How to Ride a Horse - The Top 5 Mistakes Made by the New Rider

It is hard enough to start out learning how to ride a horse. Do yourself a favor and take advantage of these five guidelines that will assist your efforts and make your goals attainable faster!
1. Start out with the right horse. So often it seems someone falls in love with a horse that they think is beautiful, or exciting, or loving and because of this unfettered commitment, continue riding a horse that is completely wrong for them. Horses come in all sizes, colors, breeds, and talents, just as humans vary in experience and talent. If you are riding a horse that is simply too hot blooded for you, or too rough gaited for you, or simply too bull-headed for your temperament, you will not be happy. Some things can be changed. Your horse's training can improve and your skills as a rider will improve. But, there is simply nothing that will change that rough gait of his that throws out your already-weak back. There is nothing that will change his hot blooded spirit that you find so difficult to control. Have the good sense to rethink your mount and consider trading or finding a horse more suitable for you.

2. Many riders do not know when they are getting into trouble. Riders can get into precarious situations simply because they lack the knowledge to know better. Take the time to learn about horse behavior, their instincts, their natural reaction to their surroundings and use that knowledge. I have seen a beginner riding a mare who was in season too close to a paddock in which a stallion was turned out. That is a potentially catastrophic situation! The old adage about rookies who "know just enough to be dangerous" could not be more true than with horses! You gain a certain comfort level after a short time of riding that gives one a false sense of competence. There is SO much to learn about horses and horsemanship. It is a lifelong journey to become the best horseman you can become.

3. One of the most frustrating things an instructor deals with is the new rider who has an excuse for everything they are being asked to change. It goes like this:

Instructor: "Lower your hands"
Student: "I can't because my reins are too long."
Instructor: "Well, shorten your reins"
Student: "I can't because ....blah, blah, blah"

You get the idea. I call this the "shut up and just do it" rule. There is so much to learn and so many things to think about at the same time "Keep your heels down, quiet your hands, sit up straight in the saddle, keep your chin up, keep a light contact with his mouth, now, heels down again!" Until it comes naturally, it seems to be a textbook of rules to remember! The more you hear what to do, the more stiff you become, the more difficult it seems and the more impossible to achieve. But just hang in there! Keep listening, stop talking and keep trying to do what the instructor is telling you. Have faith that it will all gradually become muscle memory and will come much more naturally after more and more hours in the saddle. It is certainly okay to tell your instructor if you are confused or have a question. Generally speaking, however, be quiet, keep trying, keep practicing, and keep the faith!

4. New riders are usually so enthralled with their new sport that they pay more attention to themselves than to what is going on around them. Everything is so new, they lose themselves in what they are doing and that is understandable. However, new riders will benefit so much more if they stop, listen, and learn from other professional riders, and I mean professionals. It is not going to help you much if you are trying to augment your equine education with a barn pal who has had all of three riding lessons more than you have. Watch the horsemen who have the skills and the knowledge of horsemanship you can truly learn from. I remember in my earlier days of showing horses, I would go to the warm up arena at the horse show, late at night and watch the professional trainers working their horses. Although I could not hear much, I could watch their techniques, their manner, their demeanor, their methods to communicate certain things with their horse. Even if I did not get it all at the time, their professionalism and their respect for the horse left an indelible impression on me.

5. Lastly, gain a realistic perspective of yourself, your goals and how to attain them. A frequent mistake made by new enthusiasts is to evaluate their progress based on how they placed in a horse show class. As with so many things, it is the journey that is worth while. Do not get caught up in who got first place, who got second place. It is only one person's opinion anyway. It is not an indictment of your ability or your horses' ability if you do not win a horse show class. Focus on the larger goal, the pursuit of excellence within yourself, achieving that union with your horse. Do not worry about anybody else, including your competitors and your fellow barn students.

For more information go to to http://www.horsebacklessonsguide.com or http://www.horsebacklessonsguide.com.

By Lisa Blackstone

Lisa B. Blackstone has been involved in the Arabian horse business all of her life. She is a practicing attorney in the Atlanta, Georgia area. Recently, Lisa launched two websites designed to teach the novice rider about horses and horsemanship. You can visit them at http://www.HorseAndRiderClub.com and http://www.AmericanHorseAssociation.com She is the host of The Horse and Rider Radio Show at Radio Sandy Springs.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lisa_Blackstone

Read More..

Ten Money Saving Horse Care Tips

Today, everyone is looking for horse care savings ideas. Fortunately, there are a lot of simple, practical ideas that can add up to big savings.

1. Prevention:

Keep everything running smoothly. That includes your horse, yourself and your equipment.

Pay close attention to your horse. Every day, do a daily horse checkup. Check for food and water consumption, manure production and general demeanor. Scan her body, pick out her hooves and watch her walk. You'll both benefit if you catch problems early.

Keep up a regular program of dental checkups, hoof care, worming and vaccinating.

Use caution when working around your horse. Watch for kicks and foot tramples when you're on the ground, and injuries sustained while riding. Stay limber and in shape so you can stay on top of your horse care (and your horse!)

Keep your equipment in good shape. Maintain your vehicles and tractors to save on gas as well as repairs. Clean your tack and store it properly. Good quality equipment can last for years if you take care of it properly.

2. Do It Yourself:

There are a lot of horse care tasks you can do yourself. You can learn how to give shots, pull and braid manes, clip your horse and clean his sheath. Ask your veterinarian for instructions on giving shots and cleaning the sheath.

3. Make It Yourself:

With a few simple tools and some skills, you can make your own jumps, tack boxes and horse clothes. And everyone can make horse toys-it's as simple as stringing up a turnip!

4. Consign It!

Visit your local tack shop. They may have gently used items available for purchase. Blankets, tack, even clothing may be waiting for your keen eye.

Take a hard look at your gear, too. If you haven't used it in a year, think about consigning it. Couldn't you use those extra dollars? And the extra space?

5. Barter:

Do you have a special skill? Something you could barter in exchange for horse care services? If you can fix a car, design a website, setup a home theater, drive someone to the airport, babysit...you've got a barterable skill. Don't be afraid to ask!

6. Don't Waste:

Don't waste hay or feed. Learn to reduce horse feed costs for big savings. Protect hay to minimize loss.

7. Don't Overdo It:

Don't oversupplement your horse. If your horse is healthy and eating a nutritious diet, she may not need much in the way of supplements.

8. Be A Cheapskate:

Prowl the dollar stores for great bargains on things like towels, storage containers, wipes, combs and measuring cups. Never pass up a garage sale-these are great sources of used tools, vacuums...you never know!

9. Buddy Up:

Your farrier or equine dentist may be willing to reduce fees if s/he can see more than one horse at a visit. See if you have friends that may want to participate in a group visit.

A group might help reduce hay costs, too. If you can gather a few horse owners together to purchase a larger quantity of hay, you may be able to negotiate a better price.

10. Offer Your Services:

Offer to exercise someone else's horse. You can make money doing what you love!

Saving money on horse care is more important than ever. Take the time to look at your horse care routines-there may be room for some money saving improvements!

By Moira Clune and Noreen Girao

Let Practical Horsekeeping show you how to become an efficient, effective equine expert! Moira Clune and Noreen Girao provide helpful horse care information with a practical twist at http://www.PracticalHorsekeeping.com/ Our free horse care ezine shows you the fastest, safest, smartest ways to care for your horse and create an organized, appealing environment that works for horse and rider! Sign up today and get our free, veterinarian approved Colic Preparedness Report that shows you exactly what to do in a horse colic emergency. Join us today and start getting practical!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Moira_Clune

Read More..

