Horse Show Program - What You Need to Know Before You Ask Someone Else

What questions can a horse show program answer? Face it we have all been there, more often if you are newer to the whole horse show scene. Questions like when is your next class? Do we get a riding lunch break? How much is the sweepstakes class? When is the next show?

These are a few of the many questions that may pop into your mind while at a horse show. If you are newer to showing, or showing with a new association, questions like these will become apparent throughout the day. Where is the best place to look to get your questions answered? You guessed it, the horse show program.

What Is A Horse Show Program?

The term horse show program seems like a broad term that can be taken a few ways. In one meaning it can imply you are discussing the specific program or schedule of the show you are at. In another it can be applied as your specific program to prepare for a horse show. Yet another aspect could be a specific event occurring at a horse show.

For the purposes of this article, we will be discussing the horse show program as the show bill or show schedule. Every show association will have a schedule of classes for each part of the show.

It can also be a term encompassing specific association rules and regulations. The horse show program can change from one show to the next. Most programs are printed on a single sheet of paper and are available in the show office.

It might be beneficial to grab an extra copy to keep one in your pocket and one posted near your horse. This way you will be able to follow along a little easier with the progression of the show. You will also be able to plan your activities and figure out how much time you have between classes.

What Can You Expect To Find On A Horse Show Program?

Depending on where you show, each program will be put together a little differently. The show bill will have the name of the show or show series along with the selected dates for the other shows. If the shows are held at different locations, this should also be outlined on the program.

The judges selected for the year should also be listed on the show bill. Most of the program will consist of a list of classes in order of progression. If the show is two days or more, the classes will be listed under the day(s) they will be offered through the course of the show.

Start times should also be included on the show bill to notify exhibitors when the first horses of the day are expected to be at the in-gate. You can also find a summary of rules and regulations for the show. These rules are usually those that are frequently asked about, or are the more important rules that need to be repeated to continuously remind exhibitors.

Other fees associated with the show including stalls, camping hookup, judge/class fees, office fees, random drug testing fees, and blanket fees all should be listed on the show bill.

Some horse show programs will include information on each division along with point tally information and eligibility for year-end awards if offered. You will want to pay close attention to the divisions for the classes you will be exhibiting in. Make sure you meet the age and experience requirements to avoid any problems with the show association.

Other inclusions on the horse show program will vary from one show to another. In any case, it can be used as a reference for many questions. It can also save you some wasted time to walk to the show office to ask a related question.

For all simple questions, refer to the horse show program before seeking alternate sources of information. If you are new to showing horses, you might be surprised how much the show bill alone can help answer questions.

What If You Still Have Questions?

If you check over the information provided to you in the show bill and are still unable to find the answer you are looking for, you have a few other options to have your questions answered.

If you are near any other show participants it is probably easiest to ask one of them. They may be able to provide you a quick answer. Just make sure you are considerate of other exhibitor activities when approaching with your question.

If you have a more complicated question about a club rule, you are better off walking to the show office, where they can answer any question. The show office will likely be busy with other show exhibitors through the day and you will have to wait your turn to ask your question. You can decide if it is worth the time waiting in line.

Hopefully some of your questions are answered after reading this article. In summary, refer to the show bill first to make sure you can't answer your own question before seeking out the help of someone else. It may save you some time waiting in line or finding someone to answer your question.

By Lynn Wenger

About The Author:

Lynn Wenger invites you to visit http://www.stock-horse-show-source.com/horse-show-program.html for more information on how to put together a horse show program that is right for you.

Lynn has been active in riding and showing horses since 2000. She is a lifelong equine addict with no hopes of recovery and admits since buying her first horse as a young adult that she is an expert on not being an expert when it comes to owning and showing horses. She is also the creator and founder of Stock Horse Show Source http://www.stock-horse-show-source.com, developed to educate novice equine enthusiasts on the basics of horse keeping and showing.

So lope on over, park your horse, and sign up for (ezine title) and you'll never miss a hoofbeat!

