Tracing Your Horse's History

Anyone who has owned an older horse, who has no knowledge of their breeding or background and has grown to love that horse, must surely wonder where he or she came from? What did they do in their past? What happened in their lives that shaped their likes and dislikes?

In pre-internet days there wasn't a lot you could do to find out but now we have access to email and on-line searchable databases, it means the horse industry is literally at our fingertips!

If your horse is a particular breed then you may be in luck, try contacting the breed society in your state and hope something turns up. Your horse might have come with a show name or brand which is registered (or was registered in the past), which may reveal his breeding and a little about his history.

If your horse is an ex-racehorse, then you are definitely in luck in your horse is from Australia. You can visit http://www.studbook.aust.com and do a search on his official racing name. It should reveal his sire and dam, his date of birth, racing history and earnings.

For standardbreds, visit http://www.harness.org.au which will give similar info.

If your horse is branded, then you need a good description of that brand. Letters and numbers are clear enough but symbol brands need to be accurately described, copy the brand down on a piece of paper, or take a clear photo when the horse has his summer coat in, or when the area has been clipped.

Most states have brand registries, including some online searchable databases. You can find a comprehensive listing of brand contacts at:

http://www.horsedirectory.com.au

Click on "Horse Resources" in the left hand menu, then "Horse Branding/Brand Marks Identification" which will direct you where to try next.

You can also contact your local EFA branch in your state and check if your horse has been registered in the past. Another good site is at: http://www.horsecouncil.org.au

They have a comprehensive links section, plus a listing of most breed organisations and societies in Australia.

But Say Your Horse is of no Particular Breed

Where do you start your search?

Your first contact should be your horse's previous owner, ask them to tell you everything they know including where they got him/her from. Then you might be able to trace him right back through a succession of previous owners and discover a wealth of info. However people move, change phone numbers and seemingly disappear into thin air. What then?.

One idea is to post on some local horse forums, they usually allow you to upload pictures.

You can also try Yahoo horse groups, if you spread the word far and wide, it just might turn something up ! You'll never know if you don't at least start digging.

If you bought your horse locally and his previous owner can't be contacted or shed any light on his/her background, try putting up notices in local feed merchants, saddle shops and veterinary surgeries, or enquire at the nearest Pony Club.

You might strike it lucky !!

By Samantha J Jane

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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Taking Care of Your Horses In The Heat

We go to great lengths to make ourselves comfortable in the hot weather, air conditioning, fans, cold drinks. What should we do to ensure our horses are also comfortable through our hot, dry and dusty summer?

1. On the priority list -

WATER is definitely right at the top! As a general rule of thumb, horses drink 3-4% of their body weight each day, with this percentage increasing following work or during hot conditions. A 550kg horse will therefore drink (in normal conditions) around 22 litres of water per day, with 50 litres not out of the question in hot weather or after work. If your horse is getting his water supply via buckets don't forget to take into account the evaporation factor, and also ensure that water remains cool. If it becomes tepid, your horse may not drink and could suffer from dehydration. Be aware that you may have to replace or top up during the day. Obviously the best scenario is for your horse to have access to clean, fresh water where he can just meet his own requirements. Horses should be cooled down after work however before being allowed free access to water.

2. On the priority list -

Your horse, like yourself, will appreciate being able to get out of the direct sun in the heat of the day. Therefore shade is important. If there are no trees to provide shade in the paddock, a roofed shelter is desirable. if your stables are cool and well ventiliated, you may decide to keep your horse in during the day and out at night.

3. On the priority list -

Light rugs, sometimes referred to as 'fly sheets', are useful in keeping your horse comfortable in the heat and less annoyed by insects (hint: light colours deflect the heat). Fly veils can also provide your horse with a higher degree of comfort in the daylight hours, but for safety, check regularly. A good fly control program is important as flies and other biting insects can carry diseases, cause sores, annoy any existing wounds and provoke allergic reactions. You may wish to regularly apply a fly repellent, there are a number on the market that are purposely designed for horses. Covering your horse up from the sun will also ensure that his coat does not suffer any "bleaching" .

4. On the priority list -

If your horse has a pink muzzle or other sun sensitive parts on his body, apply zinc cream or sun block. For the muzzle you can attach a U.V. flap from the headstall to protect his nose from the sun. 5 On the priority list - When temperatures really soar, your horse will enjoy a cool hosing or sponging down, to bring down his body temperature. Make sure you scrape the water off afterwards though or it will form a blanket of its own and trap heat to the horse.