Horse Hoof Care - No Hoof, No Horse

A basic part of horse hoof care is simply picking out the mud, manure, stones and other debris from the sole of your horse's hooves. It is simple and yet, this one of the most neglect parts of horse care. Keeping your horse's hooves clean goes a long way to help prevent common hoof ailments. At times, your horse may get small stones lodged in the grooves of the frog, which can cause bruising. Picking out your horse's hooves also removes packed mud or snow, which can make it uncomfortable for your horse to walk. Cleaning your horse's feet will allow you to see problems such as a puncture wound from something like a nail.
You will certainly hear or read from horsemen recommending you pick your horse's feet at least once daily, as well as before and after a ride. This is no doubt good advice, but in practical terms, don't go longer than a week without cleaning and inspecting your horse's hooves.

Keeping your horse's feet clean and dry as much as possible helps prevent thrush. The flooring of the stable should not be damp and allow for drainage. Your horse's paddock area should provide drainage to minimize the amount of time he has to stand in water and mud. Most of the moisture your horse's hooves need come from within the hoof itself and is provided by a healthy diet. Constant contact with wet conditions promotes rapid drying of the hooves and will cause them to start cracking and chipping.

Applying a hoof dressing can improve the moisture content of hooves and help prevent them from cracking. Rubbing hoof dressing on all parts of the hoof including the hoof wall, frog, heel and coronet can stimulate healthy new hoof growth. However, you should not apply hoof dressing too often as it may prevent the hooves from absorbing moisture naturally.

In the wild, a horse's feet wear down about the same rate as they grow. A domestic horse's hooves typically do not wear down as quickly since their hooves may be shod preventing them from wearing naturally, or simply because they are not subjected to such severe living conditions and consequently their feet grow faster than can be worn down.

In general, hooves need to be trimmed every six to eight weeks requiring the routine care of a professional farrier. The services of a reliable and experienced farrier are vital to helping keep your horse's hooves healthy. When choosing a farrier, ask other horse owners in your area and your veterinarian for a recommendation. Do not wait until you need a farrier before trying to find one.

Your farrier can help you decide whether or not your horse needs to be shod. Horses that are ridden a lot or work on hard terrain may need horseshoes or boots to protect their hooves. If your horse's hooves wear too much, the protective outer covering starts to be lost and the foot can become sensitive causing lameness. On the other hand, if your horse is more of a field ornament to be looked at or is only ridden occasionally then he most likely doesn't need to be shod. Regardless if your horse is shod or not, his hooves will need regular trimming to keep them shaped properly.

Without regular trimming, a horse's hooves will grow too long and can lead to hoof splitting, chipping, cracking and lameness. Long hooves can put your horse's leg limbs out of balance. Hooves need to be trimmed to keep them at the correct length and shape so contact with the ground will be uniform and will not cause the hoof to chip or split. Shod horses especially need a farrier's attention on a regular basis due to hoof growth loosening the shoes and growing over the edge of the shoes.

By Randall Holman

Randall Holman, site owner of Front Range Frenzy and horse enthusiast, is the author of the above article. You will find other easy and practical basic horse care information on his website: http://www.FrontRangeFrenzy.com.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Randall_Holman

Read More..

Horse Stall Mats - Different Types, Advantages and Disadvantages

Horse stall mats are becoming increasingly popular, due to the advantages they provide over other stall floor surfaces:

• Yielding. The traditional concrete floor is very hard. Unless you provide a thick layer of bedding, this hardness can stress joints, possibly injure feet, and cause sore points where the horse lays down to rest or sleep. Mats provide a softer and more yielding surface which is more comfortable for horses and less likely to result in impact stress injuries.

• Warmth. The materials used to make horse stall mats are naturally insulating. This is both more comfortable and healthier for horses, especially in winter.

• Traction. Concrete and wooden floors can be slippery when wet; mats provide better traction and reduce this risk to horses.

• Smooth. Many mats have a smooth surface, which is much easier to clean than concrete or wood surfaces.

• Sterilization. Stall mats can be easily sterilized with a disinfectant, which is difficult with absorbent surfaces such as wood or earth. Especially in the case of a horse contraction a contagious disease, the ability to sterilize the stall floor is important.

• Drainage. Unlike concrete, mats allow urine to drain off. Usually this happens at the joints between mats, although a few types of mats allow the urine to drain through the mat itself.

• Bedding. Many owners find that less bedding is required with stall mats, partly because the mats perform the function of bedding (insulation, soft and comfortable surface, shock absorption, traction) and partly because the ability to drain off urine means that less bedding is soiled. This saves not only on bedding costs, but also in terms of the time and money associated with stall cleaning.

A mat floor can be laid on top of any hard, non-moving surface such as concrete, asphalt and wooden floors. As such, mats are more a floor covering, rather than a stand-alone floor. Some mats (the thicker and stronger ones) can also be laid on compacted stone, provided that that stones do not exceed a certain size (large stones can cause bumps or even tears in the mats). Soft surfaces, such as earth or sand, are unsuitable as they can move under the mats, resulting in depressions in the mats. Eventually, this can lead to separations between the mats or even tearing of the mats.

Stall mats vary in types, quality and performance characteristics. Consequently, selecting a stall mat for individual requirements requires consideration of a number of factors. The important differences between various stall mats are in terms of:

• Material. The most commonly used material is rubber, although there are different types and qualities of rubber used (largely dependent on manufacturer). There are also non-rubber mats, made out of high-tech materials such as EVA. High quality rubber tends to be more expensive, but is more durable. High-tech materials such as EVA tend to have somewhat different performance characteristics (e.g. more shock absorbent) and tend to be lighter for a given size.

• Size. Mats usually vary in size from about 30cm square (a square foot) to about 2 square meters (3 square yards). However, we have seen mats up to 12 feet by 12 feet (almost 4 meters by 4 meters), designed to cover an entire stall with a single piece (which weighs 600 pounds or almost 300kg). Large mats are heavier (the bigger ones weight 100 Kg. or 200 pounds each) which make placement more difficult. However, their weight and size is an advantage in that it makes them less likely to move once put in place and also less likely for edges or corners to curl up. Smaller mats are easier to work with. In the event of a tear or other damage, it is cheaper to replace a small mat than a large one.

• Thickness. The thickness varies from about 1 centimeter to over 2 centimeters. Thicker mats have 4 advantages: tend to be more durable, are less likely for the edges to curl, less likely for the mats to move, thickness is usually an indication of quality. However, as thickness increases, so do both price and weight.

• Weight. The weight depends on the type of material (EVA is much lighter then rubber) and the thickness of the mat. Heavy mats are more likely to stay in place, whereas lighter mats are convenient if you are often travelling with your horse (e.g. between horse shows and competitions) and like to take a portable mat with you. One of the advantages of a mat made from EVA instead of rubber is that it weighs only about a quarter as much as rubber, so is more suitable if you need to move it often.

• Interlocking. Some mats interlock, while others have straight edges and rely simply on their weight to hold them in place. All else being the same (size, weight, thickness), the interlocking mats stay in place better and are far less likely for edges to lift. Some mats are designer to lock and unlock easily (for easy transport if you move locations with your horse often) while others are designed to lock firmly in place (making transport more difficult, but providing better performance in static installations).

• Quality. Like any product, quality varies. A long guarantee (5 to 10 years) is an indication of quality. Thicker mats are usually of better quality than thin ones. Given 2 rubber mats of the same size, if one is substantially heavier it is probably of better quality (the lighter one is probably not pure rubber, but instead rubber mixed with inferior and lighter materials). None of these is an absolute mark of quality, but usually they are good indications. It is also worth checking if the manufacturer has a reputation for producing quality products. Also ask if the rubber has be revulcanized (which is good) or if the rubber has been bound with urethane glue (lower quality).