(c) Copyright stock-horse-show-source.com, all rights reserved

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10 Rules For Selling Horses

When you are selling horses, your goal is probably to make a profit. Perhaps you purchased a horse and subsequently trained him so you can sell him for twice what you paid, or maybe your current competition horse is no longer sufficient for your abilities. Whatever the case, you should keep profits in mind when selling horses.

That said, etiquette is important in the horse industry, and you can easily make enemies if you aren't careful about how you handle potential buyers. Just like with buying horses, you need to have a level head and a strategy to make the sale.

1- Groom Your Horses

Selling horses is a lot like selling real estate: first impressions matter, and the beauty on the inside is secondary. When people come to look at your horses for sale, you want them to see the most beautiful animal possible, so make sure you groom your horses on a daily basis while they are on the market.

You should also pay attention to those annoying grooming rituals that you might normally forego. Bathing and clipping, for example, are good habits when selling horses. Just bathe once a week while your horses are on the market, and make sure ears, fetlocks, muzzles and bridle paths are trimmed regularly.

2- Return Phone Calls

Or e-mails, or faxes, or any medium through which potential buyers might try to get in touch with you. The horse business moves quickly, and if you wait 24 or 48 hours to get back to buyers, they might already have found other horses that meet their needs. My advice is to try to return phone calls and e-mails within 6 hours of receipt.

Of course, the manner in which you return communication is also important in selling horses. Are you friendly on the phone? Do you invite questions? Do you make time to give the buyer details about your inventory? Think like a salesperson when selling horses, and you can't go wrong.

3- Prepare Media

The more materials you have when selling horses, the better your chances. I advise, in addition to a text ad in appropriate publications, both videos and pictures to showcase the horses you intend to sell.

A text ad for selling horses should be well-written, with proper grammar and appropriate details for the market your horses are in. Be completely honest about your horses' personalities and abilities; don't "pad" your text ad with information that isn't true. The buyer will find out.

As for videos, it is better to not make one at all than to make a poor one. Use a good-quality camera and hold it steady as you shoot the video. Try to showcase the horses' most impressive attributes, such as jumping or dressage. You'll also want to get a close-up of horses standing and walking.

Photographs have the same rules as videos when selling horses, but they aren't as flexible. Since you can't show motion, just make sure the pictures are in focus and as clear as possible.

4- Ride the Horse First

This is a simple manner of etiquette, but an important one. When selling horses, it is customary for the owner to ride the horse for the buyer before allowing the buyer to try him out. This demonstrates that you are comfortable with the horse, and gives the buyer a chance to see the horse in action.

The only exception is when selling horses you aren't comfortable with. In this case, make it clear to buyers that you aren't sufficiently skilled to handle the horse, but that you are willing to let them ride him if they wish. Make sure they sign a liability waiver before you let them mount up.

5- Provide Written Records

The best way to convince buyers that you are an ideal seller when selling horses is to show them how organized you are. Prepare a notebook or binder with all of your horses' records, from veterinary documents to farrier receipts and Coggins tests. Order everything chronologically and include a physical description of your horse, his pedigree and any other pertinent information.

In this vein, selling horses is a lot like selling cars. Buyers want to know when the horse had his last "tune-up" and how often you've practiced good maintenance. This will reassure the buyer that the horse is in excellent health.

6- Limit Riding Time

You have a responsibility to the buyer when selling horses, but you also have a responsibility to your horse. For example, if you're showing your horse in the dead of summer, you won't want a buyer to ride your horse for two hours while he "gets the feel" of him. You are perfectly within your rights to say, "I think he's had enough."

If the buyer has a problem with limited riding time, invite him to come out another day to try him again. A good buyer will want to do that anyway, so try to accommodate without putting your horse at risk.

7- Be Honest About Temperament

Some horses just shouldn't be ridden by children, and if you have one of them, let all buyers know this. The ethical way to go about selling horses is to be up-front and honest about your horse's temperament. If he needs an advanced rider, say so.

8- Clue the Buyer In

Every horse is different, so try to give the buyer a hand when selling horses. Tell him that your horse takes a short rein or not much leg or lots of verbal encouragement. This will help the buyer to have a positive first ride and will limit frustrations.

