safety for the entire herd. Here are 3 simple steps you can take to gain your horse's respect, build the foundation for trust and become your horse's herd leader.
1. Awareness - Develop constant awareness of yourself, your horse and your environment. In the wild, horses' survival depends upon their level of awareness. As prey animals, they need to be aware predators before they are too close. The top horse in the herd is the most aware horse. Not the biggest or the strongest. The most aware of potential danger so that she can tell the rest of the herd to move. The herd communicates through body language. When the alpha horse says there is danger and it's time to move, there is no dispute or discussion.

2. Boundaries - Set appropriate boundaries that tell your horse where not to go. Horses do not pull each other around, they push each other. The horse that pushes another horse into a boundary is the better horse. A horse pushed into a boundary cannot run away. Not a good place to be for a prey animal. Use "contact" to create boundaries that tell your horse where not to go. Whether working with your horse in a halter or bridle, leading, lunging or riding, contact through the rope or reins creates boundaries. Respect your horse's personal space (the head and neck) and ask that she respect yours. The alpha horse does not get bitten or kicked, pushed or blocked by any other horse in the herd. The alpha horse can go anywhere, take the best food, drinks first and all without challenge or question. If your horse nips you, threatens to lift her foot to kick or strike, pushes you with her head or shoulder, leans into you or pins her ears when you go into her stall, she is not seeing you as her trusted leader.

3. Consistency - Horse's feel secure when the rules stay the same and they know what to expect. Whether you on the ground or in the saddle, apply the same rules every time you are with your horse. Horses are reading us as soon as they can see us not just when we are working with them. They don't know that we don't know their language. If we don't make sense to them they will tune us out, push us around or be terribly insecure and flighty around us.

Riding starts with ground work. Your relationship with your horse starts the moment your horse can see you. They don't miss a thing. In the wild, their survival depends on their level of awareness of their herd mates, their ability to communicate through body language and their awareness of their environment. If you want to develop a better relationship with your horse, start applying these 3 simple steps - Awareness, Boundaries and Contact - and you will create a trusting and respectful relationship. Your horse will love you for it.

By Anne Gage

Anne Gage is a Double Certified riding coach & horse trainer. She teaches adult riders to be confidently work with their horses, improve their riding skills and bring the joy back into their riding experience. Her training and coaching methods are based on building mutual trust & respect between horse and human. Anne coaches and trains clients out of High Point Farm near Orangeville, Ontario, Canada and also travels to other locations giving one & two day clinics. For more information, visit her website http://www.annegage.com

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