• Permeable. The mats should not be permeable, which is to say that urine should not be able to enter the surface of the mat. If the materials or production methods are of low quality, the mats may be partly permeable, resulting in urine entering the mat and producing odours.

• Porous. Some mats are porous, allowing urine to grain through. However, the majority are not porous, although urine can drain through the joins where the mats meet. With smaller mats, there are more joins, so the urine tends to run through more. This can either be an advantage or a disadvantage (see discussion below).

• Flat, grooved or footed bottom. Many mats have flat bottoms. With flat bottoms, any urine that gets under the mats (for example, draining through at the joints between mats) can be trapped there. If you have a permeable surface under the mats (e.g. compacted stone) this may not be an issue, but if you have a non-permeable surface (e.g. concrete) under the mats, you do not want to have trapped urine releasing ammonia and odours. With groves or feet, such urine may be able to drain off (whether this happens in practice will depend on factors such as the slope of the underlying surface and whether there are dips in the underlying surface).

• Portable. Some mats are designer to be portable, others are not. Factors to evaluate when considering portability include: weight, size, ability to roll up. If they are interlocking, check that they can be locked and unlocked easily and without special tools.

• Reversible. Some stall mats have a top side and a bottom side, while others can be reversed (flipped over). The advantage of the latter is that when one side shows wear, you can flip them over to extent the lifespan.

• Flat or textured top. Some mats have a flat and smooth top, while others have a textured top. Smooth tops are easier to clean (the groves or bumps on textured mats tend to trap dirt), while textured tops provide horses with better traction. Some people buy mats with a grooved bottom and then flip them over so that the grooved side is up; this is particularly done for high-traffic areas such as corridors or washing areas (where the water and soap would otherwise produce a slippery surface).

• Cut to fit. Stall mats come in a great variety of sizes. However, to get a close fit, you may need to cut the mats. In this case, before buying the mats, check that they are designed to allow this.

• Price. Prices vary, but as a rough indication look at 20-40 euros per square meter.

For photos of different types (interlocking, textured), see horse floor mats.

Drainage

If the urine drains through the mats rather than resting on top of them, the amount of bedding which is soiled is greatly reduced. This reduces the amount of time required to clean the stall, reduces the amount of replacement bedding required, and reduces the amount of storage space required for soiled bedding.

Although all of these are important benefits, one must consider what happens to the urine after it has drained through the mats. If the surface underneath has good drainage (e.g. thick layer of crushed stone), then the urine can drain off. However, if the surface underneath is impermeable (e.g. concrete), then the urine simply builds up under the mats, where it can release ammonia into the air (which is unhealthy for horses stabled there, in particular for their lungs) and produce unpleasant smells. Although one could from time to time lift up the mats and clean underneath them, the fact remains the cleaning urine under the mats is more difficult than cleaning urine on top of them.

Consequently, depending on the underlying floor surface you may prefer that urine drains through, or you may prefer that it does not. Depending on your preference, you should chose mats accordingly: small mats drain more than larges ones (joins are closer together and there are more of them), straight edge mats drain more than interlocking, porous mats drain more than non-porous.

If you decide to use mats that easily allow urine to drain through, you should consider the following:

• Choose a mat with grooved or footed bottoms, so that the urine can flow off rather than being trapped.

• Try to have a floor with good drainage. If this is not possible, allow the urine to run off by using a floor which is flat (no dips where urine can pool), smooth (so that liquids run easily) and with a slant so that liquids run off.

• Consider choosing mats whose design and weight allow them to be easily lifted out, permitting periodical washing down of the floor underneath.

Cleaning

A stall with rubber mats is cleaned out in much the same way (hay fork and/or shovel) as any other stall. Many people also periodically use a water hose to wash them down periodically. If the mats have feet or groves underneath, this can also help to flush out urine that has drained through between the joints (see above discussion about drainage).

One can also use a pressure jet. While this is very effective, be careful not to hold the pressure jet immediately against the mat surface as this may damage the mat (your pressure jet manual should state the minimum distance to hold the pressure jet away from surfaces being cleaned).

If your mat must be absolutely clean, other cleaning tools that may be useful are a scrub brush, soap and disinfectant. Before using any chemical product on your mat, just the instructions provided with your mat to make sure that the chemical will not harm it.

By Doug M Stewart

Appaloosa Stallion provides stud stallion services and advertises horses for sale. It also provides general information about horse care.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Doug_M_Stewart

Read More..

3 Simple Steps to Improve Your Relationship With Your Horse

Would you like to have a better relationship with your horse? Because horse people "love" their horses, they want to feel like their horses love them back. If you want unconditional love from an animal, get a dog. Humans and dogs have a more similar social organization than horses. Horses don't want your love. They want safety and security. They need to be able to trust and respect their herd mates, and particularly the herd leader - the alpha - to provide safety for the entire herd. Here are 3 simple steps you can take to gain your horse's respect, build the foundation for trust and become your horse's herd leader.
1. Awareness - Develop constant awareness of yourself, your horse and your environment. In the wild, horses' survival depends upon their level of awareness. As prey animals, they need to be aware predators before they are too close. The top horse in the herd is the most aware horse. Not the biggest or the strongest. The most aware of potential danger so that she can tell the rest of the herd to move. The herd communicates through body language. When the alpha horse says there is danger and it's time to move, there is no dispute or discussion.

2. Boundaries - Set appropriate boundaries that tell your horse where not to go. Horses do not pull each other around, they push each other. The horse that pushes another horse into a boundary is the better horse. A horse pushed into a boundary cannot run away. Not a good place to be for a prey animal. Use "contact" to create boundaries that tell your horse where not to go. Whether working with your horse in a halter or bridle, leading, lunging or riding, contact through the rope or reins creates boundaries. Respect your horse's personal space (the head and neck) and ask that she respect yours. The alpha horse does not get bitten or kicked, pushed or blocked by any other horse in the herd. The alpha horse can go anywhere, take the best food, drinks first and all without challenge or question. If your horse nips you, threatens to lift her foot to kick or strike, pushes you with her head or shoulder, leans into you or pins her ears when you go into her stall, she is not seeing you as her trusted leader.

3. Consistency - Horse's feel secure when the rules stay the same and they know what to expect. Whether you on the ground or in the saddle, apply the same rules every time you are with your horse. Horses are reading us as soon as they can see us not just when we are working with them. They don't know that we don't know their language. If we don't make sense to them they will tune us out, push us around or be terribly insecure and flighty around us.

Riding starts with ground work. Your relationship with your horse starts the moment your horse can see you. They don't miss a thing. In the wild, their survival depends on their level of awareness of their herd mates, their ability to communicate through body language and their awareness of their environment. If you want to develop a better relationship with your horse, start applying these 3 simple steps - Awareness, Boundaries and Contact - and you will create a trusting and respectful relationship. Your horse will love you for it.

By Anne Gage

Anne Gage is a Double Certified riding coach & horse trainer. She teaches adult riders to be confidently work with their horses, improve their riding skills and bring the joy back into their riding experience. Her training and coaching methods are based on building mutual trust & respect between horse and human. Anne coaches and trains clients out of High Point Farm near Orangeville, Ontario, Canada and also travels to other locations giving one & two day clinics. For more information, visit her website http://www.annegage.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Anne_Gage

Read More..

Cold Weather Horse Care Tips

You may be surprised at how well horses can adapt to colder weather. In the wild, horses can withstand temperatures at well below zero. However, there are a number of things that you can do to maximize your horse's health and condition during the colder months. Here are a few tips that will help to keep your equine friend happy and healthy during winter months.