This is especially true when it comes to safety issues. For example, I once had a horse that would flip out if you got anywhere near him with a bat or crop. The same went for spurs. If your horse is sensitive to certain artificial aids or if he'll buck with too much leg, make sure the buyer knows before he climbs aboard.

9- Price High

Negotiation is expected when selling horses, so don't list your horse at the lowest price you'll possibly accept. Increase the price about $500 or $600 over what you are willing to take, then let the buyer negotiate you down. He'll feel as though he's gotten a great deal and you won't feel tempted to accept a low-ball offer.

That said, don't gouge the buyer. Appropriate horse prices are difficult to gauge, so start listening to buyer feedback. If ten buyers scoff at your entry price, take it down a notch or two. Your horse might not be worth as much as you originally thought.

10- Shut Up

When selling horses, many people have the tendency to talk constantly as the buyer looks over the horse and takes him for a test drive. This is a big mistake. Even if you are just nervous, the buyer is going to think you are trying to distract him from something that is wrong with the animal.

Conduct a brief introduction of the horse, explain anything the buyer needs to know, then let the horse do the talking. You should of course answer any questions the buyer might have, but resist the urge to go on and on.

Selling horses can be a frustrating process, but eventually you will find a buyer. Just continue to advertise your horse and market in places where interested buyers are likely to take notice.

By Laura Jane Thompson

Laura Thompson is a horse business consultant and the owner of EquiManagement. She has worked with horses all her life and is a certified riding instructor. Her areas of expertise include program development, equine acquisitions, stable management, marketing and safety. She has also worked as a horse trainer and barn manager in the past, and she frequently writes about her experience with horses and the horse business.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Laura_Jane_Thompson

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Get Your Horse Into Shape

If you plan to show or compete with your horse, it is essential that you get your horse into shape. His muscle strength and stamina will determine how he handles rigorous work, and a fit horse will not be as stressed on show day. Of course, even if you are not competing your horse, fitness is an important issue.

Many riders focus only on themselves: developing leg strength, improving balance, increasing stamina. This philosophy is a mistake because it increases the chance your horse will be hurt because he isn't in shape.

Endurance

The first way to get your horse into shape is to focus on endurance. This simply means the length of time your horse can perform certain activities without dangerously accelerating his respiration and heart rate. I recommend that horse owners observe endurance rides at least once a week.

An endurance ride is usually conducted in a field or on a trail because the arena can become monotonous. Depending on whether or not your horse is currently in shape, an endurance ride could take an hour or more, so prepare for longevity. In the beginning, however, an out-of-shape horse shouldn't be ridden longer than 30 minutes for endurance.

Contrary to popular belief, trot work is the most conducive to endurance. It combines moderate speed with constant activity in the legs, and won't wear the horse out as fast as cantering or galloping. Your horse can definitely trot for thirty straight minutes, but it is doubtful he can canter that long.

Form

The way in which a horse moves is directly related to his fitness level. A fit horse will be able to move correctly, using his muscles efficiently and balancing himself both on the straight-away and on corners and circles. When you work to get your horse into frame on a regular basis, he will automatically increase his fitness level.

Working your horse in a rig is one way to get him into shape. Rigs include draw reins, side reins and training forks, and must be used properly for the horse's safety. Side reins, for example, are only used in hand or on the lunge line, while draw reins and training forks can be used while mounted.

The purpose of these rigs is not to force your horse into the proper position, but to show him how he should carry himself. Use them as tools rather than instruments of doom and you'll experience positive results. That said, make sure you ask a trainer or riding instructor to show you the proper ways to use them.

Weather

A horse you think is in shape during the winter might reach the blistering summer months and suddenly seem lethargic and weak. Horses respond to differences in the weather much the same as we do, and it is important to consider the weather outside when you're trying to get your horse into shape.

Not only is the hear a factor during the summer, but also the humidity. It can affect respiration and wear your horse out faster than he would in a dry clime.

My policy, when the weather begins to heat up, is to start all over with getting my horse into shape. I begin again with short endurance rides, working up to longer bouts as he develops a tolerance for the heat. The same goes for the winter; I allow my horse to slowly grow used to the drop in temperature.