6. On the priority list -

If possible do not stable a hot horse. Standing still in a confined area whilst hot can cause the horse's temperature to rise even higher. Walk the horse in the open air to cool off and allow him to stand where there is plenty of air to flow over his body. If possible, plan your ride to avoid the hottest part of the day, kinder on you and him!.

7. On the priority list -

Assess the availability of summer feed and the body weight/condition of your horse regularly as paddock pasture is soon dried out and burnt off by the sun. You should supplement his diet with hay when the pasture is minimised as the digestive system of the horse is designed to continually process fibre.

8. On the priority list -

You should also develop in advance a plan of action to be carried out in the eventuality of a bush fire. The development of a survival plan that meets your individual needs is important. Whether you decide that you would transport your horse to a safe district, or place him in the safest part of the property (which may be a closely grazed paddock, green swampy area, well fenced large sand menage), the main thing is to have a plan in place.

9. On the priority list -

You should also make every effort to remove any fire hazards such as long, excessive grass and leaf litter from around buildings and stables. Clean gutters regularly and store hay, shavings etc. away from the stable block throughout summer.

By Samantha J Jane

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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Why Horses Bite And What To Do About It

While watching horses play with each other, you'll notice they do things like push their bodies, rear up, strike and kick, and BITE. Of course it's all in fun and grabbing a bit of skin in their teeth is no big deal, unless the recipient is a human. It hurts !A horse that wants to bite you is usually expressing his desire to play, but he doesn't know that human skin is not quite as tough as a horse's. On one hand it's a compliment that your horse wants to play with you, on the other hand, it's a clear sign that he doesn't see you as the alpha.

Horses Never Bite Their Alpha !

Do you know how to recognise the alpha in a herd?

He or she is the one without the bite marks ! Horse's don't bite their alpha. In the game of dominance, those who 'bite best' win. When horses play and nip each other they are basically developing their dominance skills and rehearsing takeover strategies.

People Turn Playful Horses Into More Aggressive Biters

Most people smack a horse for biting, which doesn't work because prey animals don't understand punishment. They think you are biting back and now the interchange becomes all about who will 'win' the dominance game. In horse land the bravest, smartest and quickest horse wins. The alpha horse is calm, self confident and totally unemotional. He's also ready to do whatever it takes to maintain the alpha position. So when a horse goes to bite and you try to smack him, the horse just gets better at the game, he gets quicker at taking a nip and dodging the slap.

As time goes on the nip turns into bites because the horse gets more serious about dominating you. Also, when a horse can evoke an emotional reaction from you, surprise, anger, fear, he knows you have no chance of being alpha. You obviously aren't calm, smart or brave enough !

Prevention Is Better Then Cure

What does Pat Parelli do when he gets bitten ?

"I say "ow" and rub it until it stops hurting ! What else are you going to do? Slapping the horse doesn't work and it definitely doesn't improve the relationship. If you got bitten it's your fault for not thinking, being and behaving more like a horse!

Satisfy The Play Game

Many biters live in very restrictive environments, like stables and pens, and are isolated from other horses. Of course they're going to feel pent up and lonely as their need for social interaction increases. The you may be all they have!

The Parelli Seven Games teach you how to interact with your horse in a constructive and playful way and at the same time allow you to exert your leadership in ways that horses understand. Dominant horses move other horses around and that's what the Seven Games teach you do to.

The game is "who moves who". If your horse can make you move your feet, he knows it's just a matter of time before he can knock you off your perch. Horses are persistent in their quest for dominance and they are not in a hurry!

When playing the Seven Games, use them creatively as opposed to playing the games the same way every time. Always playing them the same way turns the Seven Games into Seven Jobs, and bored horses start to get pretty inventive! Try playing the games with an obstacle where the horse has to do lots of different things, from jumping the obstacle, to stepping on it, to straddling it, going sideways over it, backing up on it etc. The only limit for you and your horse is your imagination!

Indulge The Talent

A horse who is mouthy and nippy is also showing his need for oral interaction. Play with his mouth a lot, and do more then he really wants. Rub vigorously with your hands, pull his lips around (playfully of course !), rub his tongue and even teach him to lead by the tongue (very advanced). Teach him to pick up your cap or a stick or a bucket, put this obvious talent to good use!