One important thing to remember is that although horses do well in colder temperatures, they can be affected by cold winds which not only make them extremely uncomfortable but also have a tendency to spook the horse. You can keep your horse happier by providing some type of wind break such as a run-in shed in the pasture. If your horse does not have access to a run-in shed, a line of trees may be adequate to block some of the wind, but it is advisable that they at least have some sort of shelter from potential wind, snow, and freezing rain.

In addition to a nice shelter for your horse, you should increase your horse's hay intake during the winter months. Hay digestion creates increased heat production which helps your horse stay warmer in the winter months. Be sure that you are not increasing the grain intake, as increased grain intake will not provided the desired results of helping your horse to stay warmer. In fact, excess grain has been linked to foundering and potentially colic.

If your hay is not of the best quality, you should take your hay to be tested so that the hay is providing all of the nutritional benefits to your horse. Beet Pulp has been used by many horsemen as an additional feed source to supplement hay. The qualities of beet pulp allow it to be an easily digested feed with similar nutritional benefits as hay. Be sure that your horse is receiving enough feed through high quality forages to help him or her sustain a healthy body weight throughout the winter.

In addition to providing extra hay, you should also always provide fresh water for your horse. Although the weather is colder, horses still need enough water intake to keep their digestive tracts in line. Water prevents dehydration and is a vital part of keeping your horse healthy. Not only should you provide fresh water, but check the water regularly for ice. You may need to either install an electric heater in the water trough or keep a rubber mallet nearby to break ice which accumulates in buckets.

Another tip to keep in mind is to cool down your horse after exercise. Although this is equally important in the summer time, horses can easily chill after a rigorous work out if they are not provided with a cooler blanket to keep their body temperatures from losing heat too quickly and to keep them from becoming chilled while wet with sweat. Remember to walk your horse after a work-out so that they can cool down slowly.

Winter months can be refreshing and exhilarating for horses as long as they are kept healthy and happy!

By Angela Cooney

For expert information on horses, tack at affordable prices, and special tips for new horse owners, be sure to visit our web page at http://www.smarthorseowner.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Angela_Cooney

Read More..

Feeding Horses - 5 Easy Ways to Drastically Reduce Your Horse Feed Costs

Most people think horses are big animals, so they cost a lot to feed, but they're wrong. Feeding horses can cost a large amount of money depending on what you feed them, but if you do things right, you can slash the cost of feeding your horse to not much more than a couple of Starbucks coffees each week, if not less.

1. Feed More Hay (Forage) & Less Grain - Grain feed is far more expensive to purchase than hay and most horses really don't need the extra grain. Good quality hay should be all that pleasure horses need to keep in top condition.

2. Purchase Hay Direct From the Farm - Cut out the middle man (the grain/fodder store) and go straight to the farmer for your hay. You'll find that the majority of farmers are quite happy to sell hay to you, and often in quite small quantities (5 or 10 bales at a time) if you don't have much storage. Keep an eye out in the classified ads section of your local paper or agriculture/farming newspaper and you'll see plenty of ads for hay.

3. Keep Your Horse's Food off the Ground - Feeding a horse directly on the ground increases wastage through trampling (especially in wet, muddy conditions) and toileting! They're not going to eat feed that's muddy, or been urinated or defecated on. Try to place your horse's feed in a hay net, an old bath tub, washing machine bowl, or a specially made feed container.

4. Worm Your Horse Regularly - If your horse has a belly full of worms, then each time you feed them you're also feeding the worms. If you don't want your horse to have to share his food with the worms, then you need to make sure they're wormed every 6 to 8 weeks.

5. Rug Your Horse in Cold Winter Months - You don't need to go and purchase half a dozen rugs from the saddler store. Just one warm, waterproof rug is all your horse needs to help keep them that bit warmer in winter. The warmer your horse is, the less food they'll need. A cold horse will need to burn more energy (the by product of their feed) to try and keep warm, so by rugging them you're reducing the amount of energy, & therefore food, that they need.

Feeding horses a good, well-balanced diet on a small budget is not hard to do. By following the tips above and being smart about what horse feed you purchase - not buying the latest supplement or grain feed just because the manufacturers tell you your horse needs it - you can keep your horse in A1 condition for a mere fraction of what many people spend.

By Rachel Incoll

Rachel Incoll is the author of EquestrianHub.com - the number one place for everything equine online. Visit her site to discover more great ideas on how to cut your horse feed costs, plus all the latest equestrian news, event results, horse riding tips & fun competitions.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rachel_Incoll

Read More..

Top Ten Horse Secrets

"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then is not an act, but a habit." - Aristotle

1. Gain the horse's trust. If your horse does not trust you, he won't really listen to you.

2. Gain the horse's respect. Respect is equally important as trust. If your horse has no respect for you then he won't pay attention to you either.

3. Horses learn on release of pressure. A horse's mind is programmed to always look for an escape. Release of pressure satisfies the horse's deepest psychological need. The need to escape. Always begin with being as soft as possible until they show the slightest try.

4. Violence and rough handling begins when knowledge ends. Good communication and patience go a lot father than being rough. Violence removes any trust or respect you earned from your horse.

5. Teach or improve something in each time you and your horse interact. Always seek refinement in yourself and your horse. A stale horse and rider makes a stale ride.

6. Habit and routine are powerful training tools. They also make your horse more emotionally comfortable.Horses love to be able to predict what is going to happen. It makes them feel safe. Routine and habit are also powerful ways to teach your horse. I always do the same thing and same way every time. I catch my horse the same way. I brush her the same way. I pick her feet the same way. She has to go into a trailer every time before I ride. I do the warm up, skill improvement, conditioning, new skills and cool down the same way each time.

7. Constant consistency. Your horse will learn faster if you are consistent. You must be the same rider each time you ride. You can't be a dominator one day, and then a push over the next day. If you want your horse to be consistently good, you have to be too.

8. A positive relationship with your horse encourages the horse's motivation. Have you ever worked for somebody you just hated? Don't be that person to your horse. You need to figure out how to make your horse want to please you.

9. Constantly seek new and better horsemanship skills and knowledge. No body knows it all. Everyone has something to teach. Remember your horse may just be your best teacher. Humans don't have all the answers either.

10. Finish your interaction with your horse on a good note. This means two things. Completing your ride is huge release of pressure. That means that the horse will remember vividly what he did to get you off his back. If it was something negative then you have in essence rewarded that negative thing. Stack success in your favor, make it something you have the skill to be successful with. Don't try a triple flying backward lead change with a flip unless you can teach that well. Also do something that the horse thinks, "Boy oh boy I love my owner, I can't wait to see him tomorrow." Remember that your horse just lugged you around for the past couple hours. You want him to remember the good times.

"Good, better, best, never let it rest till your good is better and your better is best." - St. Jerome

By Matthew Brendal

Matthew M. Brendal is a professional farrier, equine consultant and horse trainer in the state of Oklahoma since 1999. He has never met a horse he didn't like. Each day is just another opportunity for him to learn from and work with horses. His major equine education milestones include: Equine Science Certificate from the University of Guelph; Master Farrier Diploma-Oklahoma Farrier College; Parelli Natural Horsemanship Level 1 Official Graduate: Certified Equiflex Equine Massage Therapist; Certificate of Achievement-Emergency Management Institute, Animals in Disaster.
http://www.fundamental-horsemanship.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Brendal

Read More..

Horse Control and the Bit

On the first day of the Royal Melbourne Summer Horse Show last year a group of friends and I sat ringside watching some of the classes. Rider after rider, or handler after handler, yanked, jerked and wrenched at their horse's mouths with the bit making us endlessly cringe.

All of us, in the previous week, had read an article that had forever changed our view of the bit and its use with horses.