Discipline

It is easy for horseback riders to become so entrenched in their chosen disciplines that they forget the amazing versatility and flexibility of riding in general. They work every day on reining, dressage, jumping, cutting, western pleasure or any number of other disciplines because that is where their focus lies.

Big mistake.

Your horse will find it easier to get into shape when he has some variety in his workouts. You might compete only in dressage, but would your horse benefit from trail riding, jumping or regular flat work occasionally? You bet. It will challenge him to use muscles that are not commonly exercised in dressage.

It's just like people. You ride horses, so you probably think you're in shape. But what if you took up karate or basketball? You'd use different muscle groups in different ways, and you'd probably be sore in the morning.

Getting your horse into shape will take time, and it requires constant effort. Horses can experience fluctuating fitness levels just like we can, so make exercise a primary goal for you and your horse.

By Laura Jane Thompson

Laura Thompson is a horse business consultant and the owner of EquiManagement. She has worked with horses all her life and is a certified riding instructor. Most of her time is spent writing about horses and the horse business and working with horse business owners.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Laura_Jane_Thompson

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Horse Feeding Tips

A horse's nutritional requirements and his digestive system have not changed since the time he was first domesticated thousands of years ago. However, due to a lack of knowledge, convenience considerations and an over-zealous adoption of the scientific claims of the feed industry, the way we feed a horse has changed dramatically. Often, these methods contradict what natural horsemanship tells us about feeding and result in health problems for the horse and management problems for owner.

Certain principles of natural horsemanship can be applied to choosing a proper feeding program for the horse. Just as we studied aspects of horse physiology and psychology when approaching training techniques, it is beneficial to think in these terms when we decide how to feed our horses. This will tell us both what to feed and how to feed.

It doesn't take an expert in natural horsemanship or equine nutrition to understand that feeding flakes of alfalfa and grain supplements twice a day to a horse in a stall is not what Mother Nature intended. Indeed, that approach completely ignores a few basic principles that every horse owner should know about their four-legged charges.

A horse's digestive system is designed to obtain the maximum nutritional benefit from a diet of high-fiber and low-energy grasses. The foundation of a healthy, natural diet for a modern, domesticated horse is grass and grass hay. A horse in his natural environment will spend many hours a day grazing. Most experts say that a horse needs to consume at least 1.5 - 2 lb. of good quality hay and grain for every 100 lbs of body weight. Much will depend upon the metabolism of the horse. Horses that are heavily worked, pregnant and lactating mares will consume up to 3 lbs of dry matter for every 100 lbs. of body weight.

Grass hay is much preferable to alfalfa for the bulk for the horse's diet for several reasons. Alfalfa is a very rich or "hot" feed for the horse. It contains approximately 50% more protein and energy per pound than grass hay. Its phosphorous to calcium ratio is also too high for a horse's requirements. When fed with grain, as alfalfa often is, numerous digestive problems including colic may result. Alfalfa may be fed but only in small quantities almost as a supplement, not as the predominant feed component.

Not all hay is the same. The nutritional content of hay depends not only on the variety of grass grown, but also on the soil and amount and type of fertilizer used. Hay quality also can vary and should be examined prior to purchasing. Good hay exhibits the following qualities:

1. Should be leafy as opposed to containing too many stems. Most of hay's protein is contained in the leaves.

2. Good-quality hay should exhibit a light green color. If it is too yellow or brown, it might have been harvested too late and may not contain proper nutrients.

3. The hay should smell fresh and sweet. Hay that smells moldy or musty should be avoided. Feeding moldy hay can result in colic.

4. Check for weeds and other non-hay matter. Good horse hay should contain a bare minimum of weeds, sticks and debris.

Unfortunately, hay comes without supermarket labels specifying nutritional content, but often a reputable hay supplier will have a laboratory analysis available for a particular cutting of hay he is selling. Parameters to look for include:

1. Moisture: usually averages around 10%. Higher than 13% may result in palatability problems and even mold proliferation.

2. Crude protein: Legume hay will run 20% or more. High quality grass hay might run as high as 12-15%. A minimum should be at least 8%.