Stay Out Of The Nip Zone

Most horse nip because they are to close to you. Learn to move your horse out of your personal space with rhythmic driving actions, use your elbows and even do jumping jacks ! Horses with a tendency to nip also tend to crowd you, they are over friendly, pushy and self confident. Simply asking the horse to stay at a respectful distance can make a big change to his nipping behaviour. Remember, if they can't reach you, they can't bite you !

Don't Smack Em Back !

If you feel a nip coming on, back your horse up quickly and intentionally. This changes their mind because it's a dominant move on your part. Give up smacking. It doesn't work, and it can actually turn a nice horse nasty. Put more backing into your daily interaction with the horse and, above all, don't let him barge into your space.

Horses Only Bite People They Don't Like, Don't Respect Or Don't Trust

Remember, horses are prey animals. They are most concerned about safety. Some horses bite because they are scared or unconfident, others bite because they are trying to dominate. In both cases, improving the relationship works. Just like people, horses need to feel liked and respected. Success with horses relies on knowing how to develop and maintain friendship and respect. It's a balancing act. You can't make a horse respect you by punishing him, in fact, it does the opposite. Aggressive people may successfully cause a horse to stop biting but they don't win the horse's heart.

Become The Kind Of Person A Horse Likes, Respects And Trusts

Play a lot of friendly games. Get your horse to like you and have positive thoughts when he sees you. Bring him apples and carrots (as gifts, not bribes!). Understand life from his perspective, understand how he develops respect, and consider his needs.

Develop your leadership skills. Teach your horse to move around you, not the other way round! Remember, horses need an alpha, or they will assume the role.

Prove to your horse you are not a predator, and that he can trust you no matter what. There's a delicate balance between getting your horse to do as you ask and preserving his confidence.

By Samantha J Jane

Samantha writes articles on several subjects including horse health issues, horse riding tips and horse rescue stories. To read more articles please visit our Horse Riding website

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Horse Training Secrets - What You Should Know

If you make a compilation about secrets on training young horses, you may finish with a book thicker than any dictionary. There has never been any shortage on tips related to training young horses; and like opinions, most of these advice may never have been proven to be right or wrong. Really, these facts are essential for horse trainers in their pursuit to build up a young horse's performance and physical characteristics.

For those who are new to horse training, the sheer number of tips on teaching young horses can drive them to madness. Some techniques and principles that exist can be conflicting to each other; and the confusion can be more evident. But to really learn about tutoring young horses, one has to be approachable to trying out various techniques by combining various horse training methods. Here are some of the most common but successful training tips for young horses that have been practiced by a lot of trainers for generations.

The average age that a horse can start learning is about five years old. Although at this age, horses are still very young and therefore should not be trained severely since at this age, a severe training program can do damage to their physical development. At this age, we should focus on letting the horse feel what it is like under the saddle.

All horse training regimen depends on the breed of the horse that you are teaching. Horses have slow and fast learners just like humans. For example, the mountain horse, which could be trained under the saddle as early as two years of age. Or the Arabians, which are notably slow on their development; Therefore, at two years old, they can barely be trained for anything yet. Even under one breed, individual horses still have their own development rate; knowing this will enable you to adjust your horse training program consequently.

While it is true that horses can start training at two or five years old, young horses should never undergo a training program that is intendant for fully-grown horses. Training sessions for younger horses must begin with fifteen to thirty minutes of training periods.

The training environment plays an important role in the training of young horses. For instance, deep layers of soft sand in the riding ring might not be a good idea for young horses because in order to move their feet out of the sand, they will have to pull harder. Also, an inclined training ground may put more stress to the young horse's developing legs; therefore, it's better to use a level field.

By Paul A Wiseman

This well known author is an Internet expert and really enjoys sharing his passion with other people. Discover more now about Horses and all about Horse Training idea at his website http://www.horseswebsite.com

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Horse Breeding Uncovered - An In-Depth Look At Breeding Horses

Feral and wild horses breed naturally with no problems, but the selective breeding of purebred horses obviously requires specialist human intervention. The mating of two such horses has to be carefully planned, in order to produce the favourable characteristics required. Human management of horse breeding also ensures healthier pregnancies and a more successful outcome for foaling.