One of us is an elite theatrical show horse trainer; another is a breeder, two more are pony club instructors, one is a saddlery store owner. All of us, at one time or another, have been converted to so called "natural" horsemanship. That is to say, we have sought a different way, a non-aggressive way, of achieving a well mannered and calm horse.

We are sitting in the shade, watching an in-hand class of supremely turned out hacks. Two handlers have curbs on their horses and they repeatedly yank on their charges' mouths.

The stories flow thick and fast between us.

The theatrical show horse trainer recounts how her equine dentist discussed anatomy with her once, explaining that most people - because they want to do the right thing - will buy a thicker, plainer bit, thinking the thinner kind sharper and more cruel. And this is fine.

For some horses.

But you get other horses, horses with smaller mouths, less room between top and bottom jaw, for whom a thick bit like that can be incredibly uncomfortable. Because it just doesn't fit, it's too big. And then the horse resists and opens its mouth and fights the rider's control.

"So we go and tie its mouth closed!" my friend exclaims.

The saddlery store owner talks about a Pony Club parent who came in seeking a twisted wire W bit because their pony, after years of good behaviour, suddenly refused to go left. Another PC parent advised them to try this bit, the magical answer to all control.

"Thankfully," says the saddlery owner, "we didn't have one."

She goes on to say that in a round about way her husband, an equine vet, got to go out and see that pony later on the same day. It had a very severe abscess in its left near hoof.

Privately I have always thought if you have to add more and more equipment to your horse to make it do what you want then it's time to give the game up.

FEI rules require submission to the rider and the bit. But which bit? Does it have to be a curb or double bridle? Top trainers, Monty Roberts, Andrew McLean, Janice Usherwood, Parelli, and others, all have said that the double and curb bridles made mandatory by FEI rules are instruments of torture that should, that must, be outlawed.

I am about to show you why.

Some of you may be familiar with the Nevzarov's, a Russian couple who practice and teach Haute Ecole Dressage bitless and bridleless. Alexander Nevzarov created the both horrifying and ultimately beautiful and liberating film & book The Horse Crucified And Risen, a documentary about the horse's long association with man.

The Nevzarov's commissioned a scientific study with the Forensics & Medical Examination Office, St Petersburg, Russia, to document the effects of double and curb bits on the horse's mouth. Taking part in the experiment were Forensic scientists, Vets and journalists (who recorded the experiment on video). The results were published in Horses For Life Magazine (US).

For the purpose of the experiments a model horse head was created that included a tongue made from Ballistin, a substance that closely fits the structure and density of living tissue (though not the flexibility). The Ballistin tongue was used to record the "hit", or pressure, placed upon the mouth by the bit.

While the experiment itself could not measure pain it was able to measure the amount of pressure placed on the tongue, jaw and other oral structures in the horse's mouth.

To begin with it was discovered that an "ordinary rider" with "good" (light) hands exerts about 120-130kg of pressure per square centimetre. The pressure is felt directly by the Trigeminal Nerve, a branch of which (mandibular nerve) runs along the jawbone and - owing to the lack of muscle along the bar of the jaw - is reasonably unprotected and exposed. This means there is almost direct contact with this nerve by the bit.

An article by staff at the University Of Lincoln, UK, on headshaking reports that it is thought that the head shaking condition is thought to be caused by either pressure to this nerve or the nerve itself "misfiring", causing spasms of pain. "There are many sources for potential nerve pain in the horse's head but the vets think that branches of the trigeminal nerve which conducts sensation from the muzzle and face to the brain may be the main source, particularly the Infraorbital nerve which is a branch of the maxillary. For some reason, parts of this nerve may be damaged and 'fire' inappropriately causing painful sensations in a particular area, i.e. the nerves are telling the horse that it is being hurt in this area when in reality it is not."

Lidia Nevzarov writes that this particular nerve is super-sensitive. She says, "According to descriptive adjectives pain like that in the area of the nerve is called 'especially acute, burning, paralysing'."

And that's from a rider with good hands.

A sharp jerk, like those we witnessed at the Royal Show last week, can exert a pressure of 300kg per square centimetre.

Now you know why a horse's first reaction is to throw his head up and back when being jerked in the mouth like that.

This jerking in the mouth syndrome is not uncommon. In fact I would say that most of us witness it regularly, even daily, at riding schools, Agistment parks, shows, pony clubs. But it is so common we don't think about it.

The central lingual (lingualis) nerve of the tongue also feels this pressure - 100kg per square centimetre in ordinary ("not doing anything") contact. A jerk increases pressure to this area to about 250-300kg per square centimetre. As with the Trigeminal Nerve this pressure causes intense discomfort and pain. In the experiment the Ballistin tongue was crushed by such pressure; a real tongue, comprised of living tissue, reshapes itself, though the pressure and pain is still felt and injury still occurs.

Lidia Nevzarov presents photos of two jawbones - one from a bitted horse and one from a horse that has never known a bit. The jaw of the unbitted horse is smooth and clean while the jaw of the bitted horse shows clear wear right on the bar where the bit rests; grooves and chips. So, our hands' action on the horse's mouth is strong enough to groove and chip bone.

Another branch of the Trigeminal Nerve (which runs along the jaw) exists in the groove under the chin - exactly where the curb chain rests. Again this area has no muscle to protect it, just skin, blood vessels and bone exist. Anatomically it is an ideal place to apply crippling pressure.

The researchers found that the curb chain applies an average of 300kg of pressure per square centimetre to this sensitive area. In fact, they found that exerting pressure on this area was able to break off the lower part of the model horse's jaw.

A living horse's jaw, of course, can withstand far greater pressure but we are not talking about breaking a horse's jaw, but rather the amount of pain we subject horses to through the use of standard riding equipment.

Lidia Nevzarov goes on to say that the Hard Palate (palatum duram) also sustains damage and experiences two kinds of pressure - constant, caused by the bit resting in the mouth; and hits, caused by applied pressure to the reins in a jerking motion. The palate is composed of mucous membrane that varies in thickness between 2mm (the grooves of the palate) and 6mm (the ridges) and this mucous membrane is all that sits between the bit and the palate nerve, palatines major. Pressures of 180-200kg per square centimetre were recorded and Nevzarov talks about the hematomas (bruises) present under the mucous membrane of the hard palate (on a dissected horse used in the experiment) as being an indication of the force applied causing injury.

Dr Cook, FRCVS., PhD, who created the modern Bitless Bridle, points out that "A fundamental principle of correct saddle fit is that the saddle should never contact bone. This principle is forgotten when it comes to bits. A metal rod in the mouth makes direct contact with unprotected bone at the bars [and], not surprisingly, bits commonly cause painful bone spurs to develop on the bars."

The Nevzarov study successfully proved the amount of pressure that is applied directly to the horse's jaw and oral structures and the damage it can do.

As a "technology" - The practical application of science to commerce or industry - the bit was developed some 5000 years ago by bronze age horsemen. While the design has changed and evolved, the use of the bit has not.

As we continuously expand our knowledge and our ability for scientific research we perhaps also need to expand, or change, the way we think in line with the results we find and the knowledge we gather.

To say that we cannot ride without the bit, or control the horse without the bit, that the whole concept of dressage (for example) relies on the bit, is a belief firmly entrenched in mythology, "tradition" and a rigid unwillingness to explore new paths.

There are many examples of fine horsemanship - and horse men and women - who exhibit perfect control of their horses without the need for a bit. Stacey Westfall, rode a winning round in a high level reining competition, bareback and bridleless. Steve Jeffries, the Nevzarov's, Cavalia, Zingaro Monty Roberts, Quantum Savvy - all perform without the use of bits and bridles, so we know it can be done.

http://www.horseyard.com.au/components/com

In many ways I see it as a shame that riders and regulatory bodies seem incapable of exploring horse control and submission without the use of such aids.