3. Digestible energy (DE): This is an estimate of the amount of energy available to the horse from the hay. This figure will vary depending upon the stage of growth at which the grass was cut and harvested. Young grass will have a higher DE. As the crop matures, DE decreases as the lignin content increases. A DE reading of less than 1.65 Mcal/kilogram indicates a high level of indigestibility and should not be fed to horses. This could cause impaction colic.

4. Acid detergent fibre (ADF: Indicates the digestibility of fiber in the hay. ADF levels above 45% indicate poor nutritional levels, while values less than 31% indicate excellent quality hay.

When horses ran wild, their food supply consisted of different kinds of grasses grown in one pasture or field. Today we have lost that natural variety. An improved pasture is more than likely to contain just one variety of hay grass. Feeding just one type of hay can limit the nutritional value of the horse's ration, especially trace minerals. Several different kinds of hay, ideally, should be fed. This will not only provide a more balanced diet but will also vary taste and texture characteristics of the feed as well.

A horse will also nibble eagerly on all kinds of vegetable matter. A good idea is to provide your horse with tree branches with leaves to chew on. He will not only be able to derive needed nutrients but will use his teeth and wear them down naturally. A horse's teeth are continually growing, and because of domestication and modern feeding techniques, usually need to be rasped down once a year. In the wild the horse is apt to feed in such a way that the growth of his teeth is naturally kept under control.

In addition to being perfectly suited to extracting maximum nutritional value from grasses, a horse's digestive system has other requirements which are often ignored by owners. The relatively small size of the stomach limits the amount of feed that can be safely consumed at one time. A horse is unable to vomit or belch. Eating a large volume of hay and grain concentrate twice a day, as most horses do, can be unhealthy and even dangerous. A horse should eat small amounts, many times a day.

One of the unique features of the horse's digestive system is that even though he has but one stomach compartment, as opposed to ruminants like cows, there is a large microbial population in the cecum and colon. These microbes have the ability to break down and utilize the nutrients contained in forage. The peculiar shape of the colon which bends back upon itself numerous times reduces the rate at which digested food is able to pass. This allows more efficient utilization of roughages in the horse's feed, but also can cause digestive problems when the horse is not fed correctly.

If you observe a horse eating in a barn situation, you can readily see that he prefers to eat off the ground. Most feeders require a horse to eat with their necks extended and their heads raised. This is an unnatural position for a horse to eat. Grass particles and debris fall back into his face and eyes. The horse cannot properly chew his food, and respiratory problems can result when the horse constantly inhales dust from the hay. It's better to place hay on the ground in small amounts and in different places.

A diet of high-quality grass and hay should provide all the energy and protein needs non-working horses require. However, if a horse is in training, shows in performance classes or is ridden frequently, you might want to supplement with grain. Although this might be considered a departure from a purely natural approach to feeding, riding and working a horse is a complete departure from what nature intended as well.

In his natural environment as a wild, prey animal, a horse consumed very little grain. His very limited grain consumption took place in the fall from natural grasses that had gone to seed. This probably served to put on extra weight before winter. However, our energy demands on a horse have changed nutritional demands on him as well.

If a horse needs more energy, fat and protein in his diet than he is receiving from a grass and hay-based diet, there are several ways you can get him that additional nutrition. It's a good idea to avoid feeding the quantity of sugar and molasses present in many commercial sweet feeds. Just as in humans, the ingestion of large amounts of sugar can play havoc with the horse's insulin-regulating mechanism. Compounded grain products may also contain other undesirable ingredients such as fish and animal by-products.

You can get your horse the extra energy he needs through supplementing with rice and wheat bran or oats and barley. Limit the horse's intake of prepared rations of grain except for pregnant and lactating mares and young foals. We want to feed naturally but we don't want to reject out of hand advances in feed science. Educate yourself and choose supplements based on your horse's true needs. Do not overfeed grain, however.

Natural supplements that are useful to include in a horse's daily ration include flaxseed. Flaxseed is a good source for important Omega-3 fatty acids that are so important in human diets too. Omega-3 fatty acids can play a role in alleviating chronic inflammation and strengthen the immune system. They can improve the condition of a horse's coat and hooves.