In breeding terms, the male horse (stallion) is known as the sire, and the female (mare) is known as the dam. Each plays an equal part in the genetic make-up of any ensuing offspring, so it is important that both possess the desirable characteristics needed. This is especially important to professional breeders, who wish to produce good foals of a certain breed. It is also possible to mate two different types of horse in order to create a new breed, with its own distinctive characteristics.

In horse breeding, there are half-brothers and sisters (horses who share the same mother but have a different father), horses fathered by the same stallion (referred to as 'by the same sire') and ones that share the same mother and father (known as 'full siblings').

A horse owner needs to take several factors into account before deciding to breed the animal, such as:

- Does the breeding partner have excellent genetic qualities?

- Is the animal in good health?

- What purpose will any ensuing foal be used for? Will it be kept or sold on?

- What are the economic benefits for the owners of the sire and the dam?

Furthermore, the owner of a mare will have to take into account the extra added costs associated with seeing their animal through gestation and add to this the very expensive costs of nursing a foal. There are many things to consider, starting with the stud fee. After this, the pregnant mare will require adequate veterinary care throughout her pregnancy, and she will also need proper nutrition - both these things will cost the owner a substantial amount of money. Finally, there is the cost of caring for the foal and mother post-gestation to consider. When taking all these factors into account, it becomes apparent that it is difficult to make a profit from horse-breeding, especially for the mare owner. This is a major factor for horse owners, and many decide not to breed their animals due to the huge expense involved.

A newborn foal is worth approximately three times the cost of the stud fee, and would fetch this if sold immediately after birth. However, if the foal is kept for any longer period of time, the costs of caring for it far outweigh any profits. Sadly, foals bred without careful consideration may end up being sold at a loss, or worse still, being sold for horse meat.

To conclude, horse owners should give careful consideration to whether they wish to breed their animal, what their motivations are and how achievable they may be.

By Sid Levett

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To Be "Dewormed" Or Not To Be "Dewormed" - That Is The Question!

Truth And Consequences

I've been told, you have been told, and we have all been told that "all horses have worms". Likewise, we have been told that if you don't deworm your horse(s) EVERY 2-3 months you are a "bad" horse owner, right? Well perhaps no one actually called you bad - but you WERE shown all those horrible pictures of all those horrible worms and informed of all those horrendous consequences. Eventually you believed, I believed, we all believed! Fear and guilt are incredible tactics BUT notice I used the past tense believED! Why the change? For me it was merely a matter of just remembering the truth. I woke up from my guilt-like trance and remembered that way back when I first graduated from vet school all horses didn't have worms. I remembered that way back before easy to use, convenient paste wormers were available, at the most, we dewormed twice a year. I also remembered that most veterinarians did a fecal check exam on horses each time before we treated them. If they didn't have a positive test, we simply did not deworm! Exceptions were only the obvious need, like a "wormy" looking horse. Bottom line is many horses didn't have worms then and many horses don't now, either! So what changed along the way? Why is their so much indiscriminant deworming today? Has the change been good or bad for our equine friends? How about those daily "preventatives", are they really the answer?

Dewormers - The disease or the cure?

Horses that tend to have worms simply do - horse that don't tend to have worms, simply don't. Just like people - some people get sick all the time, some hardly ever, regardless of the exposure. If horses do have parasites, studies have shown that actually about two out of three horses will become reinfected in eight to ten weeks after deworming. When reinfected, those that initially had high numbers of eggs will continue to have high numbers. Those that had low numbers to begin with had low numbers later, too! So the parasites can be reduced with chemicals BUT they obviously just come back in "parasite prone" horses anyway. Could this be more of a genetic-type resistance in the horse rather than effectiveness of dewormers? In my opinion, the more you give chemicals the weaker the horse becomes, with a consequent tendency for many more problems. Have you noticed all the horses with allergies today? How about all the horses with chronic lung problems? Why all of a sudden do horses have a problem from being exposed to the opossum (EPM) when the two, horses and the opossum, have co-mingled for millions of years. Could our horses be weaker today? Noticed more laminitis lately? How about colic? There are certainly other contributing factors such as over-vaccination, improper nutrition, etc., but no doubt our horses are weaker today than they used to be. Many holistic oriented veterinarians like myself, truly believe we are damaging our horses. As much as this absolutely makes sense to me it may still just be my opinion. But facts are facts and it is a fact that parasites are becoming resistance to dewormers. The literature actually is reporting considerable resistance to wormers like Benzelmin, Panacur and Anthelcide. There is even resistance to Strongid (pyrantel pamoate) being reported. Noticed a price drop lately in these products? This brings to my mind the question, how effective are these "daily" products if resistance is already present? The only product that doesn't have resistance problems in equine parasites is Ivermectin. For goats however, it is a different situation - there is a lot of resistance to Ivermectin, and deworming goats these days is quite difficult. There is nothing left to use! This problem is coming for horses - What will we do then? What is the "cure" today may be the disease soon - especially if chemicals are weakening our horses, too! A recent article in a major Equine health magazine stated "custom deworming programs based on consultation of a veterinarian and fecal exams of individual horses will help postpone drug abuse, and thus drug resistance by common parasites". They went on to state a "looming disaster" if we continue deworming the way we do today. My feelings, exactly - we have a serious situation!