What a contest it would be where riders competed at the highest level bridleless. This would test a rider's control of their horse, and the horse's willingness to submit, like no other method. Further, as horse riders and competitors I believe we should challenge the peak ruling bodies - FEI, EFA, AQHA and all others - to instigate non -point rounds of competition for riders to compete bitless and demonstrate that control of the horse, at the highest level, is achievable without the use of a piece of metal in their mouth.

Don't tell me it can't be done. The only thing stopping you is the way you think.

By Geraldine Chapman

Geraldine Chapman
Editor / http://www.horseyard.com.au

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Geraldine_Chapman

Read More..

Horse Riding and the Time vs Money Debate

As a fellow Equestrian I was always looking for ways to improve my financial status so I can afford that extra bit of "gear" I need, or those extra lessons to "keep me on track". I have had jobs which paid me a reasonable wage which allowed me to keep my horse in the style to which it is accustomed, but didn't give me the time to actually go and ride it twice a week, let alone spend the hours required to train it to any sort of decent level.

Then again I have switched to part time or casual work so I had more time to ride....and.... you guessed it, I then couldn't afford the lessons or the "right" gear let alone the entry fee to get to the competitions I wanted to attend. I was only just being able to afford the adjustment and feed bill because god forbid the valued and much pampered equine (future star prospect) should actually lack for anything!

As I write this I wonder how many other future Dressage, Showjumping or Eventing stars are out there who have had the same experiences. I'm betting there are a few right? We live for our horses, our sport, those precious times when we win a medal or a ribbon and if we are Oh-so-lucky a few dollars of prize money!

Recently I decided to "take the stallion by the whatsits" and do something to change the revolving door of enough time, no money, or enough money, no time. Find out more about how I changed my destiny and improved my riding as well as my income with the same great business. Visit my website for more information.

By Lisa Smart

http://www.expectthebest4u.com

Your friend in the equine world

Lisa Smart from Langhorne Creek SA

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lisa_Smart

Read More..

Why Have A Horse?

I have met so many people during my life that had horses. The first type of people I met was when I was a young girl and my father owned race horses. I can't really remember any of them actually loving the horse. The actual animal. They loved what the horse could do for them regarding making them money, if they won the race that is. If the horse was a winner it was treated ok. It wasn't given much human attention other than training. Remember this is the part I saw, I am sure there are some owners and trainers in the 'bigger' winners that had more of hands on and I read of some owners that said they truly loved their race horses, the ones that owned the big winners.

The point being is the horse is not just an animal to be used and then to get rid of. I cannot believe how many people I have met through the years that want a 'quarter' horse. I am not talking about the breed quarter horse, I am talking about the wooden horse you put a quarter in, ride for a few minutes and it doesn't buck, bite, rear, spook, or do anything humans would call 'bad'. How could it, it is made out of wood or plastic or whatever this mechanical horse is made of. It isn't a living, breathing, emotional feeling animal. However, that is what some of these so called 'horse people' need to buy because they complain about their horse doing what a horse does, or they complain just about all horses.

A horse is a horse of course, of course!! Even these so called trainers who have been around horses, trained horses, yada, yada, yada, since they have been 'born'!! And still don't know anything about the horse!! I have been to so many clinics, I have almost gone broke buying training videos to see what else someone has come up with and my own horse almost lost her life because of a 'trainer' that has 'grown up and been around horses and showed and trained all her life'.

Well be careful of these kind of trainers. When you can get a horse to do what you want without any bit, saddle, and of course without all those other gadgets (martingale, tie downs etc.) then your talking 'natural horsemanship'

go to a trainer who uses love and patience not bits and binders and that hurry up and get that first ride today attitude!

We do live in a fast food society and fast everything society, and it is going into the way we train our animals and children for that matter and with that kind of training you will only get a short-term result and you will wonder what happened thinking "well I trained him, what happened?"

I won't even get into the people that won't even train Arabian horses because they say they don't think, they are just crazy. How sad are those people! Well if you just want something to get on and ride it into the ground, please go have a robot made into a horse!

Now, if you want a journey that will lead to a joyful and meaningful and fulfilling relationship then get a horse as there is nothing like it.

This saying is true but I changed it a bit: the outside of a horse is good for the inside of a caring person.

By Cindee Grimes

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Cindee_Grimes

Read More..

How to Improve Your Dressage Score From the Comfort of Your Couch

That's right, don't get off the couch folks, you can actually improve your riding from right where you sit! I know, I have done it. Now you still will have to do a bit of riding, don't get me wrong, there are no short cuts to the perfect score. You can however improve your outcome using some simple principles which I will outline below.

Firstly, have you heard of visualization? Some of you will have, some not so I will explain a little: visualization ties your imagination to reality, it is a process of using your imagination to create a picture or film inside your head of yourself being somewhere or doing something you want to do. It has been used by many successful athletes and you can use it too.
Our example in this case is the dressage test. Now obviously you need to learn the test and put the work into the horse, but visualization can really create that extra edge to get those few extra marks on the day.

So, sit back, relax, and try this...
Take a deep breath, relax and concentrate inward. (It helps if you are in a nice quiet place so if the family is running amok or the TV is blaring, whatever, find somewhere you can be quiet and alone.)
Once you feel your mind turning from without to within, spend several minutes running a vivid film in your head of you riding the perfect dressage test. Feel the visualization as if it is happening at that moment. How would you feel riding that test, what would it look like as you are riding toward the next marker in a perfect extended trot, shoulder in, etc. The kick here is, the more you can feel, see and hear things happening as they should in your visualization, the better it will work.
This may be hard for you at first, especially if you are not used to it and it is easy to be distracted. Keep at it and keep practicing, don't finish the visualization until you are ready. You should try this daily for at least the week leading up to the big day. There are obviously more points to visualization and many other ways to improve your riding through personal development and various techniques which will help in your riding.

By Lisa Smart

I teach these and more in my business. If you would like to know more about visualization and how to make it work for you and your riding, visit my website at http://www.expectthebest4u.com and leave your details, I will be happy to send you more information.

Your friend in the equine world
Lisa Smart

Lisa Smart, from Langhorne Creek SA

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lisa_Smart

Read More..

Homemade Horse Treats - What You Need to Make Treats Your Horse Will Love

Homemade horse treats are actually quite simple and easy to do. Do you have a horse you love to spoil on a regular basis? If so you may want to take that love into the kitchen and whip up some treats straight from the heart.

Horse treats made at home usually involve natural ingredients such as oatmeal, sugar, carrots or apples to name a few. However, you must also keep in mind there are some ingredients that are toxic to horses.

For example, tomatoes or chestnuts are toxic to horses and should not be used as ingredients. You may also want to take into consideration any dietary concerns for your horse. If you are monitoring weight control you may want to make something lighter in terms of sugar or other high calorie ingredients.

What Types Of Treats Can You Make?

Most homemade horse treats are made in the form of horse cookies. There are a couple other types of treats you can make your horse such as muffins, biscuit treats and even cakes.

Horse cookies are an easy choice to make. They usually involve some combination of oatmeal, carrots, apples, sugar, and molasses. If you need to make a more healthy version you can choose recipes with lower amounts of sweet ingredients.

Muffins and biscuits are a couple other choices of homemade treats. Biscuits are similar to cookies, but what you include as ingredients can offer a different texture to the finished product.

There are also recipes out there for making cakes. When making say a birthday cake for your horse, you may be using a combination of oats or feed, molasses or honey, carrots, and apples. There are versions of no-bake and baked recipes available.