Food-grade diatomaceous earth (DE) supplements is a lesser-known source of trace minerals, internal and external parasite control, improved feed utilization and fly control. DE is a desiccant and can be used as a feed supplement or can be spread around stalls and the barn and will kill 75% of flies, fleas and mites that come into contact with it. Horse owners who use DE religiously claim that feeding DE to their foals and grown horses eliminates the need for chemical worming.

Horses themselves can be a judge of what trace minerals they need to consume. Have you ever seen a horse digging in the ground and begin to lick some special rock they've found? He seems to know instinctively what minerals he is lacking and where he can get them. This probably pertains more to a wild and varied environment than to a controlled and limited pasture environment. For that reason, it is a good idea to provide a free-choice salt and trace mineral product especially formulated for horses.

When horses are first offered this feeding option, they will initially consume a considerable amount but begin self-regulating very quickly. A supply of salt is essential to a horse's health and well-being. In the wintertime salt should be manually added to a horse's feed in order to ensure that he drinks the proper amount of water. Be sure to make available to the horse an unlimited supply of fresh, clean water.

By Anita Lamb

http://www.horsetrainingwiz.com
http://www.horsetraining.blogspot.com

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Zen Gardening

For a region that is predominantly Buddhist, Chan, or Zen, is an important philosophy. Zen is a term used for a school that teaches the teachings of Buddha and how they are active in the natural world. Buddhism was in China before the Zen teachings, and when the Indian prince Bodhidharma introduced the idea to the Buddhist in 526 A.D., they were amazed at his way of seeing the world for what it is. Zen took off after Bodhidharma's ideas were spread.

Schools of Zen teachings were a mix of the Daoism philosophy and Mahayana. These were very strict schools that insisted on the idea that separate things exist only in relation to one another, which means nature cannot be defined or classified in any way. The goal of these Buddhist practicing Zen was to accomplish the way of seeing the world as Buddha did, just as it is, with a mind that has no grasping thoughts or feelings. Schools that teach Zen recognize the importance of the arts, such as: painting, calligraphy, architecture, ceremonial tea drinking, and gardening. Other areas of Buddhism, such as Japan, practice arts such as Jujitsu as an art as well. Of the Zen arts, gardening is one of the most important and interesting forms of art.

Gardening has been done in Zen for almost a millennium. In the eleventh century, monks began creating these gardens as a tool to teach the principals of Zen and Buddhism to students. These gardens take careful consideration and care to make a peaceful environment for meditation. It takes a lot of labor to keep them looking nice, but Buddhist think of it more of an opportunity to create than just a basic chore. The gardens have to be a perfect place to meditate.

We know these gardens simply as the desktop sand box with a rake, but there is a lot more to a Zen garden. Everything in a garden is there for a reason. Every single rock, plant, sand spread, water form, and bridge serves a purpose for the garden. The number 3 has importance in Buddhism because of the Buddhist trinity and the sky, earth, and humanity. Odd numbers are used because of the Buddhist belief that the earth is not an even structure and nature is naturally uneven. All gardens are meant to be massive landforms on a much smaller scale.

The materials used in the gardens represent different things. Of the objects used, rocks are the most meaningful. Tall rocks are used to symbolize the sky and wide flat rocks are used to symbolize the earth. Some rocks are even used to represent animals or specific landforms. The sand spreads are the most interesting part of Zen gardens; they are important because they are meant to give a sense of emotion while meditating. While many plants are used in the gardens, floral fixtures are rarely found because they are not naturally occurring. Not everything used is natural; pathways, bridges, a lanterns are frequently used to guide the visitor in the path that Buddha would take. They also are used to show Buddhist beliefs, such as, the Eight-Fold Path. Everything in a garden has a purpose.

These beautiful gardens are now all over the Buddhist countries in Asia. What began in China is now celebrated more in Japan and Korea. Japan is home to the world's finest gardens, such as, Kyoto, Nijo, Katsura, Sento and numerous others. Over time, the gardens have stayed true to the basic style, the only exception is Japan, many of their gardens have a lot of ponds and other water fixtures. The gardens, though a big tourist attraction, are still used today.