"As needed" deworming, the answer!

Hopefully you are getting the sense that "as needed" deworming may really be the answer. The key is to determine WHEN deworming is needed! The first step is to understand that each horse is an individual - each with an individual need and circumstance. Rather than just deworming by the calender, it is our responsibility to look at each situation. This may not be as difficult as it sounds and I assure you it will even be cheaper! Now, I imagine I have your attention - less money! Let's face it, saving money is important -- especially when you have 30 or so horses like I do and especially when it is not much more difficult. The answer is simply to check a fecal sample first before you deworm. All it takes is a thimble full of manure. Your veterinarian can do it for you. Most usually charge $10 -$15. Do expect a little resistance because they, too, have been exposed to the same myth that "all horses have worms" for quite some time. Most have said it so much and haven't checked in so long they too believe it as fact. Most likely they will try to just sell you a paste wormer. Yes it may be cheaper at the moment - but what if you did have a naturally resistant horse that simply didn't need deworming anyway? What if you had 10 of your 30 that didn't have worms? How about if they NEVER had eggs in the fecal material? I think you could not only save money, but also have healthier horses and definitely have fewer resistant parasites in the future. I once stated in an article that resistant parasites would soon be wearing a coat of armor oblivious to everything! I can't imagine trying to handle a real parasite problem under those circumstances. It is sort of like the antibiotic situation we will soon be facing if "modern world" doesn't wake up. The most "modern dewormer" today, Quest, will even kill your dog if he happens to get a hold of a little. How much stronger will they become?

I want to offer another solution - If you will mention this article, our lab will even check one horse for free with the purchase of EACH all-natural Worm Check™ product. That is putting our money where our mouth is! Inside each package is a mailer for the manure sample and a few questions to answer about each horse. Usually it takes six proofs of purchase to receive a free parasite exam with our product. This offer is quite a savings since the Worm Check™ paste only costs $14.99. You can use this free parasite exam to check either before you use the Worm Check™ paste, or any other product for that matter, or to test for effectiveness afterwards. Worm Check™ is an all-natural combination of several herbs that is proving effective on all species of parasites. Technically, however, it is not a dewormer but an herbal supplement in paste form. We have not proven it effective against bots because we have to kill the horse(s) to determine this - I just can't do that! The best time to check for effectiveness after deworming with any product is 2-3 weeks. If you have a horse with a large number of eggs it should be checked and dewormed regularly, as needed. These "shedders" are the real problem on most farms. New horses entering your farm should ideally be isolated for several days and checked prior to putting them into the group. Any horse showing clinical signs of parasite problems, i.e. that "wormy looking" horse, should always best be examined by your veterinarian. There are some stages of parasites that just don't show up in a fecal exam, regardless.

Which horses generally need deworming and which don't?