When making healthy homemade horse treats you can substitute in ingredients such as unsweetened applesauce, oat bran cereal or oatmeal. Look for recipes with lower calories ingredients.

What Equipment Will You Need To Make Treats?

Equipment needs for making horse treats are pretty basic. Depending on the recipe, you should only need basic baking equipment. Likely a mixing bowl or two, measuring cup, and spatula.

Other equipment needs include baking sheets, muffin pans, or other baking pans. Plenty of counter space in the kitchen may be helpful when making homemade horse treats.

Any electrical appliances will depend on the recipe. You may need a hand mixer or a blender, but many recipes will work just fine with good, old-fashioned elbow grease.

Where Can I Find Great Recipes?

Great recipes for homemade horse treats can be found both online and offline. There are many websites that offer great recipes for baking available on the internet.

You can tailor your internet search to specific types of treat or certain ingredients. There are also many books available in the local book store filled with horse treat recipes.

Below we have provided an example of a simple horse treat recipe:

Horse Cookies:
1c grated carrots
1 grated apple
2 Tbs corn oil
1/4c molasses
1 tsp salt
1c rolled oats
1c flour

Mix carrots, apple, corn oil and molasses in large mixing bowl. Fold in salt, oats and flour until well mixed. Spread dough as one piece on cookie sheet. Can use cookie cutters in dough for shapes before baking or pre-cut. Bake at 350 degrees for 15 minutes or until golden brown.

By Lynn Wenger

About The Author:

Lynn Wenger invites you to visit http://www.stock-horse-show-source.com/horse-nutrition.html for more information on complete and balanced nutrition for your horse.

Lynn has been active in riding and showing horses since 2000. She is a lifelong equine addict with no hopes of recovery and admits since buying her first horse as a young adult that she is an expert on not being an expert when it comes to owning and showing horses. She is also the creator and founder of Stock Horse Show Source http://www.stock-horse-show-source.com, developed to educate novice equine enthusiasts on the basics of horse keeping and showing.

So lope on over, park your horse, and sign up for "The All-Arounder" newsletter, the official FREE publication from Stock Horse Show Source and you'll never miss a hoofbeat!

(c) Copyright stock-horse-show-source.com, all rights reserved

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Lynn_Wenger

Read More..

Identification, Prevention and Control of External Parasites on Horses

EXTERNAL PARASITES
External parasite infestation can cause irritation and unthriftiness in your horse. Some external parasites can help proliferate lifecycles of internal parasites. External parasites may also carry infectious diseases. External parasites however may be easier to detect visually, which helps to determine program effectiveness and type of parasitic infestation. ALWAYS consult your veterinarian if you have any concerns. He or she is a very good subject matter expert.

CHEMICAL SAFETY
Fly repellents are very dangerous chemicals and care should be taken to wash off any residue remaining from any overspray or contact on your hands/other body parts. with soap and water. Wash any clothes or gloves that come in contact with these agents. All hazardous chemicals should be stored as per the label in secure storage and be properly disposed when outdated. Mixing chemicals such as DMSO can cause serious health problems.

COMMON PARASITES
Bots (Stomach bots & Gasterophilus)
Physical Description
Mature botflies have an appearance similar to a honeybee. The eggs are light brown specks the size of pin heads in small clusters.

Lifecycle
The female botfly lays her eggs directly to a hair on the horse in areas that will be able to be in contact with the horse's mouth. The areas most commonly targeted are the legs, lips and other spots that allow direct contact with the mouth and nostril during self grooming or grooming another horse. Licking the attached botfly eggs will cause them to hatch and produce the larvae. The hatched larvae will then migrate to the tongue or gums of the horse and burrow in or attach itself for the 3 weeks incubation period. Following the incubation period they free themselves and pass to the lining of the stomach for a duration of approximately 9 months. After the 9-month period the larvae are transported out of the stomach via manure to become an adult botfly. The activity of an adult botfly will last from late spring until the first hard frost.

Problems Caused by Bots
The botfly larvae may cause only minimal damage to the horse, the biggest threat would be intestinal obstruction due to infestation. The larvae may also reduce the efficiency of the stomach to digest effectively.

Signs of Infestation of Bots
If any botfly eggs are observed to attached to your horse you should consider that your horse has ingested some of them. If eggs are observed remove with them as soon as possible with a Bot knife to reduce ingestion.

Black Fly
Physical Description
Small grayish-black fly.

Breeding Habitat
Require moving water such as streams and pond overflows.

Favorite Biting Area on a Horse
Belly lines, inside the back legs and in the ears.
Diseases Commonly Carried or Problems Caused
General irritation to horse.

Deer Fly
Physical Description
Large flies capable of inflicting a painful bite.

Breeding Habitat
Plants around water's edge or salt marshes.

Favorite Biting Area on a Horse
Entire body.

Diseases Commonly Carried or Problems Caused
Equine Infectious Anemia and very painful bites.

Face Fly
Physical Description
Small grayish-black fly.

Breeding Habitat
Fresh cattle manure.

Favorite Biting Area on a Horse
Generally on horse's face.

Diseases Commonly Carried or Problems Caused
Cause some eye problems but mostly a nuisance to the horse.

Horn Fly
Physical Description
A very small fly that congregates in large swarms.

Breeding Habitat
Fresh cattle manure.

Favorite Biting Area on a Horse
Horse's neck, shoulders and abdomen. They also target skin unprotected by hair loss.

Diseases Commonly Carried or Problems Caused
Contribute to severe dermatitis leading to skin ulcers.

Horse Fly
Physical Description
Very large fly capable of inflicting a painful and deep bite.

Breeding Habitat
Water puddles, lake or pond water's edge, salt marshes, or plant debris.

Favorite Biting Area on a Horse
Entire body.

Diseases Commonly Carried or Problem Caused
Equine Infectious Anemia and Very painful bite.

House Fly
Physical Description
The common everyday housefly.

Breeding Habitat
Manure or use a wide range of organic materials.

Favorite Biting Area on a Horse
Tear ducts and around the horse's eye.

Diseases Commonly Carried or Problems Caused
Transmit stomach worms and prolific transmitter of vertebrate pathogens. General nuisance to horses.

Lice
Physical Description
About 1/8 inch in length. May vary in color from white to dirty gray.

Breeding Habitat
Remote areas of horse.

Favorite Biting Area on a Horse
Remote areas, dry patches of skin, head, neck, mane or tail.

Diseases Commonly Carried or Problems Caused
Some weight loss, stunted growth or anemia. Very irritating bite that may lead to rubbing the hair off the skin.

Mosquitoes
Physical Description
Small winged insect with prominent bloodsucking probe extending from head.

Breeding Habitat
Standing water, old tires, barrels and other objects capable of holding water and blocking wind.

Favorite Biting Area on a Horse
Entire body.

Diseases Commonly Carried or Problems Caused
Prolific transmitters of disease and associated with Equine Encephalomyetis, Equine Infectious Anemia and West Nile Virus.

Stable Fly
Physical Description
Very similar in appearance to the housefly, but the stable fly has large mouth.

Breeding Habitat
Hay contaminated with urine and manure.

Favorite Biting Area on a Horse
Legs and abdomens.

Diseases Commonly Carried or Problems Caused
Helps contribute to the transmission of Equine Infectious Anemia and summer sores.

Ticks
Physical Description
Small brownish watermelon seed shaped insect and peanut sized cream colored when full of host's blood.

Breeding Habitat
Eggs laid on ground then larvae ticks migrate to trees or shrubs.

Favorite Biting Area on a Horse
Inside ears or remote spots.

Diseases Commonly Carried or Problems Caused
Sleeping Sickness, Lyme disease, Piroplasmosis and EIA.