Overall, the ultimate goal of Zen and Zen gardening is to show the world from the point of view that Buddha saw it. Because of this, they are some of the most unique gardens in the world. They give monks a great place to meditate and are fun to look at. Their popularity in Asia has brought them to the United States. Americans use miniature dry rock gardens with sand and a rake as a relaxation devise. There are even a couple of Zen gardens in the Chicago land area. They look simple and easy to make, but they are really complex and need a lot of care. If a leaf falls in any design, it must be picked up, that's just how meaningful and important Zen gardens are.

By Sarah W. Daniels

Sarah Daniels
http://www.gardengirly.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sarah_W._Daniels

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Best Methods of Horses Mating

Some horse owners new to breeding are quite embarrassed by the functions involved in horses mating and the best methods to get proven results from each breeding encounter. There are two main methods used in producing results from your horses mating: pasture breeding, and hand breeding. Of those two, hand breeding is the one that is proven to be the most reliable method, but it is the one that also produces the most embarrassment for beginning breeders.

Pasture Breeding

Pasture breeding is the simplest form of breeding in that the only thing that needs to be done is to release a stallion in with one or more selected mares to be bred and leave them alone to do what nature intended them to do. There is no need to watch your horses mating, in fact, it may be near to impossible to catch some of the shyer stallions in the act although most are quite exhibitionist in nature and have no shame in doing their thing in full view of anyone who desires to watch.

Some of the pros of pasture breeding are:

• No embarrassment-There is no need to watch.

• Less hassle-Horses are simply left together and the time spent is only in putting them out in the pasture.
• Physically less dangerous for the owners-Since there is no contact with the animals involved during the mating it is safer for the owners.

Some of the cons regarding pasture breeding horse mating methods are:

• No Assurance-Since you are not likely to stand watch 24/7 to ensure the stallions have successfully mated with the mares in question there is no way to tell for sure that the mating took place.
• Unknown breeding dates-While you will know the average range of dates calculated from the day you released the stallion in with the mares to the day you took him out of the pasture that the foal may be due you cannot know the exact date of expectancy making it harder for you to be present when a foal is born.
• Stallion risks-One reason so many valuable stallions are only live bred by hand are that in a free and open situation a reluctant mare can seriously damage the stallion as he attempts to seduce and mate with her. There have been many instances where extremely valuable animals were even castrated by a well aimed kick from an angry mare.

Hand Breeding

By far the most popular method of getting the best results from horses mating is using the hand breeding method. This ensures copulation in a safe and controlled situation where the dangers to the stallion are also greatly reduced.

In this method the stallion is lead on a lead rope to where the mare is being held and allowed to court and then mount. If a mare becomes reluctant, or even violent the stallion can be pulled away to keep him safe. It is imperative that a stallion be taught impeccable ground manners beforehand so that they are completely controllable even when hormonally aroused. This method is also best because if a stallion is successful in courting and the mare is willing but he has trouble getting the proper position he can be assisted by hand to ensure the copulation actually takes place.

Pros of hand breeding are:

• Insured insemination

• Accurate delivery dates-Since you are present at the breeding you know exactly when to calculate the arrival of an expected foal. This allows you to be present should any difficulties occur during delivery and possibly prevent the loss of a valuable foal.

By Katie Appleby

Katie Appleby is an accomplished niche website developer and author.

To learn more about horse breeding, please visit Horses Today for current articles and discussions.

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The Thoroughbred Horse - Thoroughly Bred For Distance Racing

The Thoroughbred is also known as the Thoroughbred Racehorse even though that is not their only use. While they have historically been bred for racing, their 16 to 17.3 hand height and long legs allow them to excel at jumping and their graceful ways of moving helps the breed to excel at most of the English disciplines such as equitation and dressage.

The Thoroughbred breed includes some of the most valuable animals in the world. In 1985 an untested yearling colt named Seattle Dancer was sold at auction for the record price of $13.1 million just on the basis of his pedigree.