As we have stated, those that have worms need it and those that don't, do not, but there are a few general guidelines to follow. Young horses are more prone to problems associated with parasites, particularly roundworm impactions, whereas older horses are usually immune to round worms and other species, too, for that matter. A few horses on a large pasture would seldom have a problem because horses seldom pick where they have gone to the bathroom if they have enough room. This selective grazing is why wild horses seldom have a problem with parasites. Even horses in 12 X 12 stalls would seldom have a problem if the stalls were picked daily. Get the picture? Crowding is usually the culprit, and the obvious stress associated with it. Other important factors are time of year and where you live. The climate is a major factor in whether or not parasite eggs even develop into a transmissible state. Worms would not likely be a problem in a dry, hot area whereas if the season is warm and moist you might be more concerned. A really cold winter would put a damper on the problem, too. Another potential problem situation might be a horse that has been on a daily wormer most of his life. This horse would never have had the opportunity to develop any natural resistance. Also, it is easy to develop a false sense of security with these products and just never check them. Don't make that mistake - remember these classes of dewormers are the type that most parasites do develop resistance to. That is why so many of the newer "generic" ones are 2X, or twice the strength. One more note about such daily products: if you buy a new horse always ask the "daily wormer" history. Sudden exposure to a wormy environment with no resistance could be disastrous.

Our horses' future is in our hands.

I don't expect a lot of change - old habits and old myths are hard to put to rest. I also know I am not making many friends in the "drug" world - but then again my interest is our equine friend, not to "win and influence friends". It is up to us - you and me. If I knew something was wrong and didn't do anything about it, well..... that would even be a greater problem. Most people just don't know. So.... Will you help me tell them? I do ask you to consider checking fecal exams first before you deworm. Consider, too, the consequences if you deworm indiscriminately! Most importantly, start asking questions. A good question to begin with would be "is that drug or chemical really necessary?"

By Danny Clay

For More information visit our website http://www.YourHorseVet.com or contact Dan at info@YourHorseVet.com

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Weight Loss In Horses

Weight loss is a condition that many horse owners have had to deal with at one time or another. A horse that appears thin may be suffering from weight loss due to a number of causes. However there are three common causes of weight loss in horses: malnutrition, parasitism and dental disease.

If a horse is suffering from malnutrition then the number of calories it is consuming is less than the number it is using, it may also suffer from an incorrectly balanced diet. Causes of this include feeding poor quality feed, supplying inadequate amounts of feed or the horse maybe missing out on feed due to competition at feeding time.

Parasites can rob your horse of much needed nutrition as the parasites consume the nutrients or cause inflammation of the horse's gut leading to poor absorption of nutrients across the gut wall. A targeted parasite management program involving the use of appropriate dewormers given at the correct dose, combined with pasture management and fecal egg counts should minimise the impact parasites are having on your horses.
Dental problems can decrease your horses FCR or Food Conversion Ratio this is a measure of how efficient your horse is at converting feed into energy. The first two steps in digestion are prehension or picking up the feed and mastication or chewing. Any change in the efficiency of these two steps has a direct effect on the efficiency of the rest of the digestive process, as the rest of the digestive tract is only as efficient as these two steps. In severe cases loose, fractured or infected teeth can cause a horse to stop eating all together.

There are many other causes of weight loss in the horse, however the three covered above are the most common and should always be addressed when assessing a horse for weight loss. Other causes of weight loss can include but are not limited to tumours, disease of major organs such as the kidneys or liver, issues affecting hormone levels, inflammation of the intestine, chronic infection and stomach ulcers.

A useful tool in evaluating and reassessing weight loss in horses in to use a body condition scoring system. There are two main systems used one system grades horses from 1 - 5 with 1 being very poor condition and 5 being obese the other system grades horses from 1-9. The key difference between the two systems is the greater degree of accuracy of the 1-9 system.

Another tool that can help is the use of weight tapes although bear in mind that these are not always very accurate, alternatively if you are lucky you may live in an area where you vet or racetrack have digital scales you can use to weigh your horse more accurately.
While we are discussing weight loss in horses we should also talk about the dangers of a horse being too heavy. The same risks posed to people by being obese apply to our horses as well as a few of their own. Overweight horses have increased pressure on their joints and vital organs and are at risk of metabolic syndrome, which has been identified as a cause of laminitis (inflammation of the sensitive structures connecting the hoof wall to the pedal bone).

Overweight horses need a decreased calorie intake often combined with an increase in exercise.

By Shannon Lee

About the Author. Dr Shannon Lee is a an equine veterinarian who concentrates on equine dentistry. He has presented several scientific papers, provides lectures and tutorials to veterinarians and veterinary students. Advises government bodies on regulation pertaining to equine dentistry, and has an active role in research in the equine dental field. http://www.advancedequinedentistry.com.au

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