EXTERNAL PARASITE CONTROL PROGRAM
Just like dewormer chemicals, there are many fly repellent systems available for a wide range of external parasites. Before relying solely on chemical repellents you may consider a first step of prevention and reduction. As you probably noted most external parasites required water or fresh manure as a breeding ground. If the breeding ground is limited so will the parasites.

Before purchasing an insecticide or repellent you may want to read label to ensure this product is safe and will be an effective part of your program. You may also want to use one product at a time to reduce chances of the parasites becoming resistant to both products during the same period. Switch to another insecticide before the parasites become resistant.

Below are listed some tasks that will help reduce the parasite population:
- Remove and properly dispose of materials that may be breeding grounds at least every seven days. Preferably you should remove any suspected breeding material daily.
- Design or arraign stables, paddocks and pasture so that they allow easy waste removal.
- Ensure good drainage for rainwater and at wash racks.
- Turn off barn lights at night or use fluorescent lights.
- Clean water buckets regularly and use repellents.

Monitor which parasites are most prolific and then establish a sound plan to reduce their numbers. Contact your veterinarian, County Extension Agent or other experts in your area for specific advice. When spreading manure attempt to place as thin a layer as possible in order to speed up drying out the manure. Add horse manure to a compost pile to help segregate manure from horse living area. Ensure you follow all directions for disposal of any insecticide, these chemicals can be very lethal and can easily make their way into ponds, lakes, streams and ground water. The insecticides must also be kept in the original container.

Commonly biting flies are very active during hours of bright daylight. Set up your repellent or stabling program around that period. Common offense techniques and methods that can be very successful yet very environmentally friendly are Fly Predators. The Fly Predators are small sterile non-stringing forms of wasps that eat fly larvae. There are also systems that use propane gas to expel CO2 gas to attract mosquitoes and similar insects then suck them into a trap. Both systems work exceptionally well.

Old fashioned, tried and true methods can include fly tapes, baited bottle traps or poison baits Machines such as Mosquito Magnets lure and destroy mosquitoes as well as other similar insect pests. There are also powders and liquids that can be applied to the ground and plants which will kill insects. As with any chemicals read and follow the label so as you don't harm any animals or children.

Protective clothing such as fly masks or full body fly sheets. It has been reported that herbal remedies such as vinegar or garlic consumed orally will help the horse become less attractive thus bitten less. External parasites will never be 100% controllable, but having an effective program with monitoring will aid in your horse having a life of quality.

SKIN PARASITES
Horses may have several skin problems or skin parasites. Proper diagnosis by your veterinarian is important to quickly rid your horse of any skin problems.

Mange
Physical Description
Extremely small, must use magnifying glass to see.

Breeding Habitat
Under host's skin.

Favorite Biting Area on a Horse
Upper layers of skin.

Diseases Commonly Carried or Problems Caused
Irritations of skin which may lead to severe dermatitis or secondary infections. Proper nutrition will help prevent infestation.

Rain Rot (Dermatophilosis)
Physical Description
A microscopic rod-shaped bacteria that causes raw open sores under matted crusty hair.

Breeding Habitat
Horse's skin during periods of wet/moist and warm weather. The bacteria live in the soil and proliferate during long periods of wetness.

Favorite Biting Area on a Horse
A location on a horse that stays moist and warm allows these microscopic bugs to flourish.

Diseases Commonly Carried or Problems Caused
Irritations of skin which may lead to severe dermatitis or secondary infections. Cleaning infected areas with a medicated shampoo, betadine or cooper salt-based solutions. In rare severe cases veterinary care may be required. Also called rain scald and dew poisoning when referring to the infection on lower limbs.

Ringworm (Dermatophytosis)
Physical Description
Microscopic fungus that causes small circular patches of hair loss with flaky scabs.

Breeding Habitat
Conditions most likely to cause a risk to ringworm are dark and damp conditions during fall and winter. Young horses (yearling to three years old), senior horse and sickly horses are more prone to infection. This fungus is very infectious and will spread rapidly to other horses, other animals and humans. If ringworm is suspected clean all tack, brushes, blankets or other items used on the infected horse(s) until it successfully treated.

Favorite Biting Area on a Horse
The ringworm fungus typically infects the heart girth area, face and legs.

Diseases Commonly Carried or Problems Caused
It is very important to get and keep ringworm under control. Treatments with a ringworm medicine should be aggressive and consistent and maintained until all signs are completely gone. Irritations of skin which may lead to severe dermatitis or secondary infections.

SKIN PARASITES CONTROL PROGRAM
It is important not to spread any contagious skin disease from one part of your horse to another part or from one horse to another horse. Washing your grooming tools in medicated shampoo or other disinfectant after use should prevent spreading of infections. Usually medicated (iodine based) shampoos will fix minor skin problems. If veterinarian assistance is required, follow the instructions thoroughly to ensure complete infestation elimination.

By Matthew Brendal

Matthew M. Brendal is a professional farrier, equine consultant and horse trainer in the state of Oklahoma since 1999. He has never met a horse he didn't like. Each day is just another opportunity for him to learn from and work with horses. His major equine education milestones include: Equine Science Certificate from the University of Guelph; Master Farrier Diploma-Oklahoma Farrier College; Parelli Natural Horsemanship Level 1 Official Graduate: Certified Equiflex Equine Massage Therapist; Certificate of Achievement-Emergency Management Institute, Animals in Disaster.

http://www.fundamental-horsemanship.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Matthew_Brendal

Read More..

Feeding Horses - How Much Feed Should I Give My Horse?

Feeding horses correctly can be an art in itself, but by following a few simple rules it needn't actually be all that difficult.

Many people worry if they're giving they're horse enough feed, or too much feed, but there's one simple way to answer this question. If the horse is fat (has a body score condition of 8 or 9), then you really need to cut back on their feed to avoid the increased risk of colic and laminitis. If the horse is thin - the spine & ribs are prominent - with a body condition score of 3 or less, then you definitely need to increase their food intake.

So how much feed should your horse need to maintain a healthy weight?

Some horses seem to live off the smell of an oily rag, while others seem to need to eat everything you put in front of them...even if it's twice what other horses their size seem to consume. In spite of these differences as a rule of thumb, a horse that is spelling, or not doing much, needs to consume 1.5% to 2.0% of it's body weight in dry matter each day. All other horses will need to consume 2.0% to 3.5% of their body weight in dry matter each day.

What is dry matter?

Dry matter means the weight of the food without any water present. All horse feed will contain some water, even if the food has been artificially dried or appears dry like many hays do.

For example, an 1100lb (500kg) horse at rest would need to consume approximately 22lbs (10kg) of dry matter a day to maintain condition. But giving them 22lbs of hay, or a combination of 22lbs of hay and grain would not be enough as some of what you're feeding them contains water.

Fortunately it's not too difficult to calculate the dry matter content of many feeds. Most horse feeds have a dry matter content of 12% or less. As a rule of thumb, you can obtain an approximate dry matter weight of food by dividing it by 1.15.

For example, our 1100lb horse being fed 22lbs of hay each day is actually only getting approximately 19lbs of dry matter a day, well under the 22lbs it actually needs. To obtain the 22lbs of dry matter, the horse would need to consume just over 25lbs of hay or hay & grain each day.

If you're not sure where to start with your horse, try by feeding it about 2% of it's body weight each day and adjust it as needed. Some horses will need more, but if you're lucky your horse may need a lot less.

By Rachel Incoll

Rachel Incoll is the author of EquestrianHub.com - the number one place for everything equine online. Visit her site to discover more great tips on feeding horses, plus all the latest equestrian news, event results, horse riding tips & fun competitions.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rachel_Incoll

Read More..