The Thoroughbred pedigree dates back to the late 1600s and may be the oldest recorded pedigree for any animal population. One of the earliest formal registries was the General Stud Book for Thoroughbreds that began in 1791. It shows that the breed descended from a group of English-bred horses whose ancestry can be traced back to three foundation stallions: the Darley Arabian owned by Thomas Darley (1703); the Godolphin Arabian "Barb" owned by Lord Godolphin (1730); and the Byerly Turk owned by Captain Robert Byerly (1683). These three stallions were imported to England from North Africa and the Middle East around the turn of the 17th century and were bred to the strong, locally available native English mares.

The Jockey Club took over the General Stud Book in 1896 and is the official registry for Thoroughbreds. The JC manages one of the most sophisticated computer operations in the country for tracking race results world-wide. Its database holds the names of more than 1.8 million horses in a master pedigree file which trace back to the late 1800's.

According to the pedigree records, the overall foundation stock numbered only 80 horses, with 21 of those contributing a total 80% of the pedigree for modern Thoroughbred horses. Only 10 horses have contributed over 50% of the genes in the current generation of Thoroughbreds and four of those horses appear in the bloodlines of over 30% of modern Thoroughbreds. With such a small gene pool, genetic problems associated with inbreeding are generally expected. However, this does not appear to be the case in the Thoroughbred.

Now, as a result of three centuries of careful selection, Thoroughbred racehorses are the fastest horses in the world over distances of 1-1.75 miles. They have been bred to carry more than 1000 to 1300 pounds of their own body weight over extended distances, galloping at speeds of 35-40 miles per hour, yet still have the agility to respond to changes of pace or direction as dictated by the rider.

The gallop is the most natural gait for the Thoroughbred and the breed canters in a gallop called running. The feet move in a four-beat gait, and before the beat begins again, just for an instant, all four feet are off the ground and the horse is airborne for that single second before he begins the gait pattern again. Patience, training, and breeding can help instill pacing and trotting gaits, as well as other desirable motions.

Thoroughbreds are officially recognized in the colors of bay, black, chestnut, dark bay, dark brown, white, gray, roan, and palomino. The head should be proportional to the rest of the body, with a flat forehead and wide-set intelligent eyes. The head, which is carried relatively low, should sit well on a neck that is longer and lighter than in other breeds. The shoulder should be deep, well-muscled and sloped along the same parallel as that on which the head is carried. When seen from behind or from the front, the legs should be straight and move smoothly in unison through a single plane.

The Thoroughbred is one of the 5 "hot-blooded" horses in terms of temperament, which means they have more sensitivity and energy. But being high-strung gives the Thoroughbreds an edge that helps them compete successfully as race horses. Hot bloods have high intelligence that allows them to be athletic, versatile, and to learn quickly. They have agility and speed and are generally considered spirited and bold. They tend to have long legs and a slim build and are more physically refined than other breeds. Some pedigree lines of Thoroughbred are known to be temperamental, if not hot-headed, while others are equally known for their level-headedness.

All Thoroughbreds are given an official birthday of January 1st to keep the age groups easily defined for racing, regardless of the actual date of birth of the foal. They must be registered with the Jockey Club within a year of the actual birth date and must be DNA tested to prove their parentage. Additionally, a horse must be named by February of its 2-year-old year, but even that can be a challenge, since the owner must submit 6 names and it is the Jockey Club that will decide which name they can have.

In addition to DNA, "night-eyes": or "chestnuts", may be required for identification. These are horny, irregular growths that are found on the inside of a horse's legs. They are just above the knees on the front legs and they are near the rear of the hock on the rear legs. These chestnuts are like human fingerprints since no two horses have been found to have the same set of these growths. Additionally, since they do not change in size or shape throughout the life of an adult horse they are extremely useful in animal identification. The Jockey Club often asks for a set of night-eye photos to assist in the identification of horses that have no white markings or for identifying gray/roans.

An expert on biomechanics of the horse once noted that if there is a limit on the Thoroughbred's performance, it may be on the ability of the horse to remain sound in the face of the tremendous physical stresses of racing.

By Philip Wiskell

Philipe Wiskell is a writer for HorseClicks.com, popular horse classified website of horses for sale that includes a lot of Thoroughbred horses for sale.

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